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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #21  
Old 09-05-2013, 07:29 PM
jbertulis jbertulis is offline
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Thanks for all the replies guys. At the end of the day the most that will be on my truck is an 18" muffler, throttle body, CAI, and maybe a tuner. After reading through this, I'm going to keep the stock t-stat.
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2013, 10:01 PM
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So I have a 180 tstat waiting for me to install .... guess I shouldn't now since I have a 2011.
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncgatorram View Post
So I have a 180 tstat waiting for me to install .... guess I shouldn't now since I have a 2011.
Install it, you'll be happy you did. No offense to the nay sayers but those who dissagree no nothing about emmisions or performance. If they did they would agree that a 180 tstat would help your engine all around from water, oil, ambient and transmission temps to rubber, plastics, hoses, and gaskets longivity....even aluminum. Think about it, you don't work on a hot aluminum engine because it becomes soft under high heat. Do you think it's cool for your aluminum heads to loose strength under high heat? Would you torque an aluminum head, intake or header bolts while it's hot? If you do you take a very high risk of stripping the bolts. You work on it when it's cool so you can torque them properly without stripping them. If you had an aluminum block you had better be running a 180 or better stat so why wouldn't you want to run one with aluminum heads. The reason why aluminum heads lift under pressure is because of the high heat (cylinder temp), not because of the pressure alone. That's why cast iron heads and blocks are favorite for high boost engines. It won't prevent over heating but it will help your engine stay cooler and perform better. You could not find a notable engine builder anywhere on this planet who would tell you any different. The only ONE reason auto makers use high temp tstats is to burn off illegal emissions and that's it, nothing else. They have no choice but to use them especially in high performance engines that use more fuel. They can build a fast car in todays world but they need high heat to burn off emmissions. In the old muscle car days emmissions did not matter so they ALL used lower tstats depending on the surrounding enviorment. If anything to protect your rubber, plastic, hoses, containers, wires...just about everything under the hood and around the heat use a 180 tstat. At the same time you will increase your engines performance all the way around. That includes wear on every moving and non moving part around the heat. It will NOT affect your computer or cause any codes to pop up and it will not void your warranty. Install it and be cool or don't and be hot, it's your baby.
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ncgatorram View Post
So I have a 180 tstat waiting for me to install .... guess I shouldn't now since I have a 2011.
Go ahead and install it and run it for a couple of fuel cycles. If it doesn't help any, you can always change it back.
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:52 PM
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Going to install it ... since I paid for it might was well try it out.
I track mpg's in a spreadsheet so I will be able to see if it has any impact on that. Currently avg 14.5 with a mix of hwy and around town driving.
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ncgatorram View Post
Going to install it ... since I paid for it might was well try it out.
I track mpg's in a spreadsheet so I will be able to see if it has any impact on that. Currently avg 14.5 with a mix of hwy and around town driving.
Excellent! Keep us posted as to how it goes. Reps for going through with it.
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncgatorram View Post
Going to install it ... since I paid for it might was well try it out.
I track mpg's in a spreadsheet so I will be able to see if it has any impact on that. Currently avg 14.5 with a mix of hwy and around town driving.
BTW, you don't need a tuner to run one. That was my first mod before I got my tuner and never had anything but good reads/results. Credit to most of the performance guys on here like BRH as the last one I saw remind us.... make sure you squeeze (milk) all the air out of the long radiator hose as you're re-filling your radiator. There have been occasions where people did not fiill their radiators up all the way because of the long hose and wound up with a high engine temp. Good luck.
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  #28  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:35 PM
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its really easy to do id say the hardest part is getting the thermostat back in because the rubber gasket is such a tight fit. i wouldnt say its hard at all though im just saying its so easy thats the most difficult part. what i did though was i took a very small amount of clean motor oil and lightly coated the contact part of the rubber gasket and applied even pressure all around until it slipped in. dont be alarmed when your tachometer needle doesnt go to the middle of hot and cold thats normal. mine sits at around 1/4th. let us know about your mpg when you find out
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  #29  
Old 09-06-2013, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RadioFlyer View Post
BTW, you don't need a tuner to run one. That was my first mod before I got my tuner and never had anything but good reads/results. Credit to most of the performance guys on here like BRH as the last one I saw remind us.... make sure you squeeze (milk) all the air out of the long radiator hose as you're re-filling your radiator. There have been occasions where people did not fiill their radiators up all the way because of the long hose and wound up with a high engine temp. Good luck.
I have a BD tuner and monitor temps with it ... I don't plan to change any parameters after install. I am running it with MDS enabled.
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  #30  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:50 PM
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I had the HemiFever tune with the stock t-stat and eventually ran a 180 as per Sean's recommendation. We're in that time of year now up in the mountains where it's 80 during the day and down to 40's at night. The main difference I've noticed with the switch, other than a slight increase in perceived throttle response, is fuel mileage with MDS off in the warmer weather around 45-55mph. Best I got with the stock stat was 22-22.5 being light on the throttle and coasting down the mountains as much as possible. With the 180 I, very surprisingly, have seen 22.5-23.5 which blew me away. I didn't even know she had it in her! I think the key, as it's already been said, is that I'm running a tune that is calibrated to run with the 180 stat.

All that being said, I am glad I made the switch. I was planning on doing a few trial tanks and then taking it back out. But it's been 1,000+ plus miles and I still haven't considered going back to stock.

Just my 2.5 cents...consider the extra .5 a bonus.
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