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  #551  
Old 05-20-2014, 12:14 AM
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brandonjansen brandonjansen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arth View Post
No I just have this steering stabilizer. I would guess this will have to be removed since I imagine the sway bar has to be manipulated

http://www.custom-diesel.com/dodge-p...lizer-4x4.html
Okay this is what I thought you had. Steering box brace... Different than a dual steering stabilizer. You won't have any issues with that, they don't need to touch the sway bar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamanhart View Post
10-4 man that is still total crap, all because someone feels the need to be lazy prick and ruin everyone elses good time real sorry to hear about that

But on the up shot im rather excited to hear that your spacers are at least in the country
Ya definitely not a great start to my Saturday. Especially because it was already a pain booking it in on a Saturday.

But yes I'm pretty excited about that as well. Just checked again and it said they've cleared customs and are going out for delivery so I'm hoping they'll show up tomorrow. If so I'll spend tomorrow evening putting them on and going over the entire lift again to make sure everything is tight. Then wash it up later in the week and get some good pictures to finish the write up.
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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's
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  #552  
Old 05-20-2014, 11:38 AM
Laffs Laffs is offline
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Brutal deal on the dealership. My buddy is a tech at local dealer, they lift trucks/add tuners for their customers and dont say boo when they bring them in for warranty or service. In their eyes if thats what makes the customer happy and gets them to buy a new truck from them and keep coming for service they do it.
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  #553  
Old 05-21-2014, 01:43 AM
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Well the wheel spacers did show up and are on the truck. So here's a little teaser for now until I can clean the truck up later this week and take some good pictures of it.


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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's
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  #554  
Old 05-21-2014, 02:56 AM
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That's a much better stance. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up
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  #555  
Old 05-21-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kcbigbadram View Post
That's a much better stance. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up
Ya I'm definitely happy with it for now, makes the truck look a lot more proportional being wider with the amount of height I have. I can see myself going wider when I put aftermarket wheels on though. Especially if I end up putting pocket flares on it.
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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's
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  #556  
Old 05-21-2014, 02:37 PM
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Nice man, great stance. Looking forward to final pics.
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  #557  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:09 PM
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Default 8" BDS Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks and 37x13.5 Toyo MT's

First off I need to say thanks to Eric at Bully’s Performance for the countless emails him and I have sent back forth regarding the lift and components dating back to January. He was always very fast to respond (I generally had a reply within half an hour of emailing him) and was very cooperative in working through some of the custom setups and different ideas that I had. I’m very happy with the service he provided (along with the rest of the Bully’s Performance team) and the product(s) I ended up with.

Products:
• 8” BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks
o 8” progressive rate front coils
o 5” rear blocks
o Transfer case indexing ring
• Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer
o BDS dual steering stabilizer mounting kit
o 2 – Fox 2.0 shocks
• Hell Bent Steel Steering Box Brace
• Motorsport Tech 2” B.O.R.A. hub centric wheel spacers
• 37x13.5r17 Toyo Open Country MT’s


Technical Info:
• Stock Heights:
o 38.875 38.875
o 42.000 42.750
o Roof: 78.875 (6’-6 7/8”)
• 8” Lift with 37’s Heights:
o 49.000 48.875
o 50.125 50.000
o Roof: 88.000 (7’-4”)
• Poke (past the flares - add 1" for past fender value):
o 2.5” 1.5”
o 2.0” 2.0”
Installation:
I started on the install Wednesday night (April 16) as I had Thursday and Friday off work as part of the Easter long weekend. I had started some of the prep work the few days prior to get the shop temporarily set up to install the lift (we don’t have our shop fully up and running yet as we just moved into this house a few months ago and have some reno plans for the shop before we fully set it up). So I had enough tools and equipment in there to get going. Obviously the first step was getting the truck up on jack stands as high as possible. I built some blocks out of 2x12’s screwed together to gain the extra height I wanted. You’ll see in the pictures that I also had to use a number of blocks on top of the floor jack in order to reach the truck.
Transfer Case Indexing:
We started by pulling the wheels and tires off and then decided the first task at hand would be installing the transfer case indexing ring which rotates the transfer case 10 degrees down for a better front drive shaft angle. First we pulled both the front and rear drive shafts, followed by the wiring harness going up to the transfer case. We then supported the transmission and pulled the transmission cross member and cross member bracket. From there we loosened off all the transfer case bolts. One of the top ones is definitely not the easiest to get at. I ended up getting it with a swivel head ratchet wrench but it wasn’t easy. We then hand bombed the transfer case down and out of the truck (do-able if you have two strong guys but you won’t want to be supporting it for a long amount of time). We removed all the studs from the transfer case by tightening two nuts together on each stud and then installed the indexing ring and studs with the supplied hardware and red Loctite.






