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Oil Change Ready to change the oil in your Dodge Ram? Engine -Trans - Differential - Transfer Case


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  #21  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hermes1 View Post
Care to elaborate? Curious to know how Mobil1 "cost two diffs and engine in your jeeps". I am using Amsoil now, but I have and many others as well have used Mobil1 with good success. Mobil1 typically comes out near the top in many of the test comparisons I have read over the years.

The two diffs were lost due to overheating because the oil could not transfer heat away from the ring gears and bearings. Mobiles parent company paid for the replacement of the first one. After the second one I switched oils. The engine was toasted due to burnt bearings as the oil failed to film properly.

I know, "there are tons of other things that could cause that", "Bad install", etc. All installs were done professionally and all failures were examined by multiple professional shops (hence why mobile paid for the first diff). Bottom line is their oil is very low teir in the synthetic realm, they just have great advertising. Look at the testing done by most independant companies.

And for all of you that still dont believe, well thats your choice as not using mobile is mine. After all, everyone here bad mouths frams filter....but how many have actually had one fail?
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2013, 10:21 AM
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I've run nothing but the lowest priced dino oil, or gear lube in my equipment, including my race cars, that ran circle track, full power 400hp+, lap after lap after lap. Never had an engine or rear end fail due to lubrication issues. Right now I've got Mobile-5000 in my truck ($10 for 5 qts) with Purolator P1 filter, and I don't even have the hemi tick....
If you're burning up engines and multiple rear ends, I think you have something else going on.
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  #23  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
I've run nothing but the lowest priced dino oil, or gear lube in my equipment, including my race cars, that ran circle track, full power 400hp+, lap after lap after lap. Never had an engine or rear end fail due to lubrication issues. Right now I've got Mobile-5000 in my truck ($10 for 5 qts) with Purolator P1 filter, and I don't even have the hemi tick....
If you're burning up engines and multiple rear ends, I think you have something else going on.

So your two or three decades of "experience" tells you that more than half a dozen mechanics, with over a century of combined experience, modern testing equipment, an independent lab, and in at least one situation the manufacturer themselves, are all wrong. Well damn, why thank you, I should have just come to you first and saved all that time!

All that said, you did bring up a valid point. For some reason most synthetics will not transfer heat as well as regular dino. In a hi heat application or where oil is used as a coolant (weather primary or secondary function) a quality dino or synth blend may be a better choice.
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  #24  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:08 PM
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I don't run synthetic, including Mobil 1, but I know millions have, so maybe that has some thought merit- if you're the logical type? Your mechanics are tied to a 3 time failure story, so why should their "opinion" be weighted more than mine or anyone else that has had success? I usually listen to people who have success, not the other way around.

Remember before you get sarcastic- You're the one burning up engines and rear ends, not me.
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  #25  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
I don't run synthetic, including Mobil 1, but I know millions have, so maybe that has some thought merit- if you're the logical type? Your mechanics are tied to a 3 time failure story, so why should their "opinion" be weighted more than mine or anyone else that has had success? I usually listen to people who have success, not the other way around.

Remember before you get sarcastic- You're the one burning up engines and rear ends, not me.

And I know millions that have run fram filters without a single failure, yet most bad mouth them. Your also assuming it was the same mechanics or that all of these happened at the same time (or a close time frame) this was spread out over several years. And yes their opinion is weighted much more than yours, nothing against you personally, but I know their background, experience, training, reputation, quality of work, etc. I know nothing of you (besides we share a love of quality trucks!). Its like you saying because you have built 3-4 rear axles over your years that you are better than the guy that has been doing it for 30+ years, building thousands of rearends. Sure, he has had a few go bad, some from his mistakes, most from various other factors, but because your 3-4 are still running your the expert not him.

By the way, if we are going off your version of success, then there isn't an NHRA team out there that can build an engine worth a damn, they blow up all the time.
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  #26  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:19 PM
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Just got my case of Amsoil signature series 0W20, delivered to my front door by Bully's. That and a UAP Napa gold filter is what my HEMI gets.
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  #27  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by battlerattle View Post
And I know millions that have run fram filters without a single failure, yet most bad mouth them. Your also assuming it was the same mechanics or that all of these happened at the same time (or a close time frame) this was spread out over several years. And yes their opinion is weighted much more than yours, nothing against you personally, but I know their background, experience, training, reputation, quality of work, etc. I know nothing of you (besides we share a love of quality trucks!). Its like you saying because you have built 3-4 rear axles over your years that you are better than the guy that has been doing it for 30+ years, building thousands of rearends. Sure, he has had a few go bad, some from his mistakes, most from various other factors, but because your 3-4 are still running your the expert not him.

By the way, if we are going off your version of success, then there isn't an NHRA team out there that can build an engine worth a damn, they blow up all the time.
Maybe this would be a good time to ask what the vehicle/applications was that you were melting parts in- a top fuel dragster? If that's the case It's out of my experience league.
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  #28  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
Maybe this would be a good time to ask what the vehicle/applications was that you were melting parts in- a top fuel dragster? If that's the case It's out of my experience league.

JeepSpeed Cherokee and a Custom Built Rock Buggy

EDIT:

The Cherokee was built to see some abuse, which is why a "high quality" synthetic was used. I will give you that one may be the exception to the rule, but several major shops all came to the same conclusion, oil failure (failure to film properly to be precise). As for the axles, well there is more to it than that. I am not going to write out the whole long drawn out story, but needless to say I have used 3 major off-road axle builders in my area (Komifornia) and talked to several others and they all refuse to use Mobile in their axle builds, they have seen multiple oil related failures because of it. As stated above several actually refuse to use any synthetics in their axles (a hard $$$$ lesson for me) because of the heat transfer issue, but the consistent was don't use mobile 1. The few that recommended a synthetic recommended either Royal Purple or RedLine.

I now use royal purple fluids in the engine and transmission and Lucas non synthetic for diffs and have had no more issues.
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Last edited by battlerattle; 09-09-2013 at 07:48 PM.
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  #29  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:44 PM
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I was hoping it wasn't something pedestrian like that.
I know you don't value my wisdom, but I'll give it anyway:
The friction bearing surfaces of a vehicle's engine, tranny and rear end should be designed and assembled to run with AVERAGE quality lubricants. In the expectation of racing, or harsh above normal loads, the design would include at least: increased clearances for thermal growth, increase contact bearing areas, and of course heat dissipation. Anyone running a race car or other high load vehicle that has success either understand this or plain got lucky.
I'm curious, In what fashion did Mobil concede to you that they sold a defectively designed product? Can you share?
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  #30  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:57 PM
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BattleRattle, I once ran ATF in my rear end for a 25 lap race to have less fluid drag.
No failure. The outer rear end steel was hotter than hell after the race though.
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