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  #11  
Old 02-13-2013, 03:17 PM
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IMHO I guess it all depends on how you want your truck to look and what your satisfation level is. Each person has their own way of doing things and I can only recommend the way I do things and the results I get with the products I use. I'm sure that many other people have their own way of doing things and I believe they have every right to do anything to their vehicle they want. I believe that most people interested in "quality detailing" their vehicle will tell you that clay barring is an important step in the process.
I would strongly recommend that you NEVER EVER let a dealership touch your vehicles surface. Most(some exceptions) dealership "detailers" believe that steel wool and microfiber are the same thing. Trust me, they will do much more damage to your truck than they will do good. I buy all my detailing supplies from autogeek althought I've been told that some of the same supplies can be ordered from Amazon and E-bay. I try to stay away from some products you can buy at a big box store or parts store althought they carry some named brand products also.
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Last edited by Pull Ya; 02-13-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2013, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pull Ya View Post
I am suggesting that by clay barring your truck you will begin with a "clean" surface when you put your sealant and wax on. You will not be putting sealant/wax over the top of a "dirty" surface. It is a lengthy process the first time you do it, but after you have a good coat of sealant and wax on your truck, you can wash it maybe once a week, then use a spray detailer on it and you should be good for about 6 months. Check the surface and see if you have anything like tree sap or other contaminates on your truck and if not you can just wash and then reapply a sealant and wax after about 6 months. I can apply a sealant to my truck in about 1-2 hours. I then let it sit overnight(inside) and then apply the wax which takes about 1-2 hours. As I said the first time is the one that takes some time to complete all the steps, however I have found that a cold 6'er of Coors light makes the day go much better.
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:13 PM
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:06 PM
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Sounds easier to pay someone to do once a year or so. When I wash and wax my vehicles, even using two buckets and being liberal with rinsing, I always have more "swirl marks" than I started with. How do you keep this from happening?
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2013, 12:03 AM
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I think the first thing I would do is check your wash mits. I always use microfiber. Also make sure you have a grit guard in the bottom your your bucket. As you said rinse the surface well and keep plenty of water on the surface when you wash. Use a good polish to polish out the swril marks and then a good coat of sealant and then a good coat of wax. With that added protection you might find less swril marks when you wash your truck. It maybe eaiser to pay someone to detail your truck, but I would be very careful in picking a detailer, get references and look at some of their completed work and ask what products they use.
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2013, 08:35 AM
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Swirl marks come from using a rag that scratches the surface(use microfiber, like pull ya suggested), or rubbing a dirty surface when dry(leaning on the car, etc).
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2013, 08:16 AM
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i love the wolfgang paint sealant too...it is a great product. Optimum makes excellent products also, and they make the opti sela that snrusnak speaks of.

if you are looking for something permanent you can do yourself, look to Optimum Opti Coat 2.0. if you are looking to perfect the paint before applying a sealant, id take it one step further and go with the opti coat. it will not wear away and requires little maintenance...just do proper car washes by hand and avoid automated car washes.

all ive ever had to do on my opti coated surfaces is a deep cleaning when the water sheeting stops with Ironx.

here is just one of many opticoat videos...


here is a quick one i made comparing opticoat to WGDGPS.
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2013, 09:10 AM
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Just read about Opti-Coat 2.0 and it looks like some really good stuff. So with all these responses I think the steps I will take when I get the truck home from the dealer is the following:

1. Wash with dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Wash with automotive soap
4. Polish
5. Should there be a step here?
6. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0
7. Do I still apply sealant?

Sound like a good plan of attack?

From what I read for Opti-Coat 2.0 I don't need sealant, or would you apply sealant on top of the opti-coat?

I am a believer that if you are using multiple products they should be the same brand. With that being said this is what I am thinking:

Automotive Soap: Optimum Car Wash. (Has anyone tried the Optimum No-Rinse Wash and Shine? Any good?)
Polish: Optimum Poli-Seal
Sealant/Wax: Opti-Coat 2.0

Primo, I see you live in southern ontario, I live an hour east of toronto. Where do you get your products from?

