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  #31  
Old 08-21-2013, 12:39 PM
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You will most likely rub at full lock. The only way to get around that running tires that big is to go with aftermarket rims.

Some of it is an experience thing but obviously the number and measurement side of it is huge as well. Most things are easy to calculate as long as you understand where the numbers are coming from and what clearances are required. A good thing to know is what backspacing you get with different wheel widths/offsets. HERE is a link to the chart I use. From there you can crutch most of the numbers but again, the experience of knowing what fits and what doesn't plays in to it.
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  #32  
Old 08-21-2013, 02:40 PM
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Fair enough. If I were going to avoid rub at full lock I'm gathering that 1" spacers would work? Did you have any rub at full lock with yours before the 6" lift? I remember my Dakota was 4x4 and stock all around but I got the tiniest bit of rub at full lock and wasn't crazy about it...I know it's not a HUGE deal but it was a little thing that bothered me. Long story short I don't recall what size of tire I had on them.

I'd be OK going to -12mm (via spacers or aftermarket wheels) like you did, but if it was still going to rub I'd just as soon go down a little in tire size and go with maybe 34's or 33.8's (converting from metric) maybe down to 12" width or something. I'd love to say I might put a lift on it at sometime (aside from the leveling kit which I AM getting) but it really barely fits in the garage (height-wise) as it is, so a lift would probably make it just a bit too tall (I have less than 6" of clearance right now).

Also, I apologize if this sounds a little stupid, but any chance you could elaborate on that chart you linked? I just don't follow it all too clearly. Going to look more closely at it tonight as well.

Last edited by JDPatrick; 08-21-2013 at 02:43 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:00 PM
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Yes, with 1" spacers you shouldn't get any rub at all.

I did have a slight amount of rub near full lock on the back of the inner fender. I ended up taking the plastic trim pieces off and then tied back the plastic inner fender slightly to get rid of it. There's pictures on that in my wheel/tire thread if you want to see what I'm talking about.

Yes, downsizing slightly is definitely an option as well. There are lots of metric sizes that will work nicely. But if you do plan on doing a lift eventually I would definitely recommend going with the 35x12.5's. Otherwise your tires will look too small when you lift it.
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  #34  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:23 PM
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You guys have all been a WHIRLWIND of help. I cannot explain how much. Last topic for the moment (I'm sure I'll think of others) if I do the Bilsteins on the front and just go with 2.5" to start (since I'm not spending 1.5k on tires anytime real soon)

1. Would it look ridiculous?

2. Should I just go up to maybe 1 or 1.5" since I wont be doing the bigger tires yet?

3. How difficult is it to ADJUST the Bilsteins? (I believe you have to remove them)

4. Should I just go 2.5 and deal with it till I can get the tires?

I personally don't think it will look ridiculous with an extra 2.5" in front end clearance and stock tires but I have never seen one from the side profile. I'll look back at your posts in case there is/are pics that I missed, but do you have any of your truck with the 2.5" level and stock tires?
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  #35  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:35 PM
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Looking at your tire post I think in the before shots it has the level kit (Bilsteins) on it already right?
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  #36  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:37 PM
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Nope, it won't look ridiculous at all. But what you should do before deciding what height to go with is measure your fender heights now. Not all trucks come exactly the same from the factory. Once you find out how much rake you have you can determine what to set the Bilsteins at to sit level. Keep in mind you want to retain at least 0.5" of rake to avoid looking nose high. You'll be setting the Bilsteins at either 2.1" or 2.8"

Definitely go for the full height right off the bat. It will look fine and to lift them later is a bit of a pain. They have to be completely disassembled to change it. The struts have to come out of the truck, spring compressed, top retainer taken off, spring taken off, bottom retainer taken off, and then you can change the height of the snap ring that adjusts the height.

Here's a picture of my truck with just the 2.5" level and the stock 17's with 31" tires:

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  #37  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:45 PM
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Oops accidently posted on your tire page lol, but yeah, looks great with even just the 2.5" level on front.

You answered my question as I was typing!

Did you end up going with 2.8" right off the bat for yours?

Exactly where am I measuring and what should I be looking for?

Last edited by JDPatrick; 08-21-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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  #38  
Old 08-21-2013, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDPatrick View Post
Looking at your tire post I think in the before shots it has the level kit (Bilsteins) on it already right?
Yes, the picture you posted a link to there (same one as above) is when I had the 2.5" level on it. At that time I used the Hell Bent Steel leveling spacer. But I highly recommend going with the Bilsteins. I'm now using them with my lift and love the ride quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDPatrick View Post
Oops accidently posted on your tire page lol, but yeah, looks great with even just the 2.5" level on front.

You answered my question as I was typing!

Did you end up going with 2.8" right off the bat for yours?

Exactly where am I measuring and what should I be looking for?
As stated above it was a solid 2.5" spacer, not Bilsteins. But the Bilsteins at 2.8" will settle slightly to about 2.6" so essentially the same.

Measure from the ground to the top of each wheel well. You're looking for the difference in height from front to back.
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  #39  
Old 08-21-2013, 04:07 PM
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I will be out there with my tape in 20 minutes lol thanks again for all your help.
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  #40  
Old 08-21-2013, 04:18 PM
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Just a quick note regarding belts. A true good quality rubber belt will not slip when wet, as opposed to the cheaper composite belts. A good test is to pour some water over the belt while the engine is idling, if it squeals like a pig, its not a quality rubber belt.

Good luck on the leveling, I'm going the other way and lowering my rear.

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