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  #11  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:54 PM
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The reason I said replace the oil pump first is they have been known to fail. There is a chance his bearing are shot and causing him to loose oil pressure, but I would sure start with the oil pump.
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:48 PM
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I personally think to be having to rebuild a engine with 175,000 HWY miles sounds crazy to me. Maybe im just used to foreign vehicles where thousands of miles can be put on a vehicle.

Warlock, your right I just asked a simple mechanical question. And besides with all the dishonest/dirty mechanics out there (yes dealerships too) its hard to get a straight forward answer without them just seeing dollar signs and trying to get over on me. So thats why I came to this forum in hopes somebody with possibly the same problem in the past could help me.

Anywho, Warlock, what would be your first and foremost thing to try? And what do you think about using 10w-40 oil? Maybe a bottle of Lucas to replace a quart? I do realize I need a oil pan gasket. Is the oil pump in this model located inside the man? If so I might as well replace it too while they are in there. To get the oil pan off and do this work, does the motor need to be jacked up any?? Or just simply remove the bolts?

Thanks for the replies and any further info
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:05 PM
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You should only need to drop the starter to make it easier to get to the rear pan bolts. No jacking up the engine.

Funny part is that the pan gasket will cost more than the oil pump. Order a Melling HV High Volume pump for your truck. It's about $5 more than OEM and 25% more oil volume. With the higher volume and 20w-50 oil the restriction in the journals is greater and will increase the oil pressure dramatically. No, no 10w-40 you're past that by about 50k. It actually may have contributed in the rapid decrease if it was acute.

But as I said it's temporary and you'll start to notice a decrease in about 15-20,000 miles, after the first oil change you can start to use the Lucas.

It may be a good idea to start using Duralube (<- good stuff and worth the $) because I've always had good luck with it. Helps on the dry start and closes the bearing tolerance by coating the inside of them also helping to increase the pressure.
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Last edited by Warlock III; 07-24-2013 at 04:09 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:12 PM
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How much oil are you using? Have you done a compression test?
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  #15  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02RamGuy View Post
I have a 02' Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L quad cab. Please bear with me as I will tell you whats going on from the start. Well in the past little while I have been having to add oil pretty often. I do believe its leaking from the oil pan gasket in the bottom of the "U" shape on the front of the pan gasket. I can't see any other place on the motor where it would be leaking. The truck does have 175,00 miles on it so it may be using SOME oil, but not as much as im having to add and besides there is no smoke at all coming out of the pipes. Ok, so I can usually tell when I need to add oil because the pressure will drop all the way down and come back up, but not here lately. The oil level is FULL and its getting more and more common for the pressure to drop all the way down, stay down for about 4-5 seconds, then return to normal. Note: This is only at a idle, I almost never had it to drop while driving down the road. Mostly at stop lights and such when im at a idle.

What could this be? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Some notes:
-has 175,000 miles (95% HWY)
-I use 10W-30 motor oil, changed regularly (here lately since I been adding oil often I been using cheaper oil i.e. Valvoline, Quaker oil) I usually and once I get gasket fixed I will go back to Castrol
-oil filter is also changed with oil always

Any questions for me please ask. I dont know whats going on here or if somethings going bad or if its something simple I can do.

Thanks in advance
I believe he stated the consumption was due to a leak. Compression has nothing to do with oil pressure if we can stick to the topic as posted, asked, and described.

How much air pressure is in the spare?

Does the cigarette lighter (com port) work?
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  #16  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock III View Post
I believe he stated the consumption was due to a leak. Compression has nothing to do with oil pressure if we can stick to the topic as posted, asked, and described.

How much air pressure is in the spare?

Does the cigarette lighter (com port) work?
He also said it was using SOME OIL. I asked how much. But you go ahead. I won't even try and help him now
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:32 PM
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Actually I apologize. I just see too may threads where the OP has to read through 9 pages of responses because there are more questions asked than answered. Completely sidetracking and going off topic.

I just feel that specific questions should receive specific answers geared towards replying towards the OP's concern. If there is an extenuating circumstance that could contribute or compound the original question, then by all means it should be included.

Not that the people that ask questions are in any way simple, but the answers should be because they are looking for help, and not confusion to compound the issue.

Nothing against you Kx personally.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2013, 05:01 PM
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kx, I said it might be using some. But im not sure if its even using any at all. My loss for some of the oil at least for sure is from the oil pan gasket.

warlock, I noticed by your avatar you have a older model. Now as far as what im talking about having to jack the motor up to get the pan off, you (all in all) are talking about my year model (02') and engine type right? Just making sure we are on the same page. Also, you say this is a temporary fix. Whats my actual fix to my problem?? A rebuild? Also if its a rebuild, will after a rebuild I go back to regular oil weight or still use the heavy stuff??

Also, can I not use that weight of oil with the pump I currently have in there??
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:02 PM
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I am referring to a 3rd gen 5.9 2002-2003. The oil pan should come out without any jacking up the motor.

Changing the oil and installing a HV pump might get you another 20K.

The actual fix problem is to replace the crankshaft, connecting rod bearings and, main bearings.

However, as I said, you can replace the bearings and leave the crankshaft as it is for maybe another 100K.

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  #20  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:09 PM
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so basically a oil pan gasket and oil pump is fairly easy to replace right? Anything I need to know?? I know you said remove starter, any tips for that? Me and a buddy of mine might tackle this job. Also, where can I get that pump you mentioned??
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