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JBA Headers Install

17K views 54 replies 11 participants last post by  BlackRamHemi 
#1 ·
So i should be getting my JBA Silver Ceramic Coated Headers early next week, picked them up from autoanything for $600 shipped and taxes in which is really good considering im in Canada.

Ive ordered the mopar gaskets as i heard the jba are felty crap ones and shouldnt be used. I also ordered an AEM wideband fuel/air guage and plan on welding that in place once the stock manifolds are removed.

I plan on doing the install next Saturday and im looking for time saving tips and pointers from experienced members on this forum. I know a few of you out there have done it before and i know of one that has done it a few times lol.

So is there anything i should look out for??

Where would be the best place to weld in the bung for the guage?
 
#3 ·
one of the ppl i was hoping would chime in lol thanks!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Found it:



http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=106126&page=6

I welded my wideband bung just after the cat, drivers side down pipe

I know it "should" have been pre-cat ideally, but the first O2 sensor was already there.

...and my Cat's are finally getting Gutted this weekend :D (rear O2's have been tuned out)
(If I don't buy a set of CatLess ARH LT's from Matt at Moes' today....just $1430!)

If you want to Data Log your A/F to a Diablo Tuner,
You'll want one of these too:

http://diablosport.shptron.com/p/t1015-diablosport-trinity-analog-pigtail-cable

Shop around though, the local speed shop only charged my $16
it's a pretty basic RCA jack you can make yourself



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn2lqBqdia4
 
#5 ·
perfect! i was searching for that thread earlier (read it a while back) but couldnt find it. Ill hopefully be doing this with a buddy at the dealership he works at, might make things easier than in the driveway.

As soon as a tuner is available for the 13s ill be all over it!

I dont plan on touching the cats anytime soon so am i better off installing it before the cats??
 
#7 · (Edited)
The only reason for pre-cat is a more accurate reading for tuning purposes
...but it won't be a deal breaker to do after the cats if it's just for monitoring.

To get a good angle for installing a bung pre-cat you pretty much need to remove them from the truck.

I just did my wideband install last month and didn't feel like the extra work was worth the trouble.



I cant recall, do you have a Magnaflow Y pipe yet?









If you don't, you could hold off on your install until you get one,
then take the whole mid pipe section in to shop to weld in a new Y and your bung at the same time

That's how UNBROKEN did his

 
#8 ·
yeah, the Y-Pipe is one of the first things i did with the truck, along with a cut out 6" after it (just for fun).

I wonder since ill have the wheels, liner and manifolds out if I could access pre cat then.
 
#11 · (Edited)
yeah i took a look at that picture and from what i looked at tonight on my truck, its a tight squeeze.

...I just thought about this as im typing.... i wonder what the passenger side looks like for space... hmmmm
 
#12 ·
looks like theres plenty of room on the passenger side. Im probably just going to install it there. Any reasons as to why i shouldnt??

 
#17 · (Edited)
Not as much room as you "think"

You have to make sure the sensor is above the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock position.
...dead center bottom = no good

9 o'clock = Good


Also keep in mind there is an o2 sensor on the backside of that pipe you may drill right into.
Remove that first if you feel this is still a good option and check the depth of the pickup so they wont hit each other




Got the mopar gaskets today. They seem to have a heat shield on them, im wondering if thats going to cause a issue fitting the headers.
The Heat Shields are there for a reason,
Use Them to keep coolant hoses off the pipes.
Look closer at my pictures and you'll see (passenger side)

The key is to install the gaskets first with one or two top bolts
The top flanges on the headers are slotted for a reason ;)

Gasket/Heat Shield on before header


Header in place, heat shield holding hose off pipe (bad angle photo makes it look like its touching...it's not)
 
#13 ·
Got the mopar gaskets today. They seem to have a heat shield on them, im wondering if thats going to cause a issue fitting the headers.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Looking forward to hearing your feedback on these headers, Im currently on the fence about ordering a set from Auto Anything myself.
 
#16 ·
yeah thats the plan, im prob just gonna go ahead and do it on the passenger side. Shouldnt be too much harder to get all the wiring in.

Came home to a fantastic package today.



The size of them really threw me off, im not sure if i was expecting something smaller or bigger, just not what was in the box lol.

