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Electrical 1st Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 06-08-2013, 03:29 PM
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Default LTB - Door latch mechanism (electric) 91-93 Dodge pickup (D250 Turbo-D)

Probably posting this in the wrong area. Beena member for a couple years but I dont post much. Anyway, if an admin wants to move it to the appropriate area - Id actually appreciate it. Im on my phone and navigation on the site isnt easy for me.

So anyway, my 92 Dodge D250 cummin turbo diesel dually needs a few items. Mainly I need a new drivers side door latch. Door just dont want to shut right. Ive pulled it apart - the mechanism is flubbed up. Its electronic too - if that matters. Sometimes the electronics arent actaully part of the mechanism on some cars.

But yeah.... it only shuts if i open handle from the inside and then lock the door and then slam it shut and even then sometimes it just "hangs" and rattles down the road. Other times you almost have to hold it going down the road.

ITS DRIVING ME FREAKING NUTS!!!!

Also maybe looking for some new seats... thinking bucket seats with console and stuff. Bench be ok but HAS to have console.

looking for a badass grill guard too. A guy on one of these forums was making them for awhile but I lost his contact info.

Lastly, might be looking for a parts rig with a 4x4... love my truck but NEED 4x4 and dont want to have to have two trucks. I love THIS truck.

Mainly need latch for now.... anyone have any leads?

-Chas
The_Mavericke@hotmail.com
(309)299-4825

Thanks!!!
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  #2  
Old 06-08-2013, 05:54 PM
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Try Car-Part.com

It searches used parts inventories globally. Is yours a standard cab? If it's a club cab Ramcharger seats'll fit it independently with or without a console.

I'll keep it short.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:46 AM
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Sweet, I'll check it out. And yeah it's the club/extended cab style with the small fold-down seats in the back which I also intent to replace with a different style fold down bench seat.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:13 AM
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If I bought a 95 Dodge Ram.... I know they changed everything from 94 to 95....

but if I bought this 95, would I be able to yank all the 4x4 gear off of the front end and put on my 92?

Here's my thought... this 95 has everything I need/want for my 92. Seats and 4x4 and some other random parts. It has a good running Fuel injected 360 in it. I could take the engine and maybe tranny/transfer case and install them in my AMC Eagle (which I know I can do - I'm already working on doing a 360 swap anyways. This just gives me a newer 360 with fuel injection!)

That would leave me with a frame, cab and bed. Might even be able to use the frame for the Eagle to give it a solid frame instead of unibody while also giving it a nice natural-looking lift. In fact.... omg, if the length was right (which it's probably not) I could almpst literally just take the Eagle body and sit it on the 95 Dodge thus recycling everything besides the cab and bed which aren't in the best shape anyways.

Hmmmm..... the possibilities. The frame though would be a stretch. The 4x4 though.... that's what would really settle the deal.

Thoughts?

PS - No luck on the door latch mechanism yet.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:00 PM
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Realistically or theoretically?

Kid asks his dad...what's the difference between realistically and theoretically?

Dad says go up stairs and ask your mom if she'd sleep with a guy for one million dollars. Kid goes up, comes back and says...she said yes.

Dad says, ok now go ask your sister...Kid comes back, same thing.

Dad says there you have it...theoretically we have two million dollars in the bank.

Realistically we're living with a couple of...well you get it.

It all depends on how much work you want to do. Anything is possible. I spent 2 years on mine because I was told it wasn't possible. Matter of time over cash influx.

It would be some work because the 1st gen has locking hubs etc.. but that's just a matter of a remote vacuum switch as an example. As for anything being as simple as R&R not likely. Shock mounts to name another gear ratios will have to be checked...

*RE your P.S. Check Car-Part.com and try to locate a power door with damage listed. It's a good bet that they'll separate it. But make sure to look under power door/parts. Found one here: Carz R Us USA-IL(Armington) E-mail 1-309-392-2000
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Last edited by Warlock III; 06-09-2013 at 12:08 PM. Reason: typo
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2013, 09:53 PM
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Yeah, realistically.... not gonna happen.

But it was a nice thought. I've done some similar work like you mentioned just because people said it couldn't be done - BUT, not really looking to add a crap load of work like that. I'd rather find another truck ready for scrap of the same make with the 4x4 setup and go that route which should be significantly easier.

As for the Car-parts.com, I checked it out and it looks like they have an entire door for $50 and it's even grey like mine with some rust. I'll take the whole thing for $50 because I could use another door panel and spare window motor as well. The good news is that they are less than an hour from me as well so I'll be checking that out on Monday when they open up.

Thanks for the help fellas!
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:59 AM
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Got any pics? Gen.1 doors are NOTORIOUS for sagging - the metal of the door at the hinge, is WAAAYYY too weak - it's a common occurence, and the sag WOULD prevent your door from latching properly if it was bad enough.

I'm having the shop that's doing my re-gear, also fix my driver's side door sage. A nice stip of 4" wide, & about 18" long 1/8" steel plate, welded to the door, with the hinge bolted through it, should firm it up considerably!
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:07 PM
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I don't think it's the door sagging. It doesn't drop when I open it. Thought it does clang around driving down the road. The "lock" latch is all that holds it from swinging open but the door kind of sits like it would if someone didn't shut it all the way. So it has a considerable gap around the door where you hear air rushing in and you can see light outside... going over railroad tracks or gravel roads is hell... the whole door thuds up and down BAMBAMBAMBAMBAM... it's beyond freaking annoying!!!

