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Old 08-05-2013, 09:42 AM
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Wh1t3nukle Wh1t3nukle is offline
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Here's why it is unneccessary to deal with pinion angle to the degree needed for 2 joint driveshaft when changing to slip-yoke driveshaft.

What all stock trucks come with for 2 joint driveshaft where the slip yoke is in the tcase:

change the number 0 to an "o" in the url for the .com


Look at the blocks on the perch. The smaller one on top is a degree shim. The shim pitches the pinion back down. The angle b/t the driveshaft and pinion must be within 2-3 of the angle between the tcase and driveshaft. Effectively parallel.

Going to a slip yoke driveshaft (only 1 CV at tcase), which also means a slip yoke eliminator on the tcase results in:

The pinion is pointed directly at the tcase output. That's roughly 30 or so.

Yeah, don't install an axle with the pinion pointed backwards...emmm k?

Also forgot to mention that if you really wanted to stay 5 lug, you can do it w/o going adapters. I wouldn't go that route myself. But here's a thread on one way to go 5 lug although it may be outdated and off the shelf products are more readily available.



Here's one disk brake conversion kit.


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Old 08-05-2013, 10:34 AM
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The pinion angle must always be checked....no matter what you are working on.

And no one said to install the pinion pointing backwards...I DID say to install the springs backwards, which I have seen done, and it results in the pinion pointing down to the ground too much because the shims are facing the wrong way, and on most vehicles, it will also move the axle backwards, cuz the front part of the spring is shorter than the rear part.

Looking at the pic you posted a link to....well, I see 1 aluminum block, with a line in it on the side, but not on the front, so it is a 1 piece block There is the stock cast iron overlo on top of that, which has the extension piece on it to contact the bump stop when the spring is overloaded, and above that, attached to the spring, is the shim which corrects the pinion angle for the amount of lift.

Why do you think those shims are put on the bottom of the springs by the spring manufacturer or lift kit manufacturer ??? It is because they have to be there to get the pinion angle right.....so maybe it IS something to worry about, cuz I am sure they didn't put it in there just to waste metal and money.

And in the pic you posted with the modified 3 link...well, for the type of driveshaft being used, your pinion angles are fine. But, it is not the slipjoint that makes it that way, it is the double cardan joint. You have 0 deg at the hogshead, and 15 deg at the tcase (15 deg because you have a double cardan joint which splits the 30 degs in half). That works for a slipjointed double cardan shaft, but not for a regular slipjointed shaft. A double cardan joint driveshaft needs 0 deg at one end, at least that is what the company who made my custom slip jointed double cardan driveshafts told me (Denny's Driveshafts).

And in that setup, the pinion angle is nowhere close to stock, nor is the suspension for that matter, so apparently someone worried about it enough to rotate the pinion up to get it the way it is when they built the suspension.

The slipjoint driveshaft is more tolerant of non-matching pinion angles, but they still must be checked to avoid problems. You can not run 0 deg at one end and 15 deg at the other end without wear issues unless you have a slipjoint AND a double cardan joint.

A regular slipjoint shaft does not have the double cardan joint in it, and requires the matching pinion angles to avoid wearing out the ujoints. The older dodge trucks used slip joint rear driveshafts, but had no double cardan joint, and as such, you had to check pinion angle when lifting them and use shims to get the pinion right.

I had a problem with my front driveshaft on my 79 dodge ramcharger which had a slipjoint driveshaft and a double cardan joint because the alignment shop took the shims out from uinder the springs when doing the alignment. SO, if you don't need to worry about the pinion angle with a slipjoint shaft as you claim, then why did I have binding with the shims out ???
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Last edited by TRCM; 08-05-2013 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:08 PM
Danz51 Danz51 is offline
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So my take away from this was yes, switch to Dana 60's but make sure you align them correctly. Also, maybe switch to a slip yoke drive shaft.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Danz51 View Post
So my take away from this was yes, switch to Dana 60's but make sure you align them correctly. Also, maybe switch to a slip yoke drive shaft.

Also, Dana 70s have quite a bit of aftermarket support for them now, don't walk away from it just because you think its an oddball. ARB and a few others make lockers and spools, gears are available as well as aftermarket shafts.
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