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  #21  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
The bore is the hole in the center of the wheel. The spindle is what you bolt the wheel on to(basically the lug nuts and everything around it). The spindle is the piece that attaches to the control arms, it holds the brakes, etc.

So there is a round part on the spindle that sticks out a little, probably 1/4" to 1/2" on the spindle. This is to center the oem wheels perfectly. The oem wheels have an identical(well....slightly larger) bore/hole in the center of the wheels. So when you put the wheels on the bore in the wheel matches perfectly to that round piece on the spindle, and it is centered. Most likely, the bore on your aftermarket wheels is significantly larger than the round part on the spindle, which means it won't center based off of this. Aftermarket companies do this so their wheels fit multiple vehicles and they can sell more wheels.
AHHHHH okay. thanks for the clarification.
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  #22  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
The bore is the hole in the center of the wheel. The spindle is what you bolt the wheel on to(basically the lug nuts and everything around it). The spindle is the piece that attaches to the control arms, it holds the brakes, etc.

So there is a round part on the spindle that sticks out a little, probably 1/4" to 1/2" on the spindle. This is to center the oem wheels perfectly. The oem wheels have an identical(well....slightly larger) bore/hole in the center of the wheels. So when you put the wheels on the bore in the wheel matches perfectly to that round piece on the spindle, and it is centered. Most likely, the bore on your aftermarket wheels is significantly larger than the round part on the spindle, which means it won't center based off of this. Aftermarket companies do this so their wheels fit multiple vehicles and they can sell more wheels.

As a footnote to this, I'd like to add a couple of things about wheel balancing. These aftermarket designs are what's known as lug centered because the conter bore of the wheel doesn't contact the center of the hub the way a factory hub centered wheel does. Lug centered wheels are far more prone to radial runout (pitcure the wheel wobbling vertically as seen from the front) which causes vibrations that begin around 65-70 mph whereas lateral runout (side to side vibration as seen from the front) appears around 40-45 mph. Lug centered wheels really need to be balanced with a pin plate system but not all shops have this setup and many that have it don't use it because it's time consuming. Using pin plates along with a road force maching will yield the best ride quality.
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
As a footnote to this, I'd like to add a couple of things about wheel balancing. These aftermarket designs are what's known as lug centered because the conter bore of the wheel doesn't contact the center of the hub the way a factory hub centered wheel does. Lug centered wheels are far more prone to radial runout (pitcure the wheel wobbling vertically as seen from the front) which causes vibrations that begin around 65-70 mph whereas lateral runout (side to side vibration as seen from the front) appears around 40-45 mph. Lug centered wheels really need to be balanced with a pin plate system but not all shops have this setup and many that have it don't use it because it's time consuming. Using pin plates along with a road force maching will yield the best ride quality.
good info RamTech. hopefully I can find a good shop with a good wheel balance machine
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2013, 12:24 PM
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Just a thought on your alignment....Every time I put wider/chunkier tires on a verhicle, any tilt or variance in the road surface is felt in my steering wheel. Most highways tilt to the side for water run-off and make it feel like it's pulling slightly. Whenever I have lifted verhicles, the ride always gets rougher and feels completely different from stock. I still have to remind myself of that everytime I ride in my truck! Brakes? I have always replaced rotors with pads no matter what. jmho!
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  #25  
Old 01-16-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TVL View Post
Just a thought on your alignment....Every time I put wider/chunkier tires on a verhicle, any tilt or variance in the road surface is felt in my steering wheel. Most highways tilt to the side for water run-off and make it feel like it's pulling slightly. Whenever I have lifted verhicles, the ride always gets rougher and feels completely different from stock. I still have to remind myself of that everytime I ride in my truck! Brakes? I have always replaced rotors with pads no matter what. jmho!
Ya, i know what you mean about the road pulling...but my truck rides straight..no pulling. the only thing about the alignment part is my steerin wheel is off center by a degree or 2. just annoying while driving, hopefully they'll fix it. Ya it's my first time doin stuff like this to a truck so I'm not sure what's normal and what is not. but i'll learn soon enough!
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  #26  
Old 01-21-2013, 10:02 AM
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update:

took the truck to the tire place to have it road forced balanced. Dropped it off and the guy called me about 40 minutes later and said "so we don't want you to waste you money doing this balance because we want you to try this first. There is a lot of space in there, you need to call the place you bought these wheels from and get the [hub centric adapter thing-a-ma-bobs] so that you wheels will center up. If that doesn't work, bring it back it then we will check the balance.

I e-mailed rimzoneonline and asked if they had these and they said yes, to call and place the order. So i'll order those soon. In the mean time, I jacked the truck up and loosened everything and tightened them back up 100% while lifted per seans suggestion. Haven't driven it but 100 yards since then so Idk if it helped. will keep this updated
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  #27  
Old 01-21-2013, 12:59 PM
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FYI if they are talking about the rings that are supposed to center the wheel, I have read over and over that they do not work. Just a thought, I haven't actually used them. But I'd be more inclined to find a shop that has the adapter for the balancing machine(try a toyota dealer).
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  #28  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
FYI if they are talking about the rings that are supposed to center the wheel, I have read over and over that they do not work. Just a thought, I haven't actually used them. But I'd be more inclined to find a shop that has the adapter for the balancing machine(try a toyota dealer).
Oh....but what if the wheels are *perfectly* balanced and it's the fact they aren't centered that is causing the wobble.

so how would balancing it on that particular machine solve it?
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  #29  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:26 PM
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Well if the wheel bore is in fact not perfectly centered, then no matter what you do you will probably never have it perfect. Although you should be able to get it to where it is acceptable.

If you use the balancing machine with the hewika adapter(or whatever it is called) that centers the wheels based on the lug nuts then when you bolt it to the truck it is being centered around the same points that it was balanced around, so should be fairly good.

Even if you get those centering rings and then have it road force balanced there's a good chance it won't be right. This is because you will still be balancing the wheel about the center bore(which may not be the center of the wheel), then bolting the wheel to the truck which will be fighting the centering ring(I think the lugs will win the fight). So you'd still have a wheel that is balanced about the off-center bore, but bolted to the truck centered around the lugs. The balancing and the actual attachment won't match up.

I'd try to find a shop that has the balancer adapter, I think it was called hewika or something. Just google it, I read toyota dealers have it a lot of the time.
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  #30  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Well if the wheel bore is in fact not perfectly centered, then no matter what you do you will probably never have it perfect. Although you should be able to get it to where it is acceptable.

If you use the balancing machine with the hewika adapter(or whatever it is called) that centers the wheels based on the lug nuts then when you bolt it to the truck it is being centered around the same points that it was balanced around, so should be fairly good.

Even if you get those centering rings and then have it road force balanced there's a good chance it won't be right. This is because you will still be balancing the wheel about the center bore(which may not be the center of the wheel), then bolting the wheel to the truck which will be fighting the centering ring(I think the lugs will win the fight). So you'd still have a wheel that is balanced about the off-center bore, but bolted to the truck centered around the lugs. The balancing and the actual attachment won't match up.

I'd try to find a shop that has the balancer adapter, I think it was called hewika or something. Just google it, I read toyota dealers have it a lot of the time.
Ok, that makes sense. wow this is a pain I'm surprised I haven't seen any of the other guys on here running all these after market wheels/big tires and having the same issue. Oh well. I'll figure it out eventually. Thanks for your help
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