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  #1  
Old 07-01-2013, 10:39 PM
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drp6982 drp6982 is offline
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Default Newbie to Diesel

Hey Guys,


Traded my 2500 Hemi for a 2011 3500 Cummins Dually... its an SLT with 43,000 Miles.












Sorry to keep this generic but I am hoping some of you diesel experts could give me some pointers.... any type of maintenance I need to do special vs a gas motor ? Any good do's and dont's of diesels would be appreciated.....
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Last edited by drp6982; 07-02-2013 at 09:31 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2013, 02:04 AM
scrappy scrappy is offline
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Welcome to the diesel world!
and FYI, there is no "g" in CUMMINS!

do's
Drive it!
oil air fuel filters on schedule

Don't
no excessive idling
no short trips
ABSOLUTELY NO K&N air filter!

Last edited by scrappy; 07-02-2013 at 02:08 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrappy View Post
Welcome to the diesel world!
and FYI, there is no "g" in CUMMINS!

do's
Drive it!
oil air fuel filters on schedule

Don't
no excessive idling
no short trips
ABSOLUTELY NO K&N air filter!

Thanks for the reply!

Where is the Air/Fuel filter located and is it easy to get to ? Approx what kind of interval should I change or at least examine it ?

No K&N ? Brand specific or avoid a high flow filter?
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My Mopar Stable: 07 SRT8 Charger 426 Stroker with Direct Port Nitrous (1/4 9.70@138.88mph)'
2011 Dodge Durango Crew 5.7L Hemi / Custom Katskinz
2012 Chrylser SRT8 300 optioned Out
2011 Ram 3500 SLT Big Horn Dually
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:47 AM
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Congrats on the Upgrade DRP! Time to update your sig!
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT View Post
Congrats on the Upgrade DRP! Time to update your sig!

Oh lol, Thanks Clay
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:56 PM
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I wish I had a 3500. Fuel filter is the most important. You don't want to go over on it, that alone will decide how many miles you can get out of your truck.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathrend View Post
I wish I had a 3500. Fuel filter is the most important. You don't want to go over on it, that alone will decide how many miles you can get out of your truck.


What intervals would you recommend replacing them ?
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2011 Dodge Durango Crew 5.7L Hemi / Custom Katskinz
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:28 PM
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Book says 15k miles. I could buy them cheap.. so I stocked up, plan on changing them every 10 or so.. just to be safe ha.

I work buys tons of parts from a local Cummins store, so we get really good discounts.

The common rail fuel system in these trucks.. well to put it mildly, they don't build them like they used to!
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drp6982 View Post
Thanks for the reply!

Where is the Air/Fuel filter located and is it easy to get to ? Approx what kind of interval should I change or at least examine it ?

No K&N ? Brand specific or avoid a high flow filter?
the air filter is easy. it is on the passenger side fender.
the fuel filter is on the drivers side of the engine below the master cylinder
the factory recommended interval is good but I also recommend carrying a spare with you incase of bad fuel.

they recommend to NOT open the airbox to check it, it can be difficult to get resealed correctly and you will not know for a long time if it is not sealed.

no K&N at all, and I would also stay away from any oiled filter. I only know of 1 oiled filter I would trust, a AFE ProGuard 7. and it is still not my 1st choice.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:34 AM
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Excessive idle will plug your DPF and you'll enter regen more frequently. Some DPF's become clogged enough that regen alone wont clean it and you'll have to get it cleaned at the dealer. If you want an aftermarket intake system I'm running the S&B intake with the replacable paper filter. Really woke up the truck even with the emissions equipment in place. I'm also using the pre-filter on my paper element. S&B's are fully sealed boxes with the option of running a scoop to the bottom for Hiway use under ideal conditions. Another positive is they are tested to ISO5011 standards so your getting a good product. AFE's momentum HD is also ISO5011 tested but is an oil based element.

Driving in the winter, use your winter front! It helps you keep your motor at operating temp and keeps your DPF working correctly. That being said, when the snow is gone loose the winter front or you'll cook your motor.

Last bit of advice! warm-ups and cool downs. Diesels aren't like gas jobs where you can crank and go. I let my truck have a brief warm-up before I get going, same before shutting it off. Usually a minute of idle before shut-off and if I'm running it hard a 5 minute cool-down. Not letting your motor cool down especially when your EGT's are high will cause the oil in your turbo to start coking and solidify.. AKA blown turbo.

If you don't have to worry about emissions laws and your warranty is up, delete the EGR and DPF. My milage is through the roof right now even with 35" tires. 15MPG average right now and thats hot-dogging it around. DPF-present hot-dogging was like 8MPG.
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