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  #1  
Old 12-23-2013, 05:31 PM
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AaronR84 AaronR84 is offline
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Default HELP!!! truck starting issues

1984 d150 360 cid swb

starts ok when cold but wont start after its up to operating temp?!?!
new icm, balast resistor, plugs, wires, coil. rotor and dist are clean and fine no cracks, timing isnt perfect but it starts when cold or after engine cools down for 10-20 min. had a battery issue and replaced it with a duralast gold 1000 cca and made an oops, hooked it up backwards at first and then battery wouldnt charge so i replaced alt but still acting like it doesnt charge. carb is a holley aluminum street avenger 670 cfm 4bbl w/4-corner idle (i hate it) front float got a hole in it somehow so i replaced that and now the rear float isnt working and it fills the bowl and allows fuel to drip from the rear jets so i detached the rear fuel line and plugged it off and thats fixed that but i just cant figure out the starting issue, starts ok cold and warms up and drives good but as soon as i shut her off to get gas or anything she wont start again till she's cooled down(10-20 min) and sometimes not for hrs. ive insulated the fuel line thinking its flashing but no dice, im wondering if the water temp sensor has crapped out from the several overheats she's had and is sending an overheat signal to the icm? idk i need some help with this ppl.

HELP ME!!!
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  #2  
Old 12-23-2013, 06:47 PM
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did you try holding it to the floor to start hot? or if that doesn't work pumping a lot?
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:54 PM
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I'd suspect the (magnetic) reluctor pick-up in the dist (later named the Hall effect)
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:08 PM
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yep thats the only wy it starts fte its wrmed up.....and lots of cranking

how do i fix the hall effect?
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:18 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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It's inside the distriburtor under the Rotor and should look like this:



or this:



I'm pretty sure they go for around $20.00

If you do happen to change it and it makes a difference, please post-up for some rep points with the problem solved.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:51 PM
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will do warlock and tyvm
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:52 PM
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any other ideas?
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:38 PM
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well.....no luck with twisting the dist. is there any way to fix the reluctor myself?

after starting it and killing it at different points as it warmed up i noticed that the warmer it got the less it wanted to start. at first it would start again after just pumping it a few times then as it fully warmed up it didnt matter how long i held the pedal in or how much i pumped it, it just wouldnt fire off again this is really maddening bc its my only running vehicle and i have to have it
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Old 12-24-2013, 05:19 PM
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ok heres an update.....

i went thru and cleaned the dist with contact cleaner and made sure everything was all shiney and dry before i put the cap back on and still no restart when warm GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:42 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronR84 View Post
well.....no luck with twisting the dist. is there any way to fix the reluctor myself?

after starting it and killing it at different points as it warmed up i noticed that the warmer it got the less it wanted to start. at first it would start again after just pumping it a few times then as it fully warmed up it didnt matter how long i held the pedal in or how much i pumped it, it just wouldnt fire off again this is really maddening bc its my only running vehicle and i have to have it
Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronR84 View Post
ok heres an update.....

i went thru and cleaned the dist with contact cleaner and made sure everything was all shiney and dry before i put the cap back on and still no restart when warm GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!
The reluctor isn't all that difficult. It's just held in by 2 screws in the bottom of the dist. I'm pretty sure that it is your problem. You can try a junkyard dist for $50.00 or so...or:

Remove the dist cap, remove the rotor, and get a look down in there at the reluctor. If you remove the two screws and unplug it where it comes out of the dist (about a foot away from the dist) It can usually be fenagled off the dist without pulling it out of the truck. (The gear will slide up with some gentle pressure and is keyed to only go in one position)



It shouldn't take very long.

Here's a good piece from Mopar Muscle Magazine. All you need to know and more. All you need to be concerned with are the first 3 pictures.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t.../photo_02.html

Last edited by ShawnC13; 12-24-2013 at 10:10 PM.
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