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  #11  
Old 06-23-2013, 09:31 PM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
I'd definitely make sure that fuel return line is hooked up (return back to the fuel tank). The mechanical pump will serve as an effective pressure limiter to the electric pump, so it's probably not flooding from excess volume, unless the fuel return line is capped and the fuel has nowhere to go. Possible the idle speed screw bleeds could be fouled. Start at a high idle. There are 2 screws on the front lower section of the carb. Gently flush them down, then unscrew 1.5 complete turns. Start up, get up a high idle around 1500rpm, then take one screw and slowly screw in 1/2 turn. Engine rpm should vary slightly. Then return to original spot. Now unscrew another 1/2 turn, meaning 2 total turns. Better or worse? Leave it where it's best and repeat with the other screw. What you are looking for is where rpm will rise to highest point in response to adjustment. If one or both are bad, you can screw in or out and it'll basically make no difference. One might work, and the other is like being a dumb post, totally useless. If that happens, you have a problem. Could be internal damage, or possibly just crud. If you see improvement, take a test drive on the new settings. I'm thinking you do have a fuel delivery issue. The electric could be failing and needs time to cool off as you indicated earlier. The tandem pump thing was used, usually to help maintain good fuel supply (and combat vapor locking fuel lines), not that it was needed with a healthy factory system. Sounds like they were having issues when they added that. Hate to say it but unless you can verify adequate fuel supply, I'd scrag both pumps for new ones, mechanical first, then electric if needed. I would test a new mechanical with the electric removed and the line spliced, otherwise the possibly dead electric could restrict flow. I'm in South Mississippi. We know hot weather too. Only time I ever experience vapor lock was when I had a temporary 383 in my first car ('69 Charger). It came with a 318 which was being rebuilt, but I needed the car so a well-worn 383 went in. The extra heat from the exhausts was an issue. A little aluminum foil around all the rubber line solved it (no return lines on cars that far back). It'd cut out and I'd have to wait for it to cool off to continue on. Also, once the 318 was back in, it eventually got topped with an Edelbrock 750 AFB. The aluminum body rejects heat several times quicker than steel. Fuel percolation was never an issue. Not to say it can't happen, just sayingit's much more likely a hot spot on a fuel line.


Ironically enough after a dump run one day, the truck started sputtering and dying out when we hit a hill, and upon inspection of the hoses under the hood, there was a piece of tubing coming off the fuel filter that was just shot, it was easily pinched by hand, and had basically just collapsed internally. We replaced that and figured out that a couple of vacuum lines that were part of the vapor canister system weren't even hooked up, after hooking all that up, it started up and pulled the last three hills home with almost no problems, but it is back to running like crap once it heats up. I'm going to try wrapping the fuel lines in foil to see if that helps along with the carb tune and ignition coil, I'll be doing that tomorrow.
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  #12  
Old 06-23-2013, 10:33 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Couple other things, now that you mention it. Get a pack of caps and plugs. Go through and use the appropriate piece to close off every extraneous port under the hood. Cap the vacuum cannister and every other dinky little vacuum line/port you can find. All you need is the big vacuum lines for PCV and power brakes. If yours has a vacuum advance on the distributor (pretty much gone by mid-80's) make sure it's good. Other than that, the other stuff is garbage. Just all potential leaks. The vapor cannister is part of the purge function (emissions crap). If you notice pressure on the fuel tank on hot days, switch to a vented gas cap. Since you don't have the stock carb, the whole purge function is non-functional anyway.
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:35 AM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Couple other things, now that you mention it. Get a pack of caps and plugs. Go through and use the appropriate piece to close off every extraneous port under the hood. Cap the vacuum cannister and every other dinky little vacuum line/port you can find. All you need is the big vacuum lines for PCV and power brakes. If yours has a vacuum advance on the distributor (pretty much gone by mid-80's) make sure it's good. Other than that, the other stuff is garbage. Just all potential leaks. The vapor cannister is part of the purge function (emissions crap). If you notice pressure on the fuel tank on hot days, switch to a vented gas cap. Since you don't have the stock carb, the whole purge function is non-functional anyway.
Bonus! I will definitely do that.. It does have a vacuum advance dist. But I don't know if it is working.. Thats why I was asking about the timing as I can't see the timing marks through the goofy little cup on the crank since the smog pump is in the way.
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  #14  
Old 06-24-2013, 12:26 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Something else. You want to be sure the vacuum line to the distributor is connected to the ported vacuum port, not the full time port on the carb. On the AFB these two ports are on either side of the two idle screw adjusters. Facing the truck, driver side being to your right side, looking at the carb, the ported vacuum port is on the left side of the front of the carb, directly to the left of that side's idle adjuster screw. Cap the port on the right side. If not hooked up to the ported vacuum it'll never run right.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 06-24-2013 at 12:28 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2013, 04:30 PM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Something else. You want to be sure the vacuum line to the distributor is connected to the ported vacuum port, not the full time port on the carb. On the AFB these two ports are on either side of the two idle screw adjusters. Facing the truck, driver side being to your right side, looking at the carb, the ported vacuum port is on the left side of the front of the carb, directly to the left of that side's idle adjuster screw. Cap the port on the right side. If not hooked up to the ported vacuum it'll never run right.
If i'm not mistaken thats how it is hooked up, but if not, I'll set it right.

