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Oil Change Ready to change the oil in your Dodge Ram? Engine -Trans - Differential - Transfer Case


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  #31  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:01 PM
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battlerattle battlerattle is offline
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
I was hoping it wasn't something pedestrian like that.
I know you don't value my wisdom, but I'll give it anyway:
The friction bearing surfaces of a vehicle's engine, tranny and rear end should be designed and assembled to run with AVERAGE quality lubricants. In the expectation of racing, or harsh above normal loads, the design would include at least: increased clearances for thermal growth, increase contact bearing areas, and of course heat dissipation. Anyone running a race car or other high load vehicle that has success either understand this or plain got lucky.
I'm curious, In what fashion did Mobil concede to you that they sold a defectively designed product? Can you share?

I called their customer service line and asked how I would go about filing a claim for their product failing. Got the run around for about a day then got connected with a customer satisfaction rep. My axle builder wrote up his report (he is ASE certified Master Mechanic) and then Mobile asked me to send the lot number of the oil I used. I still had a bottle from the case (the axle had only a few hundred miles on it). I was then asked to have it taken to a third party of which we agreed on (another highly recommended shop not to far from me) and they came to the same conclusion. At this time the oil sample report came back from the lab and I included that as well. I got a call back about three days later stating they would pay for my original builder to rebuild the diff.

All in all it was a wash, the amount I spent towing the rig around was about what a rebuild would have cost. They never "admitted" fault, but they did pay for the rebuild. At this point I was actually excited as it seemed they stood behind their product, which is why I used it again. When the second one failed for the same reason I took it to a completely different shop to get a completely unbiased opinion. They came up with the same diagnosis. I weighed the thought of going for round two, but decided after the first time that I would still be out the cost of a rebuild just going from shop to shop.

As for the jeepspeed, you are right on with the engine build advice, but rules say the engine must be stock (well at the time they did, they now allow some bolt on mods) and they will tear them down occasionally. Its all about keeping the cost competitive as the average guy is supposed to be able to get into it for $5-8k including a vehicle and modifications (cage, suspension, safety equip. etc.)
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  #32  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:08 PM
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battlerattle battlerattle is offline
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battlerattle is a jewel in the roughbattlerattle is a jewel in the roughbattlerattle is a jewel in the rough
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
BattleRattle, I once ran ATF in my rear end for a 25 lap race to have less fluid drag.
No failure. The outer rear end steel was hotter than hell after the race though.
What gear ratio, vehicle weight, etc. 5.13 gears turning 40" tires on a 60 degree climb can generate a lot of heat!

That said I once ran a front axle dry for over 50 miles (well, assembly lube on the bearings). Ran great, parked it and next morning it refused to move. The front ring and pinion had welded themselves together. I actually still have them in a box somewhere!
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  #33  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:12 PM
Red-Stripe Red-Stripe is offline
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All right, you wore me down. I won't prod into your M1 failure culprit any further, but then again I'll probably always run cheap dino, which has served me without failure.
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  #34  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:18 PM
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battlerattle battlerattle is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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Engine: 2009-20?? 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 390hp 407lb/ft
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battlerattle is a jewel in the roughbattlerattle is a jewel in the roughbattlerattle is a jewel in the rough
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Originally Posted by Red-Stripe View Post
All right, you wore me down. I won't prod into your M1 failure culprit any further, but then again I'll probably always run cheap dino, which has served me without failure.

I grew up on Castrol gtx! I use synthetics now because I like the longer service intervals and the greater amount of detergents. And one of my vehicles actually requires a synthetic (so does my lawn mower actually???). The oils aren't the same over the last 5-10 years, a lot of the components have been removed for "environmental" reasons, IMO leading to oil failures being more common.
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