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Oil Change Ready to change the oil in your Dodge Ram? Engine -Trans - Differential - Transfer Case


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  #101  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Asur View Post
I say Asur should be prohibited from posting anymore links, henceforth... my eyes are going buggy, my brain is on overload and I no longer have time to read my regular material.
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  #102  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:54 AM
Asur Asur is offline
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Lmao, ok here's is a link that may also help...

http............................

Hey, how come my link wont post
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  #103  
Old 03-21-2013, 10:31 AM
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Lmao, ok here's is a link that may also help...

http............................

Hey, how come my link wont post
Funny! A good sense of humor.
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  #104  
Old 03-21-2013, 10:34 AM
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So what happens when someone wants to use a quart of Lucas in their oil change lol
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  #105  
Old 03-21-2013, 10:57 AM
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So what happens when someone wants to use a quart of Lucas in their oil change lol
Good Question, here's something to read about that.

http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

Here is an exert from that article:

A Ford Engineer contacts carbibles.com about additives

In 2006 I was contacted by a Ford engineer who has worked for them for 24 years. These views do not necessarily represent Ford, but it makes an interesting read nevertheless.
Some of the things in your site are true like the pure baloney that additive companies put out. I have been with Ford for 24 years in research and development for their power train division. I have forgotten more lube problems than 90% of so-called mechanics will ever know. I like the way some mechanics make statements like they're some sort of God without being able to back them up. All that mallarkey in some of the feedback above claiming 800,000 miles on a gas engine are laughable. There is so much that goes into producing engine oil that dumping "magic" additives into it is just criminal. The quality of most addatives is questionable at best. Whilst the names may be similar, the quality is not. Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.
What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products. This is especially true for automatic transmissions. DO NOT USE SOMETHING OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED BY THE CAR MAKER FOR YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.
Nothing in your site mentions surface finish of the journals, cylinder walls, lobing of the crank journals, or a whole host of mechanical reasons for engine life or engine early death regardless of what oil you use. Nobody has mentioned how wear is affected by hotrodding the vehicle. I can ruin any engine and oil combination that you want to give me in a few hours or less. I can wreck a transmission in 15 minutes.
What about user abuse and manufacturing defects? Grinding a crankshaft in the wrong direction of rotation will eat up the bearings in 5 to 10 minutes. Quality control during manufacturing is the key to long engine life along with following oil- and filter-change intervals as laid out by the manufacturer in your handbook that comes with the car (that nobody reads).
From Ford's perspective, they test Mobil way more than other brand. I pushed using Mobil synthetics for transmission use to eliminate low speed hot oil low pressure and the opposite problem of high speed high pressure and cold oil drag at any speed. More power is lost from pumping torque than from bearing and piston drag. Trying to keep oil pressure up to spec when hot requires a larger pump and more R.P.M. and when things are cold the pump has very high torque and most of the oil flow is going thru the pressure relief valve back into the oil pan. Wasted horsepower; it lowers gas mileage by 20 to 30%
If it takes only 12 to 15 horsepower to move the average car 60mph. and the engine plus the transmission are using 2 to 3 extra horsepower each due to high oil drag (being too thick) you can see how the C.A.F.E. ratings would not be favorable for Ford if we did not use synthetics. Engines on new Fords come with semi-synthetics and the dealerships only use this oil. Full synthetics are still better but cost more.
Conclusion: Read, learn, and use your brain.

Last edited by Asur; 03-21-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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  #106  
Old 03-21-2013, 11:59 AM
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Good article... putting the additives affectiveness aside, what about if you added Lucas would that then increase your overall weight of your oil? That stuff is thick!
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  #107  
Old 03-21-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tradesman12 View Post
Good article... putting the additives affectiveness aside, what about if you added Lucas would that then increase your overall weight of your oil? That stuff is thick!

Maybe this can shed some light

http://web.archive.org/web/201001060...ucas/lucas.htm

Here is a bit more info also: Taken from an Amsoil Dealer website:

Yes, but what about Lucas Oil Stabilizer?

Isn't it used extensively in drag racing? Yes it is, and it's a unique category in oil additives with a milder version of deception. With high-alcohol fuels and high horsepower, there is a huge problem with the engine oil becoming rapidly diluted (thinned out) by the alcohol. To combat this problem, drag racers commonly use a very heavy racing oil (like 60 weight), then add Lucas to the oil because it increases the viscosity even more. That way, as the oil is being rapidly diluted going down the dragstrip, when they back off the throttle it might be a 30 or 40 weight oil instead of a 10 or 20 weight oil that would allow a lot of engine damage.
Now, what does ANY of that have to do with your vehicle? NOTHING ! Adding their product to your oil will increase the weight (viscosity) of your engine oil, which will decrease your fuel economy and increase your oil pressure. Increasing the oil pressure beyond the 30 or 40 weight that the engine's designed for doesn't help you. In fact, it's a negative because it adds load to your starter and battery, especially in cold weather, and it makes your engine wear faster. That's right - your engine wears faster for two main reasons: because during cold starts it takes longer to get the oil to all the components, and the higher oil pressure drop across your oil filter means that more of the oil will bypass the filter than normally occurs while your engine is warming up during driving. So you're pumping additional wear particles through the engine rather than filtering them out.
The deception is that they want you to assume that what's good in a top-fuel dragster is good for your engine, without actually making that claim on their bottle.
Lubrication engineers say: Motor oils, transmission fluids and gear lubes are carefully designed and balanced lubrication packages that are scientifically formulated and rigorously tested. Want better performance? Buy a better product whose performance is proven by industry standardized testing. Please DON'T be fooled by oil additives!

Complete article http://www.ultimatesyntheticoil.com/..._additives.htm

Last edited by Asur; 03-21-2013 at 12:58 PM.
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  #108  
Old 03-21-2013, 04:20 PM
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Why not mix 5w-20 and 5w-30 in equal ratios and same brand and have 5w-25? I've read a few threads on this. Seems to work great. Just an option, perhaps?
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  #109  
Old 03-21-2013, 04:48 PM
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Why not mix 5w-20 and 5w-30 in equal ratios and same brand and have 5w-25? I've read a few threads on this. Seems to work great. Just an option, perhaps?
I thought it was a definite no-no to mix viscosities.
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  #110  
Old 03-21-2013, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Asur View Post
I then did a google search on "5W-20 oil and Engine Longevity" And wow lots of stuff posted up.
I don't know about longevity but I know on my '08 4.7 it would rattle and knock every morning when I started it up with 5w20, I don't notice that with my '12 5.7 2500.

I agree with you things built many years ago seem to last much longer than current issue.
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