I quickly found this site: http://www.eshine.ca
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2013, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvaMyTrucka View Post
Just read about Opti-Coat 2.0 and it looks like some really good stuff. So with all these responses I think the steps I will take when I get the truck home from the dealer is the following:

1. Wash with dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Wash with automotive soap
4. Polish
5. Should there be a step here?
6. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0
7. Do I still apply sealant?

Sound like a good plan of attack?

From what I read for Opti-Coat 2.0 I don't need sealant, or would you apply sealant on top of the opti-coat?

I am a believer that if you are using multiple products they should be the same brand. With that being said this is what I am thinking:

Automotive Soap: Optimum Car Wash. (Has anyone tried the Optimum No-Rinse Wash and Shine? Any good?)
Polish: Optimum Poli-Seal
Sealant/Wax: Opti-Coat 2.0

Primo, I see you live in southern ontario, I live an hour east of toronto. Where do you get your products from?

I quickly found this site: http://www.eshine.ca
Hey ILuvaMyTrucka...ill PM you where i get my stuff...

as for your process, ill add a tweak or two, but your on the right track.

1. Wash with dawn soap
this is a good step...ill also add that a good wash prep soap is Chemical Guys citrus wash and clear...but i would also recommend that you use CarPro Iron X here. it will really speed up the clay process by chemically removing bonded contaminants and prevent digging some of these particles into the clear when you clay.

2. Clay bar
A must do IMO. if your not using clay, one of the clay alternatives is pretty good too...like the speedy prep towel. you mentioned Optimum No Rinse wash and shine (ONR). Not only is this an excellent soap, it is also dilutable for clay lube. buy this product and it has many many uses...you cant go wrong with anything Optimum.

3. Wash with automotive soap
not sure you will need this step. i never wash after my clay. if there is any residue that needs clenaing, i use ONR mixed at a Quick Detailer ration and wipe over the car.

4. Polish
This is a must IMO after claying and a DEFINITE must if you choose Opti Coat. If you paint is bad, you may even have to step to a compound here before polish...The paint must be spotless to ensure good adhesion as well as whatever is left on the paint is sealed under the Opti Coat (OC).
I would definitely recommend Optimum Hyper Compound and Optimum Hyper Polish...they work well and are chemically synergistic...meaning they are made to work together. All you will need after your polish step is a wipe sown with a damp microfibre, or if you want, a wipe with ONR to prep for OC.


5. Should there be a step here?
Nothing here unless you arent using Optimum polishes. If you using something else you have on hand (which is fine by the way), id recommend an Eraser wipe down..Eraser is another great product...basically IPA, but with added lubricants so you wont scratch the heck out of what you just did.


6. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0
Yes

7. Do I still apply sealant?

I recommend no...OC is your Last Step Product (LSP). You can add toppers to OC, but it will change the hydrophobic quality of the OC. Also whatever you put on the OC wont stick and will be gone in a few days or weeks...youll be throwing money out the window.

If you feel you must really use something on it, id recommend Optimum Instant Detailer or Optimums newest version of ONR which contains carnuaba wax.
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:48 PM
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Great points.

One augmentation may be that OC2.0 needs to be applied in a very precise manor. It is quite finicky in certain weather conditions and if it is not applied correctly, it will need to be removed via machine polishing. I may look into a different sealant because of that. Not saying you cannot do OC, but it is darn permanent. I would look into some of the newer "semi-permanent" sealants on the market. Starting with Wolfs Hard Body or Body Wrap, but there are a ton of ceramic coatings and other nano coatings that will last 1 year, if not 2.

http://www.autogeek.net/dodo-juice-n...t-sealant.html

http://www.autogeek.net/gtechniq-c1-silo-seal.html

http://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-paint-sealant.html

http://www.autogeek.net/permanon-platinum-coating.html

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Nano-Coating_c_196.html

etc, etc...
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