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Heating & Cooling 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 01-20-2017, 12:46 PM
Chrisredel Chrisredel is offline
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Default 2007 1500 4.7 no heat

Hi guys, this is my boss's truck. 150k temp gage good, no coolant loss. Took it to a local garage, flushed it but no heat. Took it to Chrysler garage. They did t-Stat & water pump, nothing. Complete heater core and hvac box, nothing. Another water pump. Then new blend doors on the new hvac box. Then radiator. Then said bad cylinder, pulled heads and found everything good. Trying another radiator today. They have had truck for 5 weeks and it is a much needed work truck. Anybody have any thoughts??

Thanks much
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Old 01-23-2017, 01:48 PM
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300m 300m is offline
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Stunning....absolutely stunning!!!! I've read your post numerous times thinking I've missed something, but I haven't. I just can't believe they did all that work, and most of it for nothing. Sounds like "shooting in the dark".
Here's how I see this:
1:The engine generates heat when running, no doubt about that.
2: When the temp. is high enough, the thermostat opens.
3: Now, the coolant travels through the radiator, with the help of the water pump.
4: If your temp. gauge is indicating in the normal range, it means the thermostat, the rad. and the pump are OK.
5: The water pump (water circulator) circulates water all the time throughout the engine, the heater hoses, the heater, and then the radiator once the thermostat has opened. Even if the thermostat is stuck open, you'll still get some heat specially when the truck is not moving, and the truck is not moving when you're testing.

You can test the rad. for hot water, by touching , or with the cap off.
While the cap is off, give it a shot of throttle; when the thermostat has opened, the coolant will rush out of the rad, proving the pump is working.
Replacing the rad. because of no heat, is pure nonsense: the rad. is either clean or plugged up; if it's plugged up, the engine will overheat, and you'll know that quickly.
You said the temp. gauge is good, I'm assuming you mean it's reading properly...if that's the case, the rad. is fine.
Assuming for a second, the thermostat is wide open, then the engine would run cooler than normal, meaning the rad. is doing a fine job, (too good a job!) You don't replace the rad. for doing a good job.
You said "no coolant loss", so how can a bad cylinder cause a "no heat"???? Makes no sense.
Your problem is with the "heating" system: the hoses, the heater core, the other components (blend doors etc.)
Here' what I would have done before going to Chrysler and paying money.
1: with the engine warmed up, see if the heater hoses are hot; if they are both hot, it means the coolant is flowing fine through the hoses and the heater core; if only one is hot, you could have: a blocked hose, or a blocked core, or a pinched hose. If you have a cold hose, disconnect it from the core, and see if the coolant is coming out of the core; good flow out of the core means a good core. Now you're looking at a "no flow" hose; make sure the hoses are running without a kink...or a pinch; if ok, it may be blocked.
I've seen blocked hoses or steel pipes blocked or almost, with rust, on older vehicles.
If all this checks out, you may be left with a large air bubble or bubbles in the system; bleeding is best done with the engine running at operating temp., the rad. cap off, and engine speed up from idle; air bubbles can be difficult to get rid of, and can be tiny also; if you can run the truck up on the front wheels to insure the rad. cap is at the highest point.
Be patient; it can take a few minutes of bleeding to air it out...

What I'm saying is that the rad., the heater core, the thermostat, the water pump, the heater hoses can all be tested in your driveway with the engine running, all in less than 30 min., and at no costs, without replacing anything until you're certain of the faulty part. What you're left with after bleeding, is the blend doors and it's controls; that's when I'd go to the dealer may be...

Good luck
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Old 01-28-2017, 03:11 PM
Chrisredel Chrisredel is offline
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Update. Surprise the 2nd radiator did nothing also. I asked them if they properly bled the air out with the front end raised, they said no. They are not admitting to an air lock, but it now has heat with no other parts being installed. Waiting for general manager to return to discuss the bill which he will not be oaying.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisredel View Post
Update. Surprise the 2nd radiator did nothing also. I asked them if they properly bled the air out with the front end raised, they said no. They are not admitting to an air lock, but it now has heat with no other parts being installed. Waiting for general manager to return to discuss the bill which he will not be oaying.
A radiator is designed to cool the coolant; if the engine is cool or cooler than normal, the rad. is doing a great job. When a rad. is not working properly, it can only cause higher than normal engine temp., right up to overheating. Of course, if its low on coolant, or the rad. hoses are collapsed, or the pump is not working, or the thermostat is closed, that`s no fault of the rad, but the results of that is higher temp., not lower.`

Troubleshooting a `no heat`, should be simple to a dealer; it only requires elemination of different components by simple testing.
Like I said before, all these parts they replaced could have been tested first in no time.
In the end, it looks like you had air in the system, since nothing they did fixed the issue; replacing the rad, was ridiculous in the first place, let alone the second time.

You should only pay for whatever fixed the issue,,,, which appears to be bleeding properly.
Good luck.
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