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  #1  
Old 01-22-2013, 08:13 PM
oreo oreo is offline
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Default Truck dies while hitting brakes but not all the time

Just as the title states my truck has been dieing while hitting the brakes or slowing down. But not all the time sometimes the idle just drops to around 400 then I give it some gas and it goes back up. Also when starting it goes directly to idle around 600-700 rpms and sometimes it idles up then slowly goes down like its suppose to. Temperature does not make a difference hot or cold. I have checked all the vacuum lines and check valve and all seem to be good. Now Im stumped and hopping someone can help. I will state the truck runs really rich at least to the point of smelling the fuel out of the exhaust no matter if its warmed up or not. My mods are as follows - Cat delete, Glasspack, and a stock replacement AMS-Oil air filter.
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2013, 09:19 PM
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Try cleaning out the throttle body and IAC motor. http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=46454
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
Try cleaning out the throttle body and IAC motor. http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=46454
May have to give that a try.......I cleaned the throttle body about 6 months ago though and it really wasn't that bad surprisingly
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:08 PM
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What codes is it setting? Try the key dance or take it to an autoparts dealer and have the codes read.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:52 PM
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I had a similar problem about 5 years ago with my truck and the Throttle Position Sensor fixed it.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:36 PM
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This is just for starters...

ENGINE STALLS OR
ROUGH IDLE
1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate
1. Remove throttle body and decarbon.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
2. Engine idle speed too low
2. Check Idle Air Control circuit. (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
INJECTION/IDLE AIR CONTROL
MOTOR - DESCRIPTION)
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs
3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING)
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor
4. Install new distributor rotor
5. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed
5. Check for correct firing order or
replace spark plug cables. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG CABLE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Faulty coil
6. Test and replace, if necessary (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL)
7. Intake manifold vacuum leak
7. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Last edited by Okiespaniels; 01-28-2013 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:40 PM
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Cleaned throttle body. Made no difference. I'm gonna start with some vacuum line replacement. Brake peddle is getting kinda soft like I'm losing vacuum.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:21 PM
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Usually when your vacum booster goes the brake pedal gets hard but there's no stopping effort.
Make sure your one way valve on your booster hasn't gone out.

Also, I would test the IAC wires for proper voltage and the IAC itself....I found this online and though it might help.

Tom wrote at 2008-11-16 2023
I recently had the same problem, every time I took my foot off the gas the RPMs would drop to 0 and then bounce back. If I was driving fast the car would keep running but at slow speeds it would stall, this normally only happened after the car had warmed slightly (the electronic choke was off). My first inclination was to check all vacuum lines for a leak that might be disturbing the air/gas ratio and leaning the mixture out too much. I conducted a visual inspection of all vacuum hoses and found one to be dry rotted (EGR) and another broken (cruise control), no wonder it no longer worked. I performed some simple routine maintenance, replace air filter, pcv and spray clean the throttle body, all to no avail. I repaired both the aforementioned vacuum hoses and still the problem persisted (cruise control works though). Next I began to trouble shoot with parts and the one most mentioned in blogs like this was the IAC (idle air control valve). I removed the old and other then being dirty there was nothing visibly wrong with it. I bought a new one anyway ($49) and installed it. To my chagrin the problem still persisted. Day two; now totally frustrated I decided to take it to the parts store and ask them to read if there were any codes, there weren't. While I was there I bought a $25 vacuum gauge. Once again I pulled the beast into the garage and surrendered to the idea that another day would be wasted. After having removed the air filter and hooked up under hood lighting I began testing manifold vacuum pressure. What I found was a steady 19Hg, even when I removed hoses from the manifold while testing the engine would compensate and the gauge would return to 19Hg, it wasn't until I plugged one of the disconnected holes at the manifold with my thumb, that the car stalled. This made me think that the problem wasn't too much air but not enough and the car was being choked off when the gas was released. I decided to remove the new IAC and reinstall (start over). My OTC repair manual suggested testing the IAC several different ways, voltage, key on engine off movement and increased idle when AC turned on. The new IAC passed the voltage test but failed the movement and increased idle test. It was getting to the point where I was going to start doing things that would hurt, like removing the IAC and starting the car, what a racket that made. I reviewed the instructions that came with the IAC and one paragraph stood out, the length of the plunger+shaft should not be more then 1 1/8" long, the one I held was extended 1 1/4". I screwed the plunger down, all the way down so that it was extended only 1". After I reinstalled it I performed voltage tests on the throttle position sensor and found it was OK. Time for a test drive, without replacing the air filter I took it out. VOILE, no more stalling The only thing I can figure is that either the IAC port hole was clogged and I unclogged it when I rant it uninstalled or the IAC plunger was too long. Both conditions must have been choking the engine off and causing it to stall when the throttle was closed suddenly.

Also I have seen two pots wherein the PCM was replaced. But I'm thinking you have a slow or non responding IAC valve. If it tests bad, buy a new one from the dealer.

Last edited by Okiespaniels; 02-02-2013 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:21 PM
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well i inspected all the vac lines and all are good with no cracks. Took the throttle body off apart, and cleaned it so good it looks new. Replaced the IAC valve since i had it off anyways old one looked pretty nasty. didnt get a chance to take it for a test drive but it did start up a little better today after all that. See how it does on the way to work tomorrow.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:29 PM
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well the truck did pretty good today. Think i solved some of the problem but the peddle still feels a little soft but a lot better than it has in a while. didnt want to die or drop on its face when i hit the brakes. I do have a rear brake cyl. i need to replace so i can bleed the brakes, the little valve is rusted and wont turn. Ill keep updates as i slowly fix stuff.
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