I then got back under the truck and pulled the rear transmission seal, put in the new seal spacer (fits right into where the seal came out of), and then installed a 48rfe rear seal into the backside of the spacer. From there we hand bombed the transfer base back up into place, threw the nuts on and tightened it up and called it a night.

Rear Lift Install:
Thursday I was by myself for the majority of the day (as my friend at to work) so I decided to tackle the rear lift since that’s something I could do alone. I started by removing the rear diff vent, brake line bracket, and shocks. I then removed the U-bolts from the passenger side, dropped the rear diff down and installed the 5” lift block, and then installed the new U-bolts just snugging up the nuts. That process was then repeated on the driver’s side. Installing the new Fox 2.0 shocks on the back was a bit of a task as they don’t like to compress very easily… I ended up having to use a pry bar and a long screw driver to compress the shock to get the lower mount into place and bolted up.

At this point in the day I needed to go take my stock wheels and tires to the shop to have my new 37x13.5r17 Toyo MT’s mounted on them (I already made the arrangements to have the tires there waiting). While the tires were being mounted and balanced I ran down to Sumas, WA to pick up my wheel spacers as they had just come in that morning. I then went back to the tire shop and picked up my wheels and tires. They were able to balance them by just putting weights on the backside which I was happy and surprised about. I wanted to keep weights off the front of the wheel if possible (just because it looks better) but I didn’t expect that to happen with these big tires.




When I got home I ran into the first problem of the install…. The wheel spacers didn’t fit. OH: So I got out the tape measure and sure enough, they were the wrong bolt pattern. I contacted Lenny and Motorsport Tech right away to talk to him about the issue. What ended up happening is that two shipping labels got mixed up so I got spacers for a Ford and that guy got mine. It’s ended up being quite the hassle getting the proper spacers; if you want to know the full story check out posts #473-517 on my build thread.

Anyways, I continued on by throwing the wheels on the truck, letting it down onto the tires, and then tightening up all the U-bolts. I couldn’t get them to an exact torque since they protruded through the nuts too far for a deep socket. So I used the double wrench method for more leverage and got them as tight as the stock ones came off; good enough for me.

continued on post 558...
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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's

Last edited by brandonjansen; 05-22-2014 at 01:34 PM.
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  #558  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:10 PM
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Front Lift Install:
Around 7:00 my friend showed up so we started working on the front install. We started by putting the long arm brackets up into place so we could mark the holes on the frame and drill them out. Getting those heavy brackets up in place and getting the bolts through was no easy task… At one point I dropped one back on myself and took a good chunk of skin/flesh out of my elbow blocking it. We ended up having to use the floor jack to force them up in place and drive the transmission cross member bolts through. From there we marked the holes, took the long arm brackets back off, center punched the holes, and then drilled them out to 11/16” with a step bit. I then went to install the 8 rivnuts in the frame and transmission cross member. Here’s where the problems started… First off BDS didn’t supply a bolt specific for installing the rivnuts; they expected you to use the bolt that actually holds the bracket on. Well those bolts aren’t really long enough for that, they don’t grab all of the threads through the washer and install nut. But I didn’t have another bolt that was the right size and thread so that’s what we had to use. I installed all 8 thinking they were good to go so we threw one of the brackets up there to bolt it on and sure enough, the rivnuts started spinning. So we tried tightening them up a bit more, wasn’t happening. No matter what we did we couldn’t get the rivnuts to seat. So by this point I decided we were going to grind some of the paint off the frame and tack weld the rivnuts to it to stop them from spinning which should let us get the bolts tight enough. So we did that and tried to install the bracket again. We then found out that the threads were too stretched out in a few of the rivnuts because of the install bolt being too short. I tried running a tap through them and managed to fix 2 of them but another 2 were too far gone. So we got out the grinder and ground the outer flange off two of them and took them out. I had one extra one that came with the kit but I needed one more. By this point it was around 11:15 at night so we called it quits.

