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  #11  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:10 AM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weswisehart View Post
I have a 96 Dodge ram 1500 5.9 4x4 automatic. I recently swapped in a new transmission and now the truck won't start. I get 50 psi at fuel rail and spark to the plugs. I'm getting good compression as Well. When I pull the fuel rail to watch the injectors the spray fine but only long enough to get spark then they shut off. I've replaced the rotor cap the pick up, plugs , wires, rotor button, tps, crank position sensor, and the valve on the rear of the throttle body. I'm at a loss. Thanks for any info.
^Lets start with this aaaaall over again and try to keep focused.^

I'd try the coil at this point. See if someone can test it in your area. If not see if you can find a donor vehicle that you know runs and swap it out just to see.

I'm just wondering how you tested the timing and found it spot on if there's no spark. Not questioning you just trying to make sense of this thread and get back on track.
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:17 AM
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A friend of mine had a '97 Dodge truck, his computer took a dump on him
The bad thing was that he had a STICK SHIFT & a rebuilt computer was not available
Only computers for automatics could be found

He was stubborn & did NOT want to go to the dealership to get the ORIGINAL computer checked out
Now he is driving a Toyota
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:28 AM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
A friend of mine had a '97 Dodge truck, his computer took a dump on him
The bad thing was that he had a STICK SHIFT & a rebuilt computer was not available
Only computers for automatics could be found

He was stubborn & did NOT want to go to the dealership to get the ORIGINAL computer checked out
Now he is driving a Toyota
I have a spare ECM for mine and mine is a . The only difference that I've found is the shift light on the dash goes on/off at an automatic's factory shift points. If he can live with that...
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2013, 11:50 AM
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Sadly he sold the '97 for $200, after messing with it for 2 months
it had a 318 in it, 500,000 miles on the original engine & it still ran strong, just would not start & if it did, he never knew when it would shut down on him & he would have to get towed home

I mentioned that he could easily get rid of the computer completely, just go with a carburetor set up
It was already legally smog exempt, so that was no issue
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2013, 07:36 PM
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Go back and make sure the distributor cap is seated properly. Also, did you remove the distributor? Maybe back in 180 degrees out. Reason I say is, the computer looks for a signal from the distributor pick-up. If it does not see that signal, it kills the power to the coil, which also kills the fuel pump. This involves the ASD (auto shutdown relay). If the distributor is good, and the pick-up plug is fully seated at the plug of the harness (you did remember to plug it in, right?), then you're probably looking at a faulty ASD or PCM.
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  #16  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:41 AM
weswisehart weswisehart is offline
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I replaced the crank position sensor and It's the same. I've looked all the wiring over and over Also had another guy in the shop look over everything and everything seems good. I the I'll try replacing the purge valve on the rear of the throttle body. I replaced it but with a used part. Not sure what else to do
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  #17  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:49 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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I've never had a vehicle not start because of the IAC, it just runs like crap.

Not to revisit the fuel issue but have you tried starting fluid?

You're implying that it isn't getting spark, is that correct?

Let's try this directly.

1. Is it getting spark, and spark while cranking?

2. It it getting fuel, and have you tried starting fluid?

Last edited by Warlock III; 06-21-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:51 AM
weswisehart weswisehart is offline
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O ha ha my bad. Yea I replaced the crank position sensor and that didn't help.
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  #19  
Old 06-23-2013, 11:59 AM
weswisehart weswisehart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Go back and make sure the distributor cap is seated properly. Also, did you remove the distributor? Maybe back in 180 degrees out. Reason I say is, the computer looks for a signal from the distributor pick-up. If it does not see that signal, it kills the power to the coil, which also kills the fuel pump. This involves the ASD (auto shutdown relay). If the distributor is good, and the pick-up plug is fully seated at the plug of the harness (you did remember to plug it in, right?), then you're probably looking at a faulty ASD or PCM.
It is seated correctly I've put three different caps on changed the wires twice and the plugs. I just keep thinking I have bought faulty items so I replace things I've replaced to be sure. I don't believe It's 180 out. One side has a square while the other has a circle so the cap only goes on one way. Also the cap has the number one on it Which sits the way the diagrams show. Is it possible replacing the transmission a jarred something loose?
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  #20  
Old 06-23-2013, 12:21 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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Have you checked to see that you are getting spark into and out of the dist?

I'm really trying to go through this step by step and you keep jumping around.
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