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  #1  
Old 01-16-2013, 08:59 AM
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Default Long read :( just reporting what I've been experiencing, any comments appreciated

So I'm not really asking a particular question, just consolidating the past couple things I've done to my truck and my experiences good/bad so far. I do have some things concerning me.

1. replaced front brake pads a month after i bought it because they were squeaking. Problem went away. Never came back, check. (didn't change the rotors however..mistake #1?)
2. A couple months later i got the shimmy when I was braking..figured...front rotors are done. Ok, changed those (mind you, back to problem one, I DID NOT CHANGE MY ROTORS AND PADS AT THE SAME TIME..i was warned this was probably where i went wrong) Shimmy felt like it went away the first night I drove it, but it didn't.
3. Drove around with the shaking because I was about to do front end work (bilsteins/wheels/tires) and I was going to do everything at the same time.
4. Installed bilsteins at max height, didn't do rotors/brakes yet. Noticed a little stiff ride but nothing crazy and mainly over bumps. side effect of maxed bilsteins...i'm okay with that.
5. Got the wheels/tires...did brand new pads/rotors along with them hoping to rid my awful brake shimmy.

So here is where I'm at now:

The brakes feel about 90% better, however...sometimes when I brake I feel like it's still doing it. is it in my head? no..my buddy feels it. Ok, so maybe the rear rotors are going. Does is have to do with my stiff suspension because it feels more like the front end itself shaking as opposed to just in the brake pedal and wheel like before. But it seems worse then when I first installed the bilsteins without the tires and all. With the new wheels/tires/bilsteins combined I do have to say my truck is riding pretty rough, even cruising on the highway. It bounces ever so slightly constantly. If I don't think about it, it's not so bad. But then I focus on it and it kind of drives me crazy, makes me doubt I could survive another 10 hr trip to FL in this truck. the truck IS aligned (although the steering with is off center a HAIR, gonna take it back to them under my 6month alignment warranty), the wheels have been torqued to spec (after maybe a week of driving without them torqued because I didn't have a torque wrench yet.

I'm just not sure if something is actually wrong/wearing out/needs replacement. Or it's just my sacrifice for adding the bilsteins and chunky ass tires. There are so many variables at this point. Any comments would be great. my mom tells me "should have left the damn truck the way it was!"
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Last edited by gonefishin776; 01-16-2013 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:14 AM
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I wouldn't be concerned with the brakes, I almost always change pads without changing rotors and never have issues(unless the rotors are in fact bad, in which I replace them later and no issues).
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
I wouldn't be concerned with the brakes, I almost always change pads without changing rotors and never have issues(unless the rotors are in fact bad, in which I replace them later and no issues).
multiple people told me (from my dad, to my neighbor, to the alignment shop) that adding new rotors to old pads can eff up the new rotors. Also improperly tightened lug nuts can put uneven pressure on the rotors causing them to warp quicker. But in 1 week quicker? I would hope not. It's almost like my braking is smooth, until the front end hits even the slightest bump, then it just shakes for the remainder of the "stop". If that makes sense.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:31 AM
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I dunno man I know people say that you should do that but I've found that as long as the pads are in ok condition it doesn't hurt the rotor. People always told me not to sand rotors either, but I do it and have no issues. I didn't want to spend $300 on a new rotor for my buell so I hit it with an orbital sander and the brake works so much better than before(it was glazed). I did that 2 years ago. I also never torque my lug nuts, but I do tighten evenly.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:52 AM
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OK, I know absolutely nothing about brakes... keeping that in mind here are my thoughts.

Your brakes are fine. You've replaced the components that could cause you issues.

I'm thinking that your shimmie has more do due with your maxed out shocks, they don't have anywhere to go, so they're sort of topping out, and not dampening the bumps the way you're used to.

Have you had your new wheels checked to make sure that the balance is correct on them? My '08 was terrible about the wheels getting out of balance. I had to have it done about every 3 or 4 months, especially the front. I went to several different tire shops, and they all agreed that the balance was out of spec, but none of them could tell my why...

Good luck and let us know what you find


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Old 01-16-2013, 09:55 AM
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Aftermarket wheels? What brand? Did you get them road force balanced? They are most likely lugcentric, not hubcentric like oem wheels, which makes it harder to center properly on the spindle.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excoastie View Post
OK, I know absolutely nothing about brakes... keeping that in mind here are my thoughts.

Your brakes are fine. You've replaced the components that could cause you issues.

I'm thinking that your shimmie has more do due with your maxed out shocks, they don't have anywhere to go, so they're sort of topping out, and not dampening the bumps the way you're used to.

Have you had your new wheels checked to make sure that the balance is correct on them? My '08 was terrible about the wheels getting out of balance. I had to have it done about every 3 or 4 months, especially the front. I went to several different tire shops, and they all agreed that the balance was out of spec, but none of them could tell my why...

Good luck and let us know what you find


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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Aftermarket wheels? What brand? Did you get them road force balanced? They are most likely lugcentric, not hubcentric like oem wheels, which makes it harder to center properly on the spindle.
They are aftermarket. I don't know why I over thought out of balance tires/wheels. I will look up a place with a road force balance and take them in. Thanks guys.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonefishin776 View Post
They are aftermarket. I don't know why I over thought out of balance tires/wheels. I will look up a place with a road force balance and take them in. Thanks guys.
Let us know how you come out
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonefishin776 View Post
multiple people told me (from my dad, to my neighbor, to the alignment shop) that adding new rotors to old pads can eff up the new rotors. Also improperly tightened lug nuts can put uneven pressure on the rotors causing them to warp quicker. But in 1 week quicker? I would hope not. It's almost like my braking is smooth, until the front end hits even the slightest bump, then it just shakes for the remainder of the "stop". If that makes sense.
This leads me to think you have a steering/suspension part that's defective. A braking vibration that's caused by a rotor runout, variation from parallel, or thickness variation won't come and go.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:15 AM
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Also, since the lug nuts center the wheels, the more sequences you take to tightening the lug nuts the better it will be. When I do mine (I have a similar issue...) I have the wheel completely off the ground, I put the lug nuts on and just finger tighten each one, then in a criss cross pattern tighten them in about 5-10 steps. This seems ridiculous and takes a little longer but it ensures the wheel ends up centered(or as close as it can get). Have someone hold the brake will you really tighten them(don't set it partially on the ground then tighten because it won't be centered with weight on it).

I've come to hate the issue I have with my wheels and am looking for a used set of 2013 17" oem wheels...

Even road force balancing may or may not fix it. I've had my wheels/tires balanced at least 6 times and finally got it to where it is bearable. One big problem is most shops balance with a cone in the center bore, but many aftermarket wheels the center bore isn't dead center(since it doesn't have to be since it doesn't center the wheel on the vehicle). So they balance it around the bore on the machine then you put it on the spindle and it's centered around the lugs instead of the bore. Some shops(I think toyota dealers) have an adapter for the balancer that uses the lugs not the center bore.
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Last edited by snrusnak; 01-16-2013 at 10:17 AM.
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