Friday morning I went out to see if I could find another rivnut to install in the frame. Being Good Friday none of the big industrial supply shops were open and no automotive shops had anything near big enough. So I was SOL there… I ended up getting a piece of ready rod so we could make our own custom rivnut install tool so that we didn’t screw up the threads on the extra one I had. So I went home and grabbed my Dad and he and I started going at the truck again. We got the extra rivnut installed and tack welded to the frame and then put a coat of paint on the frame and rivnuts where we had ground it off. We then grabbed the long arm brackets and went to put them up on place. Again we had to use the floor jack to get the big cross member bolts through them. Then once those were in place I went to put the side ones into the frame. There were a few of them that weren’t lined up 100% (I’m assuming the bracket wasn’t sitting in quite the same place as it was when we marked the holes) and I couldn’t get the bolts in perfectly straight. So I got out the die grinder to machine out the holes in the brackets a little bit to make it all work. After another 20-30 minutes or so of messing around with that they were on. Overall I’d say we had around 6-7 hours into just installing those long arm brackets. It was a pain in the ass to say the least. So yes at the moment I’m missing one rivnut on the passenger side long arm bracket but with the 5 other huge bolts holding it on it isn’t going anywhere. Eventually I’ll probably get another rivnut and pull the bracket off to install it but for right now I’m not worried about it.

From there we started pulling the rest of the front end apart. I had already unbolted the track bar before I jacked up the truck so that was done. We removed the drag link, sway bar links, and sway bar (needed it off completely to install the steering box brace later). Unbolted the front shocks and then dropped down the front diff to remove the front springs and shocks.



We then installed the new Fox 2.0 shocks loosely to help support the front diff so we could remove the stock control arms. 3 of them came off no problem; the upper passenger side control arm however, was a problem. As soon as I looked at the bolt I knew we were going to have an issue. It went through the frame right beside the exhaust with only about a 1” gap between the exhaust and frame. We got the nut off the other side no problem but couldn’t feed the bolt back through the frame all the way to remove the control arm. So out came the die grinder again, this time with the cut off wheel on it and we cut the head of the bolt off so we could push the bolt back through the other way.

Installing the new control arms ended up being a 3 person job (luckily my step brother showed up for a bit to give us a hand). We had one guy holding the control arm and lining it up with the hole, one guy pulling or pushing on the front diff to help line it up, and one guy pushing up on the pinion to rotate it to the right angle. It was one of those things that took a lot of effort and a little time but overall went together really smoothly. From there we dropped down the front diff again and removed the shocks so we could install the new front coils (along with the shocks). We then installed the Hell Bent Steel steering box brace along with the front sway bar, the new drop pitman arm, the new sway bar links, and the track bar drop bracket. Again, all of that went together no problem. We then removed the stock steering stabilizer and cut the brackets off the front diff to make room for the new dual setup. This is where we ran into one more little fitment issue. The brackets that BDS supplied to fit into slots in the front diff were too wide to seat properly. So out came the grinder again to start grinding off the sides of the bracket to get them to slide in. We finally got those in and bolted up, bolted up the new bracket onto the tie rod and installed the steering stabilizers. After that it was just a matter of reinstalling the drag link and track bar. I then threw the front wheels back on and let the truck back down onto the ground.



From there I just had to go through all the front end nuts/bolts and torque everything to spec. That was a feat in itself. Getting the control arm bolts to 160/180 ft-lbs while lying under the truck was definitely a task… luckily I have a pretty long torque wrench and was able to either use my full body or leg as leverage or it wouldn’t have happened.

Wheel Spacer Install:
When the wheel spacers finally showed up (over a month after the lift was installed) I pulled the truck into the shop right away to get them on there. While I had the wheels off I checked over all the lift components to make sure everything was up to torque. To install the spacers I had to remove all the retaining rings that the factory puts on the studs to hold the calipers on. From there I slid the spacer on and then used the nuts that came with them along with red Loctite and torqued them to 140 ft-lbs. The wheels were then installed and torqued to 85 ft-lbs as per Motorsport Tech's specs.

Alignment:
I had an appointment to bring the truck in to Kal-Tire in Abbotsford on Saturday. So I showed up there just before 12:00 for the appointment and handed them the keys. Within a few minutes they had 3 of their techs out there looking at the truck, I assumed they were just checking it out. Well they ended up coming back into the office and told me they couldn’t do the alignment on my truck because my tires are too big. I know how most alignment machines work and have used them so that made absolutely no sense to me. So I went out and talked to the alignment tech directly to find out what was going on. The alignment machine they have uses cameras that point to each other across the truck. So they couldn’t get them far enough away from the rim with the 37’s. So I started calling around to every tire shop and dealership in the area to see if I could get it in. No dice…. So the alignment was going to wait. I wasn’t too worried about it anyway since the toe hadn’t been touched, the camber is unadjustable, so only the caster could be out and the drag link just needed to be adjusted to center the steering wheel. So I went home and adjusted the drag link myself to re-center the steering wheel and called it good. I was away all week for work so the truck was only driven to the airport and back. I then made an appointment at the tire shop I got my tires from (OK Tire) for the following Saturday.