More pics and audio clip coming tonight.
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2013, 01:17 AM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Ok here's an update. I went to check the gap on the plugs, and the wires fell apart, so I picked up a set of bosch 7mm wires. Attempted the carb tuning and have almost turned the screws all the way out, it still dies when you put it into gear. The gap on every plug was too small, adjusted that. I swear it still has a miss, I wonder if the ICM is going out/bad? I was told it was replaced by my grandpa (who has alzheimers, not the most reliable source I realize), it is blue, which seems odd for a factory color, but who knows...

Last edited by 87flatbed350; 06-25-2013 at 02:53 AM.
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2013, 08:15 AM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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If the idle mixture screw adjusters have no effect when being adjusted, sounds like you have a carb problem. The engine should not idle at all if totally screwed down. A setting of about 1.5- 2.0 full turns open should be fine.
While a failing ICM doesn't typically cause a "miss" it is possible that it's failing, requiring time to cool off to run again fits that profile. That will get worse and eventually fail. Also, the ballast resistor needs to be replaced (white ceramic----brittle, delicate....don't over-tighten) on firewall near ICM. Fortunately, they're $20 bucks each, give or take. Blue ICM not uncommon for aftermarket, have had them myself. As the production of these things moved the China, those in the know always kept a spare set in the glove box. Just don't last like in the old days. If you get a good one, it will last years.
Another possible cause of the miss could be a little deeper in the ignition, meaning the distributor (single pickup or dual?) Could be a worn distributor shaft bushing in the block causing a wobble that's dropping a cylinder, but that's something to consider after everything else has been dealt with. You typically see that on very high time engines. It can manifest as a low rpm miss that improves as rpms rise.
It sounds like you're finding the basic issues on your own. It needs a tune-up. The carb is still a concern. Funny how on these relatively simple setups (compared to today) problems can still be difficult to ferret out.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2013, 10:01 PM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
If the idle mixture screw adjusters have no effect when being adjusted, sounds like you have a carb problem. The engine should not idle at all if totally screwed down. A setting of about 1.5- 2.0 full turns open should be fine.
While a failing ICM doesn't typically cause a "miss" it is possible that it's failing, requiring time to cool off to run again fits that profile. That will get worse and eventually fail. Also, the ballast resistor needs to be replaced (white ceramic----brittle, delicate....don't over-tighten) on firewall near ICM. Fortunately, they're $20 bucks each, give or take. Blue ICM not uncommon for aftermarket, have had them myself. As the production of these things moved the China, those in the know always kept a spare set in the glove box. Just don't last like in the old days. If you get a good one, it will last years.
Another possible cause of the miss could be a little deeper in the ignition, meaning the distributor (single pickup or dual?) Could be a worn distributor shaft bushing in the block causing a wobble that's dropping a cylinder, but that's something to consider after everything else has been dealt with. You typically see that on very high time engines. It can manifest as a low rpm miss that improves as rpms rise.
It sounds like you're finding the basic issues on your own. It needs a tune-up. The carb is still a concern. Funny how on these relatively simple setups (compared to today) problems can still be difficult to ferret out.

I looked at the dist. and rotor/cap, everything looks good. I do wonder about the ICM. The ballast resistor is something I forgot about, but will be replacing.. The current one definitely looks crispy.. Since the ICM is only $23 I'll be replacing that as well..

Engine Video
Exhaust Video
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  #19  
Old 06-25-2013, 10:48 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Man, it's worse than I thought. I'm hearing some mis-firing or something in there, surging too. Still a good idea to replace the ignition stuff like we've discussed. I think you're still having a vacuum leak. Start with the carb as suspect number one. If those idle mix screws are ineffective, you definitely have a vacuum leak, most likely from galling in the carb body around those bleeds. Not knowing the history of that carb it's hard to say, but it happens. The sound coming from the carb is all wrong, even for a stock engine. It just sounds bad. Idling way too high, which can also indicate a vacuum leak. That thing should sit there and purr silky smooth at 650 rpm idle in gear like it's nothin'.
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2013, 01:27 AM
87flatbed350 87flatbed350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
That thing should sit there and purr silky smooth at 650 rpm idle in gear like it's nothin'.
I agree. I will have the money to replace the ICM and ballast tomorrow, so I will do that as well as trash the smog pump and time the engine, see how it runs after that... I wish it had a tach as I can't judge its rpm by ear with all the extra noise that thing makes..

Last edited by 87flatbed350; 06-26-2013 at 01:35 AM.
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