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Old 09-09-2013, 10:26 PM
eddied1 eddied1 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: rochester, NY
Age: 55
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Vehicle: 1996 ram 1500
Color: white/gray
Engine: 1994-1997 360ci (5.9L) Magnum V8 230hp
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Hey all. I have a few problems with my Ram. So here is the readers digest version:
About 2 months ago, my truck started acting up, wouldn't run, continual backfiring & stalling. Checked with a computer and bad cam shaft sensor was the code. So after new cam shaft sensor, new crankshaft sensor, new plugs & wires, still no go. Someone suggested to check fuel pump pressure. Was only 17 lbs, so purchased an aftermarket pump/sending unit, cleaned tank and installed and only was getting 23 or 24 lbs of pressure. The truck would idle but still backfired and didn't run great. That is when I noticed that I most def have a short somewhere. When brakes are applied the truck stalled, when I put it into reverse, the truck stalled. Without turning on the lights of any sort, the brake lights(or parking lamps) are on softly. When I pulled the fuses for the brake lights and the reverse lights, it didn't stall. I'm told its probably a ground. I have checked every ground i can find but to no avail. I did have the truck on the expressway at 70 mph but I had to accelerate slowly, if I gunned it, it would backfire and almost want to stall. So I'm about $800 in parts and labor(labor was done by a friend) its still not running right. I also bought a different aftermarket pump and installed it but got the same reading for fuel pump pressure, 23 - 24 lbs. Please, please, please help!!!! Any ideas and/or suggestions so greatly appreciated. Thanks all.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:54 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Vehicle: 95 & 98 1500 Ram 4x4s
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Engine: 1994-2001 318ci (5.2L) Magnum V8 220hp
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Sorry, I ain't no expert, but do you have a lift on that unit? The reason I ask, is I had a harness chafe thru on my 95, many years ago, and that caused a ton of grief, I have a 4" body lift on it. on a dark night, with help, you need a taillight observer and a creeper and a good flashlight, and start wiggling wires, you may get a spark, or you may get flickering dim taillights. You are definitely not receiving 13v at the fuel pump, and the cylinders are starving, at less than 35 PSI. I also had a left front t/s illuminated, and dim taillights, continuously. One other thing to do is pull your add on trailer plug, they connect behind the taillight lenses, the hoppy plug may be all green internally. Good luck!
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:35 AM
Warlock III Warlock III is offline
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I'm no expert either, but I did stay at a Quality Inn Express recently.

I'd personally check the ground to the rear lights and inspect any trailer wiring/harness that may be installed.

Unplug the rear lights and check the sockets for a melted connection. The wiring runs down the driver's side of the frame above the fuel tank. There may be corrosion or the wires may have gotten pinched if the tank was dropped instead of the bed being lifted for the fuel-pump replacement. It could be as simple as a rear bulb cross connecting in a melted socket. Pull the lights out of the rear and take it down the block and back.

If they don't return any results, I'd lean towards a neutral safety switch.
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:30 AM
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brondondolon brondondolon is offline
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i had a back fire issue and when id give it gas it would want to die on my 96 i had about 7 years ago. my issue turned out to be reverse polarities on my msd ignition though.

i wonder though maybe some one with more experience can tell me im wrong. hes saying that when he pushes on the break and puts it in reverse it stalls. could his coil be going out and giving just enough power to keep the truck running at idle but when there is a draw in power even though its only a little bit it causes an insufficient amount of spark to the distributor?

this seems like one of those issues that you could spend a ton of money on and in the end having to take it to a shop. one thing that i used to do when id be having trouble and couldnt figure out an issue is drop it off at a dealer for a $90 diagnosis the run some tests figure out the problem and then tell you exactly what it is then you go home and replace the bad part. thats what id do at least and its a lot cheaper haha hope you figure every thing out and let us know what you come up with.
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:19 PM
doctorg doctorg is offline
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Check out your fuel pressure regulator to be sure it is not stuck in a part open condition.
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