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  #1  
Old 11-29-2012, 03:36 PM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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Default Intermittent miss

I have a 95 V-10, 145000 miles. Usually runs great but lately has developed a very bad miss to the point there is no power. It sounds like the timing is about 180 off, but if i"m patient it will come back and run fine. All I can think of is a coil pack, camshaft, or crankshaft sensor going bad, possibly the PCM, just wondered if anybodt else has run into this. Any input is apreciated.
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:27 PM
Fisher Dave Fisher Dave is offline
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The 1st thing I would do is have your battery tested. I had the same problem on my 94 this fall and the battery was the culprit.

The 2nd thing to check is your ignition switch, I just had this problem friday morning when the truck was acting a little funny all week, I started it up friday and it kept stalling and the check engine light came on and gave me 6 new codes? It was giving me relay codes and coil codes which made it obvious there was major electrical failure somewhere.. I changed out the $35 ignition switch in the local parts store parking lot in about 15 minutes and the truck hasnt missed a beat and runs better than it ever has now. I really took a shot in the dark by replacing it after I learned they have such a history of failure on the 94 - 95 models.

I did some research after another member here suggested an ignition switch and learned on the 94 - 95 model years there is a factory recall on the ignition and head light switches. The dealership will wire in a bypass and some relays to resolve the situation. Your blower motor draws power through the ignition and tends to overheat it when run on high for extended periods of time.

I replaced my switch and my truck has an appointment tuesday morning at the dealership to do the recall work, to me its piece of mind knowing my switch is good.

No guarantee these are your problems, but Id absolutely look at those 1st
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:40 PM
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This could very well be a converter clogging up, too.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:43 PM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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Thanks guys, I will go the ignition switch route and investigate the recall with my local dealer. The previous owner had just installed a new exhaust from the manifold back to the muffler to include 2 new converters. I am prety sure they are still good as ther is only about 20,000 miles on them.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:59 AM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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I can't believe how bad my spelling was in those last two post's. Better double check this time,
I did the key thing diagnostic and got 2 codes, a 12-Problem with battery connection-direct battery input to PCM disconnected within last 50 ignition key on cycles and a 43-Peak primary circuit current not achieved with max dwell time, i'm not even sure what that is. Can anybody tell me?
I am going to go out on a limb and assume the battery may have a bad cell or 2 and that may be causing the code 12, and maybe the ignition switch may have something to do with the dwell. I will let you know.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:43 PM
Fisher Dave Fisher Dave is offline
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The battery health, battery cable connections, and ignition switch has have everything to do with what your describing. These together are the *root* of your engine electrical system.

Take your battery to the local parts store and have them test it. Im assuming your not running a lawnmower battery in that V10. A worthy replacement is going to cost you in the $100 range minimum, so its worth a little of your free time to have it tested.

My truck (94 V10) is currently sitting at the dealership getting the ignition switch wiring recall dealt with. From what I understand from what I was told and read they will replace the ignition switch if neccessary during the recall work.. Hard to argue with FREE and theres a significant chance it will resolve your problem..

Your positive and negative battery cables are dealership only and discontinued. The (+) Cable has 2 heavy hot leads, one going to the starter and the other goes to the relay box under the hood, and there is a smaller 14ga wire lead going to the solenoid of your starter. Your ( - ) cable is a bigger pain in the neck, it has a 10ga body ground, and the 2 gauge heavy cable runs into a wire harness on top of the engine where it mysteriously breaks down into smaller leads and grounds to various brackets and locations near your alternator and thermostat housing.. and wherever else the intoxicated engineer thought he should put a ground a good pair of xray goggles would have a hard time finding. Plan on putting some free time aside if your going to replace the cables because your going to have to make your own unless yor dealership has leftover stock on the 94-95 V10 models.

As others have stated there could be mechanical failures going on also causing your issue, but you do have electrical problems and you need to resolve those 1st because a brand new engine is going to run bad if the electrics are failing or have intermittent signal at best.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:49 AM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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I tested the battery yesterday with a multimeter, had 12.49 volts, gonna put put a load test on it today, see how it does. I will also call my local dealership and check on the recall. I'll let you all know. This is too much fun.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2012, 09:57 PM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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Ok, I broke down and took the ol' Dodge to the dealer, the ignition recall was already taken care of, but the mechanic did say there was pieces of my cat converter coming out of the tail pipe and for $900.00 he could put 2 new ones on and then re-diagnose. I politley declined, went to Auto Zone, purchased 2 Hush Thrush mufflers, cut everything off from just in front of the cats and replaced it all with just the mufflers. It sure does sound different, not sure if it's a better sound, just diferent. Took it for a short test drive, seemed to have a little more pep, my daughter was visiting and she says she either heard my pick-up or a couple off motorcycles, Hmmmmm? Any way, i'll take it for a longer drive out in the desert on Sunday and let you all know how it did.
Aside from my labor, I spent about $60.00 on parts, sure beets $900.00.
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2012, 01:40 AM
Big Bob Big Bob is offline
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Ok, the exhaust was not the problem. I drove to work (23 miles) no problem, on the way home from work though it did the same thing all over again, only louder this time. I did see some corrosion on the positive battery cable so i'll check on that in the morning. What I would really like to know is what that code 43 actually means in terms I can understand.
Any takers?
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:54 PM
99 V10 99 V10 is offline
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I can't help with the code, but the removal of the cats are not a good thing. Anytime I did something like that I had troubles. The cats play an important role in the trucks performance. I have bought new aftermarket cats for around $125 ea. Magnaflow brand.
Without your cats you can cause issues from your O2 sensors.
My 5.9 Jeep GC ran awful when I pulled the cat on it because of a plug.
So something to think about. Living in Arizona you can run aftermarket cats. Don't you have smog in Buckeye? It is in Maricopa County.
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