When I brought it in there they got it in right away. The one issue we ran into there was that my truck was too tall…. They couldn’t put their hoist as high as they normally would because my hood would have hit the heater they had hanging from the ceiling. But it would work where it was at. Turns out that the caster was almost dead on where I set it. Close enough that they weren’t going to change it. They did adjust the toe slightly and then re-centered the drag link again and it was good to go.


Ride Quality:
I’ll be honest; at first I was fairly disappointed with the ride. When I first took it out it was a lot rougher than I expected it to be (rougher than stock). It wasn’t handling bumps in the road very well at all and even over the big bumps wasn’t as good as I thought it should have been. Since then it has definitely got a lot better. I think the springs and shocks just needed some time to break in a little bit. It’s still somewhat rough over certain bumps in the road, but it’s a 3500… that’s to be expected. Overall I’m pretty happy with how the front end is riding. The back end however is rougher than stock IMO. Obviously nothing has changed with the spring rate since it was only a block that was installed under it. But I think with the shocks being charged the way they are they’re pushing down fairly hard on the rear diff so with there not being a lot of weight on the back of the truck it’s pretty rough. I was running the rear tires at 55 psi at first as that’s what the tire shop put them at. Since then I’ve lowered them to 45 psi and it feels quite a bit better. Now that I’ve lowered the tire pressures all around and the truck’s had some time to break in I’m actually pretty happy with the ride.

I am excited to see how it feels with weight in the back end though. I’m going to be going on a bit of a road trip (550 km or so) pulling a 7500-8000 pound travel trailer in a month so that should be a pretty good test for it.
Handling:
I’m very happy with how the truck handles with all the new components installed. The steering box brace and dual steering stabilizers are definitely doing their job. The steering wheel feels firm and responsive and is very smooth throughout the turning radius. There’s obviously a bit of spongy-ness in the tires but that’s to be expected with 37” MT’s. Overall I like the feel of it better than stock.

The one thing that I will need to add to the truck yet (as some of you may have picked up on by seeing the front poke numbers) is an adjustable track bar to recenter the front axle. The track bar drop bracket isn’t quite enough for the full 8” lift. I’m going to BD Diesel’s Dyno Day this weekend so I’ll see if I can pick one up there.
Pictures:
I didn't end up washing the truck before taking pictures since it's supposed to end up raining here for the next few days. But it looks pretty clean on the pictures anyway. Ignore any dirt/crap you see.








continued on post 559...
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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's

Last edited by brandonjansen; 05-22-2014 at 01:43 PM.
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  #559  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:10 PM
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brandonjansen brandonjansen is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
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Trim Level: Laramie Limited
Color: Mineral Grey Metallic
Engine: 2011-20?? 409ci (6.7L) Cummins Turbo Diesel 350hp 800lb/ft
Rep Power: 8
Rep:1990
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Me standing in front of it for size comparison (I'm about 6'-0" tall):


100% stock compared to now:

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2012 Ram 3500 Laramie Limited Cummins Build Thread
8" BDS Long Arm Lift with Fox 2.0 Shocks | Dual Fox 2.0 Steering Stabilizer | 37x13.5 Toyo MT's | AMP Powersteps & Bedstep | Bakflip G2 | Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover | 5000K Morimoto HID's (lows and fogs)
H&S MiniMaxx Custom Tuned | 4" Flo Pro Stainless TBE | Sinister EGR Delete | ARP 425 Head Studs | 4.56 AAM/Yukon Gears | S&B Intake | Instagram: @brandonjansen
Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing for 06+ 4wd Ram 1500's
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  #560  
Old 05-22-2014, 01:33 PM
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DarthRam DarthRam is offline
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Vehicle: 2013 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
Trim Level: Sport
Color: Black
Engine: 2013-20?? 345ci (5.7L) Hemi V8 395hp 410lb/ft
Rep Power: 5
Rep:1534
DarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant futureDarthRam has a brilliant future
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Awesome job Brandon. What a great write up. Truck looks great. I speak for all the mechanicly declined when I say this literally gave me a queasy feeling in my stomach just thinking of attempting this level of mod.
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Magnaflow 14" Custom Install Bilstein 5100s Front Only Set at 2.8" Vararam Air Grabber Cravenspeed Stubby Antenna Dee Zee Tailgate Assist Billet Technology "The Punisher" Shift Knob Debadged doors and tailgate Plasti Dipped HEMI Badge The Punisher Grille and Tailgate Badges Exterior Chrome Delete 20" XD Series 795 Hoss LT305/55R20 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T Cabin Air Filter BAKFlip Roll-X Tonneau Cover
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