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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013, 11:57 PM
thundersminions13 thundersminions13 is offline
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Default Starving 5.9L

PLEASE HELP ME! My dad (who is a mechanic), myself, and another mechanic are all stumped!

Ok, here goes. A few months ago, my truck started dying. Literally. Holding the gas pedal constant, the truck started surging and falling on it's face going down the road. At that point, decided to run it till it either stopped doing it, or the full tank of gas was used up. It kept doing it for a couple of weeks, then it stopped. Thinking it had stopped doing it and perhaps it was bad/stale gas or something, slowly started filling the tank again. As soon as the tank was full again, the problem was back. And worse than ever. Backfiring right at the engine, no power at all, acting as if it is starving for fuel. Decided to install a new fuel pump. 3 days later after removing the box to install the new fuel pump/sending unit, and $314 later, problem persisted. It is then that I started getting real frustrated. The neighbour, who is a licensed mechanic, went for a test drive in the passengers seat and witnessed what it is doing. When they get back, the truck sounds like it is suffocating for air now, even though the breather box was off. He believes it to be a vacuum leak, so started spraying brake clean around the vacuum lines, and it smoothed out. My dad takes the truck home and sprays break clean to try and pinpoint the leak, but instead the engine catches fire 10 minutes later. The fire started back by the distributor, and luckily the garden hose was right there and there was no damage done. Now, after letting the engine dry from the water from putting out the fire, my dad touches the distributor cap and gets a major zap. Not a minor one, a major one. The coil wire also zapped. So thinking the coil was arcing out and back feeding into the distributor cap, changed the coil wire. It stopped zapping, but the distributor sure didn't! Knowing the distributor cap is bad, put on a new cap, rotor and spark plug wires today, checked the plugs, fine. Took it for a test drive, acting like 2 wires are switched. Go over it again, wires are all fine. Changed the coil to a used one that happened to be in the garage. Ran way better, and was drivable for a short distance. Went for a longer distance (under 5km) test drive, and it is right back to doing the surging, starving, and suffocating for air again. I am about to give up and part out the truck to make my money back that I have needlessly spent fixing something that seems unfixable. Has anyone else experienced this, and knows how to fix it?
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:19 AM
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Have you checked to see if there is a chipped tooth in the timing chain?

How about the fuel injector? If this is bad it will certainly cause the problems that you are talking about.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:24 AM
thundersminions13 thundersminions13 is offline
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I'm afraid to check the timing chain, which means removing the whole front of the motor. I had thought of injectors, and did plan on getting new o rings and soaking the injectors in sea foam, then blew way over my budget already
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:37 AM
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I did a quick search and came up with the link that will show you how to check your fuel injectors without costing a fortune.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...el-injectors-1

Do that first and if it finds the problem then you won't have to worry about the timing chain.

Good luck, sounds like you have a tough problem there to solve.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:20 AM
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CEL?

Check throttle Position Sensor.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:56 AM
thundersminions13 thundersminions13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRX350 View Post
CEL?

Check throttle Position Sensor.
thanks, going to test that today! IF it is bad, any idea what that will cost to replace?
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:33 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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After checking that stuff ^ check the cat converter (how is the exhaust pressure and how hot is it (the converter) after the truck warms up?) and then get back with the results of each test above as well as the cat. Check down the throttle body and tell us what you see in there.

About 65 for the TPS. But you can unplug the one on the truck and see if there's a difference before replacing it. If you unplug it and it gets worse...not the problem.

Is it making any hissing/sucking noises?

Last edited by Warlock III; 07-16-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:45 PM
thundersminions13 thundersminions13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock III View Post
After checking that stuff ^ check the cat converter (how is the exhaust pressure and how hot is it (the converter) after the truck warms up?) and then get back with the results of each test above as well as the cat. Check down the throttle body and tell us what you see in there.

About 65 for the TPS. But you can unplug the one on the truck and see if there's a difference before replacing it. If you unplug it and it gets worse...not the problem.

Is it making any hissing/sucking noises?
There is no cat on it, just an empty canister, and then a fresh cat goes on for e-test only, and right back off again and the hollow one goes on. Exhaust is custom. all the sensors come back normal acording to the Haynes book. YES hissing sounds like a tornado getting increasingly louder before it stalls out, setting off the check engine and oil light. Went over all the vacuum lines again, taking them apart and checking the check valves etc. nothing wrong there either. cleaned the PCV and replaced the PCV hose and it seems to be running fine. so far. pulled the top line off of the EGR, and the EGR is solid there. I do not think it is supposed to be! and since the EGR controls the vacuum, and hissing sounds are vacuum, I think we found the culprit. Now it is just finding one in store and taking it in to have it replaced (bolts are so old and rusted, dont want to chance snapped them off in the intake).
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:08 PM
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Usually the small tornado that you think is going to appear...but doesn't. Is a faulty 02 sensor, or the IAC on the back of the throttle body. For around $45-$50 it's a good bet it'll help you out.

The IAC (Intake Air Control (valve)) regulates the air intake into the manifold. If it's stuck or faulty you'll hear that sound.

It'll idle real low and sometimes cause the oil light to come on due to the pressure drop.

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve probably can wait until you replace the IAC, and get back to us on the progress.




Check out the second video first.


Last edited by Warlock III; 07-16-2013 at 04:14 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2013, 05:48 PM
thundersminions13 thundersminions13 is offline
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I had considered the IAC while reading the Haynes book twiddling my thumbs waiting for the engine to do it again so I could get back to looking at it, but it never did it today. I had also planned on videoing the noise, but today it didn't do it. It does it only after the engine is warm and idling after being taken for a short drive. I can start and restart the truck 100 times and let it idle for 5 minutes, and nothing. Does that still sound like IAC? I did try to test it today, but the Haynes book said to have the AC on, and I ripped the AC out of the truck 4 years ago. Voltage readings while the key is on, but engine not running, were normal according to Haynes. The injectors were also tested today, and all around 15 Volts, which is normal. It has always had a slight miss in the idle, but I don't really care about that, just want it not to conk out and be undrivable. It is my dog transport truck and they have an event this weekend. I need it running to a distance of 10km at least by then, which is just adding to the stress. Should the top port in the EGR be solid, where there is a vacuum line or something connected to it?
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