Sunday morning is when ill be tackling this project, hopefully the wideband will be in by then to get it all done at once.
 
#18 ·
heat shield and upper bolts noted.

Ill take a closer look at that o2 sensor when i have it all apart.

Install is happening friday afternoon now instead of sunday morning, doesnt look like im gonna be receiving the wideband by then so it'll have to wait. No rush anyways, gotta get more guages to fill the holes in that pod lol.

Thinking of a fuel pressure guage and.....?? still dont know yet - my intense need to beat my buddys 6.6L turbo duramax (tuned, full deletes and straight pipe) on the 5th of october has me looking at some nitrous kits, so maybe a nitrous pressure guage??
 
#19 ·
Job is done! Took 5 1/2 hours - that included going at it by myself for the first 2 and driving to the parts store to buy high temp silicone..... apparently its needed lol (lost a good 45 mins there)



 
#20 ·
:SHOCKED: Shiny! Looks good! But now that Stainless Works has released some nice Long tubes Im torn!
 
#22 ·
thanks! when i first started and had the driver side manifold out in less than an hour i was pumped - thought to myself "if this is the hard side, the rest of this job will be a joke!"...

wasnt the case though lol those bolts are a lot harder to get it and lined up with those header tubes in the way.

Plus when we thought we had the job all done, i started the truck and it was awful, the header wasnt sealed to the cat pipe. So i had to undo those and back up the exhaust again to get that silicone sealant in. Not sure if that was in the instructions since i didnt even open them lol.
 
#23 ·
What's the butt dyno tell you?
 
#24 ·
Butt dyno likes it very much, but it likes all the mods. Butt likes to keep wallet happy when it gets emptied, even if it has to lie lol hitting up the track next friday, well see then if it changed anything!
 
#34 ·
I used the bolts that came with the kit, the header plate is a lot thinner than the stock manifold so i dont think stock bolts would fit.

Good Job Brother!

I thought I mentioned the high temp sealant in my install post,
guess I missed that, but it certainly was in the JBA instructions.

From what I've researched lately, ARH long tubes are actually easier to install than shorties.

There's way more space to reach the header bolts because the tubes aren't as compact.

We'll find out next weekend we do my Bud's ARH LT install
(and our new transmissions)
you probably did lol, its in the instructions too :doh:

ended up having to re-seal it today since i didnt do it right the first time and it was leaking pretty bad on the drivers side. Ill keep an eye on it.

Yes Brad has a freshly Ceramic Coated set of ARH LT's and a MBRP CatBack
he's been waiting to install when we do our trans swaps

...and yes he's already sold his JBA's

My shorties may go up for sale when I get my LT's
Still on the fence between ARH and going with OBX Jeep SRT8 headers like blue beast did. (for half the cost)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-...eep-Grand-Cherokee-SRT8-6-1L-V8-/200965928471
those are good looking headers - great way to go if you dont already have a y pipe and exhaust done.
 
#26 ·
Good Job Brother!

I thought I mentioned the high temp sealant in my install post,
guess I missed that, but it certainly was in the JBA instructions.

From what I've researched lately, ARH long tubes are actually easier to install than shorties.

There's way more space to reach the header bolts because the tubes aren't as compact.

We'll find out next weekend we do my Bud's ARH LT install
(and our new transmissions)
 
#27 ·
Did you see Stainless Works now has LT Headers :smiley_thumbs_up:

And is it Brad who is installing LT? If so has anyone bought his JBAs?
 
#31 ·
Don't you guys frequent the Drag Race section?

I thought everyone knew that's where the true performance mods are first tried, tested and proven.

blue beast installed them months ago

Thanks guys! I got some videos but to dumb to get them on here lol I usually Have Chris b post Them for me. My mods are cold air intake, 87 mm Moe's TB, clutch fan delete, obx long tubes, circle d 2800-3000 converter, custom y pipe with dynatech split flow Muffler, 180 t stat, 28-10-17 slicks, pro comp wheels on back, and a nx proton kit 175 shot. O yea b&g tuned.
 
#33 ·
I don't look at the drag section either. OBX looks like a good option... too bad the piping after the headers couldnt be utilized more. Id hate to drive across the city after installing the headers to get a Y pipe made
 
#35 ·
Any updates on these headers? Impressions after a week?
 
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