From the outside, it looks like the door just wasn't shut all the way. Just enough to lock it but not enough for the door handle latch to hold.

The good news is that while cleaning the barn I did find two pristine doors off of another 92 Dodge that I thought I had previously scrapped! I was beyond excited! AND, everything from the door had already been stripped besides the inner locking hardware so it will literally only take a minute to pull it out.

The bad news was that I didn't have the proper star/torque bit. I had a set that was stolen from me. So I've had to sit on the part for two days. I just bought a new torque-bit set today so the door will be fixed tomorrow! If I put the new latch on and I continue to have the problem then I'll try something else but I'm telling ya.... everything else looks good visually.

Now, I don't know if this will help diagnose the issue, but it started doing this one night after I slammed the door out of anger. I usually don't take my anger out on my vehicles - in fact, in all my years I've only taken my anger out on three of my vehicles. Once, I was 16 and punched the a-pillar on my Escort. 10 years later, I spent three days working on my wife's Jeep and I was down to the last part and I kept repainting the fender and it wasn't matching anything else and I rushed for several days and at the last minute after repainting THREE times, I realized the paint shop gave me the wrong mixture and the Jeep was leaving for Texas for three months with my Mom and she made a smart-ass comment just playing around at the wrong moment about me not knowing what I was doing... and I kinda lost it and well, the fender didn't make it, lol! That was the last time. I don't like paying for new stuff because of an attitude problem lol... so when we went to a mechanic-friend's house in my truck (with trailer in tow) to pick up the same Jeep after the work was completed - we found that we forgot the straps 30 miles away. So my brother and this mechanic "friend" left to a 24-hour walmart to buy some plain-Jane ratchet straps. They were gone for THREE hours while I was stuck there with a car on the trailer with no straps and no help to do anything else. I got out and started pacing and cussing and finally sat down on the edge of the trailer trying to calm down and when I looked up the front end that was supposed to have been welded together where the control-arm meets the frame... I found nothing but holes and cottage cheese and only one side had been done!!!! It wasn't road-safe! See, the wife hit a dear and slid into a ditch on ice and it bent the bracket that the control-arm attaches to on the uni-body. I bought some aftermarket brackets from an off-road site. Apparently this is a common issue with Laredos. ANYway, he was supposed to have it done over the weekend. Grind off the old sheet-metal bracket and weld on the new solid-steel 1/2" thick bracket on both sides. Three weeks later - this is what I find. Only one side done (which he later said was because only one side was bent) but that wasn't the point. I bought two. I paid for two to be put on. Preventative care! So I'm sitting there staring at the job that was only partially completed and half-assed at that. It was horrible. I stood up and walked over to the hitch and dropped the trailer where it was at in the middle of his yard and peeled out and drove over part of his porch and flower bed and fence and got a block away on the one-way-street and here he comes with my brother around the corner. I stop and blow up on him and ask wtf was going on. Apparently, they ran into an old friend some "good dope" and thought they would only be a minute and didn't mean to take so long. They didn't even have the straps. I went after him and he sped off. I slowly walked back to my truck and got in and drove back to his place to end him. I stood in the driveway for a minute and decided against jail. When I got back in the truck - I slammed the door. I slammed it so hard that when I got home, I had a hard time opening it.

It's been messed up ever since. I know, long story - though one you might enjoy or at least get some entertainment value out of. But that's the only time I "hurt" my truck, lol! And I just couldn't help it. Better that door than my brother and my "friend". I haven't spoken to either since and the door has been a constant reminder for the last 8 months.

That wasn't supposed to be that long-winded lol... my bad! So I'm going now. Gonna go fix my door finally!
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  #9  
Old 08-27-2013, 11:36 PM
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Got the door fixed... turns out I found the door I thought was scrapped hiding behind one of my Eagles in the barn! It had the latch mechanism I needed!

AC has been fully evacuated and tested for leaks, and re-charged converted to 134a. Unfortunately, I still don't have cold air. The compressor is fine. I think my problem is in the dash with the heater control unit and/or blower motor because I'm having other issues as well. Ugh!

I still need to replace the gasket on the rear diff. And she now needs a new tranny filter. She's leaking and it's due for a tranny flush anyway. Probably never been done before. :/

BUT that's not the biggest problem.... I've been having a serious problem with her moving super slow. I can never pass anyone! I know she's low-geared and not meant to be a "racer" but that Cummins 5.9 should be able to smoke those doolies at least in the gravel with little to no effort.... no. Not at all. I did find an issue down by the tranny in the linkage - where I see a broken/stressed clip and I don't think the over-drive is kicking in properly when you mash the petal to pass someone or just to haul ass. But, even with some tinkering - nothing has changed.

So I noticed my turbo wasn't whistling very loud... then I realized it wasn't whistling at all! I had a buddy look at it and he could tell when I pulled up that my turbo just isn't working. He said it would make a HUGE difference in performance. My thoughts are "Does the extra 70-80hp the turbo gives it REALLY give it that much more power???"

Can you guys chime in here for me?
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