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  #1  
Old 09-15-2013, 08:56 PM
ramcaddy ramcaddy is offline
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Hey guys this is my first sound upgrade to my 10 bighorn. I have the res with uconnect which I intend to keep? I ordered all of the stuff today except for the wiring kit. Any thoughts on a good one. This is also my first self install. any tips, tricks, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Here is what I ordered. Let me know what you think. Thanks for your help in advance

Foxbox 2 10
2 alpine swr-10 d2 subs
Alpine mrx-m110 amp and rux knob
Power acoustic pcx-3f capacitor
Audio control lc2i


Highs to come later. Any advice for that would be appreciated as well
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2013, 09:20 PM
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GTyankee GTyankee is online now
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just a note of interest:

the RES radio with the PHONE Receiver hard key
uses the same external Uconnect module as the RBZ & RHB radios
in case you ever decide to upgrade

the RES without the hard key uses a different external uconnect module

The RER & RHR radios don't need a external uconnect module, they are self contained
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:54 PM
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Thebestestdrummer Thebestestdrummer is offline
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you don't need a capacitor.. haha
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:34 PM
autokraftgt autokraftgt is offline
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How are you planning to wire subs?
Return the capacitor... I run four amps and do not need one and would never buy one anyways... They're 99% useless
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by autokraftgt View Post
How are you planning to wire subs?
Return the capacitor... I run four amps and do not need one and would never buy one anyways... They're 99% useless
They're actually a pretty solid 99.9% useless. Just a fun fact for you..
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:56 PM
StoneyWV StoneyWV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebestestdrummer View Post
They're actually a pretty solid 99.9% useless. Just a fun fact for you..
Concur, actually worse for alternator than not having one.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:59 PM
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I am going to wire the two voice coils on each speaker in series, making each speaker a "4 ohm" then wire the two speakers in parallel bringing the total load to 2 ohm. I think I said that right. Haha it makes sense in my head.
I also think I may have ordered the line converter for no reason. I was looking at the details on the amp on alpines site and it looks like it may be built into amp already. I guess I'll find out when I hook everything up.
As for the capacitor I never knew that they could be bad for the alternator. Explain please. I know a few people that have them and swear by them. I got the capacitor pretty cheap so even if its a very slight improvement I'll use it. I May change my mind if someone can tell me how it can cause damage to my vehicle though.
Thanks
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:28 AM
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The TAU rate of a cap is where issues can come into play. A cap will charge and discharge rapidly causing transient spikes to the alternator. What does this do? It causes the alternator charging circuitry to spike high and low quickly, the alternator may not be able to keep up with these spikes. It will also cause most alternators to have excessive heat due to added resistance. These items we usually lead to decreased life of the alternator.
What's the best bet then? Well in the systems that I used to build, I would incorporate a high output alternator and also an extra battery close to the amp rack. The battery is actually an extremely large cap and provides more consistent filtered power without the spikes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by ramcaddy View Post
I am going to wire the two voice coils on each speaker in series, making each speaker a "4 ohm" then wire the two speakers in parallel bringing the total load to 2 ohm. I think I said that right. Haha it makes sense in my head.
I also think I may have ordered the line converter for no reason. I was looking at the details on the amp on alpines site and it looks like it may be built into amp already. I guess I'll find out when I hook everything up.
As for the capacitor I never knew that they could be bad for the alternator. Explain please. I know a few people that have them and swear by them. I got the capacitor pretty cheap so even if its a very slight improvement I'll use it. I May change my mind if someone can tell me how it can cause damage to my vehicle though.
Thanks
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsdbs View Post
The TAU rate of a cap is where issues can come into play. A cap will charge and discharge rapidly causing transient spikes to the alternator. What does this do? It causes the alternator charging circuitry to spike high and low quickly, the alternator may not be able to keep up with these spikes. It will also cause most alternators to have excessive heat due to added resistance. These items we usually lead to decreased life of the alternator.
What's the best bet then? Well in the systems that I used to build, I would incorporate a high output alternator and also an extra battery close to the amp rack. The battery is actually an extremely large cap and provides more consistent filtered power without the spikes.
Yes, a alternator upgrade to handle the extra power consumption of the amps that was not in the design of your truck.

A battery at the location of the amps to eliminate the spikes from the amps may work if your alternator is not upgraded. