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  #11  
Old 04-25-2013, 05:54 PM
crazzywolfie crazzywolfie is offline
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if it was carbed and had a ballast resister then someone converted it to carb. 88-91 239's and 318's came from the factory with TBI. 89-92 360's came from the factory with TBI. anything older was carbed and anything newer was multi port injected.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:32 PM
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Granted, and point made.

However I have been employed in the scrap/recycling business for about 30 years and have seen some interesting solutions, modifications, fits and retro-fits.

That being said I would like to ask the OP:

Are you the original owner?
Is this an '88 were talking about?
What is the production date?
Is it a spark issue or a fuel issue?
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:53 PM
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I had already looked into that one, no luck lol. I've got some parts ready to go, I'm just waiting until the weekend gets here to get started. Hopefully I'll have it running by sunday night
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:58 PM
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I'm the third owner, it is definitely an 88. Almost positive it is a spark issue, I'm not getting a thing off the plugs. I will be more sure once saturday comes around and I have time to get a full grasp of the situation.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:46 PM
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can you hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple seconds when you turn the key on?
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:18 AM
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I replaced the ignition pickup and fuel pump relay tonight, cleaned up the plugs on my ecm. It now starts and runs, but once the booster is disconnected, it dies immediately. Im thinking my alternator will need replacing, but Im told there may be a better alternator available that I could get, instead of just replacing with the same thing Ive got. Ideas and opinions?
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:23 AM
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Could be the computer. The regulator is built into the computer. The computer will still operate the vehicle even when the regulator is burned out as long as power is available (in your case with the booster). Get the alternator and battery checked. If the reg is dead, the battery can't charge, and none of the alt power is available. Try the key on-off method to pull codes. The saying goes....."Dead computers tell no tales." meaning, it will give no codes of any kind. If the regulator is toast you either replace the computer or do a work-around with an external regulator.

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Old 04-27-2013, 10:18 AM
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i would check what the voltage at the alternator is with the truck running and then check voltage at the battery. they should be the same. could possibly have a bad fusible link which would prevent you battery from charging.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:54 PM
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AFTER considering the previous posts, and IF you do determine that it's the regulator (inside the computer/ECM)...

As stated above you can get another ECM, Any of the D series will work as well as the B series Dodges of the same year. 5.2 or 5.9. (Or use an external regulator)

How do I know? Because I've interchanged them quite a few times.

Point being, I couldn't find one for my 90 Ramcharger (5.2) and wound up grinding off the lower bolt hole on a GM alternator (because it was tooo wide to fit in the Dodge) and swapped the pullys. Hooked up the main terminal from the Dodge to the main on the back of the GM, and single fielded the GM by putting a jumper from one prong to the other prong on the 2 pin/spade plug on the GM. It has an internal regulator and my Ramcharger ran that way just fine for WELL over a year without a charging problem. (tape off the other 2 small eyeley connections on the Dodge harness).

Then on the off chance one day a B 250, 5.9 came in. The computer at work (Hollander and Pinnacle) both said it wouldn't work. Installed the B 250 5.9 ECM and put the dodge alternator back on (5 minutes to undo the GM) and drove it without a problem for about 3 more years.

Using that information I must have sold 15-20 Dodge ECMs that way using the interchange as I had realized would work, and NOT ONE was ever returned because it was the wrong one.

As I said originally: AFTER ruling out what was previously suggested. Because really, I'm not trying to cross streams here. Just my experience. Merely a suggestion.
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  #20  
Old 04-28-2013, 03:05 AM
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I gavemy battery a good charging, as it was completely dead, and it ran beautifully (as beautifully as it can, for now) for quite some time. I tried measureing power outputs, but my meter fried, so I'll see if she starts up in the morning and grab a new meter to get everything checked. I will keep that info in mind should I find that the alternator is an issue. THANK YOU everyone who has helped me through this so far, it is much appreciated.
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