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  #1  
Old 03-14-2013, 06:51 PM
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Default Bleeding Brakes Problem

So here is what I have redone/replaced on my truck in the last month. (2004 Dodge Ram 1500 / Quad Cab / 4.7 / 4X2 / 6 ft. bed) Both side tie rod ends, both side rotors, both side hub assmebly, both side brake pads, both side calipers, and the rack an pinion. Next to follow is an alignment.

This is problem now. I did the calipers on both sides very last. After putting the new brake pads in the new calipers I rehooked the brake lines and pumped the brakes til it was a steady stream of fluid came out of the bleeder valve. After driving the truck, it now takes 3 to 4 pumps to get the brakes to start working normally (while driving). Yeah, I know right... and this is not just a one time thing. It does it every single time I push the brakes.

Please help! Any ideas on what to do to fix it? Just so everyone knows, I am really trying to do all the work on my truck myself so taking it to a shop will be a last resort. Thanks to all who can help.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankGod78 View Post
So here is what I have redone/replaced on my truck in the last month. (2004 Dodge Ram 1500 / Quad Cab / 4.7 / 4X2 / 6 ft. bed) Both side tie rod ends, both side rotors, both side hub assmebly, both side brake pads, both side calipers, and the rack an pinion. Next to follow is an alignment.

This is problem now. I did the calipers on both sides very last. After putting the new brake pads in the new calipers I rehooked the brake lines and pumped the brakes til it was a steady stream of fluid came out of the bleeder valve. After driving the truck, it now takes 3 to 4 pumps to get the brakes to start working normally (while driving). Yeah, I know right... and this is not just a one time thing. It does it every single time I push the brakes.

Please help! Any ideas on what to do to fix it? Just so everyone knows, I am really trying to do all the work on my truck myself so taking it to a shop will be a last resort. Thanks to all who can help.
Sounds to me like you still have an air pocket somewhere in the brake system. I'd try re-bleeding them all again. Remember, start with the one furthest away from the master cylinder and move to the closest.

Also, regarding your technique of bleeding (how you described it is a little unclear)... Did you just open the bleed screws and then pump the brakes until a steady stream of fluid came out? Because if so, that's not right... You need to have someone inside the truck pump them up a few times to build up pressure, open the bleed screw to let the pressure out, close the bleed screw, and then have the person inside release their foot off the brake.

I've also seen people install the calipers on the wrong side with the bleed screw at the bottom.... air rises, they need to be at the top.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:29 PM
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Oh wow, really, lol??? Yes I did everything you said that was "INCORRECT". I just pumped the brakes til a steady stream of fluid came out and put my calipers on the wrong side. I put the bleeder valve on bottom. Ok well I am going in my garage and getting to work, lol. Thanks so much. I will update you when completed.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:26 PM
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Another thing, if you have ABS braking system, you also need to bleed that system
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:57 PM
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Also make sure you're filling up the master cylinder as you go. If you let it get empty you'll have to start over.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
Another thing, if you have ABS braking system, you also need to bleed that system
You will need access to a DRBIII or have to take it to a dealer to bleed the ABS pump.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:32 PM
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Well the I have rear ABS not front and I did not let the master cylinder go empty. I had my son help to make sure of that. So what you said in the very begining Brandon Jansen worked perfectly. I switched the calipers sides so that the bleeder valve was on top because air rises, lol. Then bleed the side furthest away from the booster first, then had my son pump the brakes til it was hard to press, had him hold it down then closed the bleeder valve, then let off the brakes, then did the other side the same way. I di all that in 45 mins to include taking off the front tires and putting them back on

Took it for test drive and I could tell right away that it worked. Thanks you so much for your help.

And I dont even know what a DRBIII is HemiLonestar, lol.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:35 PM
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BTW, GTyankee I use to live in San Diego County as well. Palm City (off palm ave). About 10 north of TJ, lol. I use to work at the NASSCO shipyard right across from the NAVY base. Thanks for all you help
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:17 AM
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I deliver or i should say Escort Oversize Loads to NASSCO quite often
General Dynamics moved to Mexicali Mexico & they make the ships parts down there now & they have to be transported to NASSCO near 28th street
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankGod78 View Post
Well the I have rear ABS not front and I did not let the master cylinder go empty. I had my son help to make sure of that. So what you said in the very begining Brandon Jansen worked perfectly. I switched the calipers sides so that the bleeder valve was on top because air rises, lol. Then bleed the side furthest away from the booster first, then had my son pump the brakes til it was hard to press, had him hold it down then closed the bleeder valve, then let off the brakes, then did the other side the same way. I di all that in 45 mins to include taking off the front tires and putting them back on

Took it for test drive and I could tell right away that it worked. Thanks you so much for your help.

And I dont even know what a DRBIII is HemiLonestar, lol.
Glad you got it all working again. Let me know if you ever have questions about other maintenance things. I'll try to help you out to the best of my ability.
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EST 500 hp/1268 ft-lbs at FW | H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | S&B Intake w/ Scoop
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