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  #1  
Old 08-03-2014, 07:38 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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Default MS-8 Install in 2014 Limited with 8.4AN

Thought I would create a build thread for folks that come after me that are considering an audio upgrade to their 2014 RAM that contains the "Premium" Alpine system with a 8.4AN HU.

After a bunch of reading, I opted for the JBL MS-8 over the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 because of two reasons:

1) MS-8 has an8 channel amp that drive the speakers allowing me to upgrade in slowly in measured steps rather adding new amps and speaker all at the same time.

and

2) The auto tune features are probably smarter than I am. I can always tweak personal preferences after it does most of the heavy lifting.

This is what I consider to be the problem that I am fixing.



Full details of the measurements are in this thread:

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?p=1439679
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:49 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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1st upgrade was replacing L and R dash speakers with Infinity REF 3032 speakers. Much better response with those speakers.

I recently compared the Infinity's to the OEMs outside of the vehicle. Don't try and compare levels from the measurements from the thread in the previous post since the signal levels and environment are different.



I found the soundstage much better with the Center disconnected. With the Center in place, I found that everything seemed to emanate from dead center of the dash.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:02 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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I gathered confidence from a few others on this forum after reading their threads.

1st was Topsub's thread. Holy crap batman! He is taking this thing seriously.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread....24#post1442724

Scooped had gathered some wiring information for his 2013.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread....17#post1382817

In a future post I will detail that I found my 2014 had slightly different connection information than the sources that he found.

And last but not least, is Dwhite and his custom sub enclosure.

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=176024

Last edited by dengland; 08-03-2014 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:21 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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I bought an MS-8 off of ebay for $260 and started studying how I was going to do the install. The two issues were how to connect to the factory wiring and where to actually mount the MS-8 with the thought that external amps are coming in the future.

Attacking the connecting to the factory harness problem, I located the amp under the dash. There are two connectors.







I looked for awhile for to find something to plug that would prevent me from having to cut factory wires. I possibly found the automotive connectors at Mouser Electronics, but ultimately decided that would not have the crimp tools to populate the pins and the sockets to make the needed harnesses. I gave up on that and resigned myself to cutting into the harness. I looked at several connector configurations but opted for bullet connectors so I could reconfigure if necessary.

The second issue was location. Back wall was my initial thought but I ended up underneath the rear seat for now. I wanted to be able to get at the MS-8 without removing the seat. It will be easy to change in the future.



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Old 08-03-2014, 10:53 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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It was obvious that Front Dash and Doors need to be summed to get full range. I will be using the high level inputs as input to the MS-8.

Planned Inputs:

1 Dash Left
2 Door Front Left
3
4 Dash Right
5 Door Front Right


Outputs planned:

1 Dash Left
2 Door Front Left
3 Center (Reconnecting it after reading the FAQ thread)
4 Dash Right
5 Door Front Right
6 Door Rear Left
7 Door Rear Right
8 Sub

I was not sure if I should pull the sub into the summation or not. This graph has the bass response with and without the sub.




As the folks here know, the truck has a Sub 1 and a Sub 2 according to the wiring diagram for the truck.

Per advice from Andy at the MS-8 Thread over at diymobileaudio, I skipped the sub input.

If I had to do it over again, I would do the speakers in the following order to minimize the up and down arrows on the MS-8 when tuning:

1 Door Front Left (FL Lo)
2 Dash Left (FL Hi)
3 Door Front Right (FR Lo)
4 Dash Right (FR Hi)
5 Center (Center)
6 Door Rear Left (SL)
7 Door Rear Right (SR)
8 Sub (Sub)

Be prepared to run a bunch of cycles of the tuning process. There are 10 variables that I am dealing with:

Subsonic Filter, Subsonic Slope, Sub/Front Xover, Sub/Front Slope, Front Lo/Hi Xover, Front Lo/Hi Slope, Center Hi Pass, Center Slope, Side Hi Pass Side Slope.

For now with the factory sub, I think I have zeroed in on the following:

Subsonic Filter =20Hz
Subsonic Slope = 12 dB/octave
Sub/Front Xover = 80Hz
Sub/Front Slope = 24 dB/octave
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:10 AM
dengland dengland is offline
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I created and routed wires for the above inputs and outputs.












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Old 08-03-2014, 12:09 PM
dengland dengland is offline
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Power was run along the left side of the vehicle.











Ground was done under the leg of the seat. Bolted down temporarily in this photo.


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Old 08-03-2014, 12:41 PM
Sixfive Sixfive is offline
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Thanks for the pix and useful links. I plan on doing doing a full aftermarket install on my Tradesman, just dont know what gear im going to run yet as im more of an spl kind of guy than sq but its time for me to dabble in SQ.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:24 PM
dengland dengland is offline
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After the signal cables were run and the power cables connected, there was nothing left to do but to cut into the factory wiring harnesses. This is where I got to the point of determining the wiring info from https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extr...ew/classic.htm is not correct.

For the 2014 (as seen on 7/19/14 anyway) model it shows this:



For the C1 connector, highlighted Pin 10 and 21 are supposed to be Left Rear door, but it is the left headliner instead. For clarification I/P means dash.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:27 PM
dengland dengland is offline
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Same sort of story for C2 connector. I/P still equals dash.



Pin 2 and 10 are the Right Headliner speaker.

Right Rear Door is Pin 4 and 12.
Left Rear Door is pin 5 and 13.

I chose not to believe the (+) and the (-) as listed. I definitely treated pin 5 as the positive. I believe I treated pin 4 as a positive. Before I ran out of daylight the other night, that made sense. Not sure I follow the logic while I am thinking more clearly. I need to verify the polarity definitively between the 6x9s and the sub.

Last edited by dengland; 08-03-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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