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Custom Dodge Ram Exterior Modifications - Body Mods - Body Kits All custom mods on the outside of your Dodge Ram. Custom Dodge Ram Body Kits, Custom Paint, Grilles, Camper Tops, Bed Liners, etc.


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  #1  
Old 05-19-2013, 05:44 PM
DrCrash DrCrash is offline
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Default Debadge /Plasti-dip / Weathertech Mud Flaps

I de-badged the tailgate and doors today. Took a lot longer than I had anticipated as the base adhesive backing was like cement. 1/2 a bottle of Goo Gone and a lot of rubbing. Probably a solid 3hrs to get everything off.

I also plasti-dipped the Ram on the tailgate but had to strip it after the photo was taken. I managed to peel off a little bit when I removed the tape and masking paper. I'll redo next weekend if the weather is nice. So I guess this doesn't really count as a mod just yet, maybe a mod-preview.

Lastly, I added the Weathertech Mud Flaps. Prior to attaching them I used 3M Paint Protectant Film anywhere the flap came in contact with paint. Without doing that the flaps would have been a 15 minute job. Custom fitting the film added 45 minutes to the job.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:28 PM
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06 BigHorn 06 BigHorn is offline
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Just debadge mine this weekend also. Took 45 minutes tops, if you pull the backing towards you it lifts right off & leaves nothing behind.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:12 PM
DrCrash DrCrash is offline
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[QUOTE=06 BigHorn;1102463]Just debadge mine this weekend also. Took 45 minutes tops, if you pull the backing towards you it lifts right off & leaves nothing behind.[/

The backing on the letters came off easy enough but it was the underlying adhesive residue that caused me a headache. I've use MEK to lift adhesive residue before but I didn't want to use it on the truck as I have no clue as to what it would do to the clearcoat.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:38 PM
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FWIW, buying an eraser wheel to attach to your drill is the best $10 investment I ever made. It's literally a big eraser that wont burn through clearcoat and it removes the adhesive from the paint at about 1 minute per side. Then just wipe away the little balls that collect like an eraser on a pencil would have and voila. I've debadged enough at this point to have saved countless hours and layers of skin on my thumb.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:40 PM
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and next time if you screw up the plasti dip, just spray right over the mistake with a couple touch ups and you won't know it was there. that's the best part of plasti dip, you don't have to start over, or repair the entire piece like it was paint.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:19 PM
DrCrash DrCrash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarichard View Post
FWIW, buying an eraser wheel to attach to your drill is the best $10 investment I ever made. It's literally a big eraser that wont burn through clearcoat and it removes the adhesive from the paint at about 1 minute per side. Then just wipe away the little balls that collect like an eraser on a pencil would have and voila. I've debadged enough at this point to have saved countless hours and layers of skin on my thumb.

Thanks for the tip on the eraser wheel. I could have used it this weekend and saved my thumbs. I'm pretty much done debadging the truck unless I remove the Hemi logo's (contemplating some custom ones instead of factory). I'll grab a wheel and put it in the tool kit for later.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:20 PM
DrCrash DrCrash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarichard View Post
and next time if you screw up the plasti dip, just spray right over the mistake with a couple touch ups and you won't know it was there. that's the best part of plasti dip, you don't have to start over, or repair the entire piece like it was paint.
It was my 1st foray into plasti-dip so I planned on a mistake or 2. I'll redo the tailgate this weekend.
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