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  #1  
Old 05-01-2013, 12:04 AM
studda studda is offline
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Default 2001 5.9 Ram Computer Fried?

First off, sorry for the long thread but this truck is very unique in its habits.

I have a 2001 Ram with a 5.9 with only 77k miles. It has a pretty bad hesitant chugging almost all of the time. It will completely cut out and I have found if I put it to the floor, it will take off sometimes. Other times, it will just cut out completely and all I can do is go 25 mph while there is a huuuuuge line of cars behind me probably using every curse word in the book and hoping I would get out of their way. The best way I can describe the sound of the motor when it's cutting out is:

Whaah....................bah...........pow........ ...bah........pow pow.........bah......

This will only stop when I let off the gas and keep it about 1500 rpm or put it to the floor(sometimes, the only option is to let off the gas or the motor will pop, sputter, and fall on its face and the speedometer drops steadily).

I have already changed the TPS, distributor cap, rotor, stator, distributor gear, coil, plugs, and plug wires. I checked fuel pressure at the rail and it was ~50# so I can rule out clogged filter sock or fuel pump. The weird thing is that I can get in and drive it and it runs fine sometimes. I can literally turn the key off and right back on and it runs terrible. I have reset the computer and it ran fine a couple times. I have done this countless times though. Is the computer fried? I can't think of anything that would cycle like that with the turn of the key or the resetting of the computer. I have not changed the MAP or IAC. Any help would be greatly appreciated at this point.

Last edited by studda; 05-01-2013 at 12:08 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2013, 11:08 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Put that gauge on the fuel rail and stick it beneath your wiper, and drive around til it becomes a bad actor, I believe you have a case of intermittant fuel pump. My 95 did that and I shotgunned parts into that thing til my wallet shed tears. (and yeah, I had great fuel pressure... most of the time, apparently) Put the gauge on, believe me. Mine specialized in being a bad actor about 500' after a stop sign, and halfway up a hill, after having just going down one. on restart, it ran for a moment like it was flooding.. (this of course, being the ecu realigning with having fuel pressure to work with, again.) no, NO variations in pressure allowed, no glitches, period. Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2013, 11:47 AM
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ninjalogic ninjalogic is offline
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I would check to see if the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to be changed or the Camshaft Position sensor
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:59 PM
MACKEYAUTOREPAIR MACKEYAUTOREPAIR is offline
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Gonna go with trash can on this one, this is probably one where you arent getting enough fuel VOLUME, even though pressure is fine. there is a test for that, you tap into the fuel system and run the pump with the engine off, and it's a certain number of ounces in 30 seconds. I could get the numbers if you need.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:41 PM
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hardcableman hardcableman is offline
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if it backfires then chances are the catalytic converter could be clogged or partly clogged. remove the o2 sensor take it out from the exhaust n take it for a spin n see if it helps . its gonna be loud but still able to drive it
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:14 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Not as unique as you think.

Actually mine was doing the same thing and that's what ultimately led me to this site.

If I K3 the comp to check the codes it'll do it right now.

Reset the comp...(unhook the battery and cycle the key once to power everything down, and rehook the battery) and it runs awesome. However if I K3 it, have to reset the comp.

(I did pull the fuel rail and cleaned it out as well as the injectors and that seemed to help a lot. changed the fuel rail and injectors with the truck as described below and it seemed to help overall performance)

But to this day I can't K3 it.

One came into work and it ran fine. It was scrapped because it looked like Godzilla had two of 'em and was playing with 'em. Swapped the ECM out and it did the exact same thing. So changing the computer didn't help and I went back to the original and saved the second one as a spare.

Last edited by Warlock III; 05-04-2013 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:17 PM
studda studda is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock III View Post
If I K3 the comp to check the codes it'll do it right now.
Sorry, but what does K3 mean?

Also, to update, I have figured out that if I drive it out of the driveway, shut it off, then reset the computer, it runs fine almost every time. I thought about putting a disconnect on the battery to make it easier than popping the hood, at least until I figure out exactly what it is.

Last edited by studda; 05-04-2013 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:20 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Turn the key 3 times real quick without starting the truck. On the third one stop and leave it in the run position. The check engine will flash the codes and stop when it flashes five and five (55) to signal the test is complete.

I see ur on the topic so Im heading to chat

Hardcableman does have a point, but an 02 sensor should throw a 21 I think

Last edited by Warlock III; 05-04-2013 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:52 PM
studda studda is offline
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I got kicked out of chat. Anyway Warlock, thanks for the help. I'll let you know if the IAC fixed the problem.

BTW: IAC was $27.50 Shipped

Last edited by studda; 05-04-2013 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:56 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Quote:
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I got kicked out of chat. Anyway Warlock, thanks for the help. I'll let you know if the IAC fixed the problem.
No problem PM me if you need to pick my brain
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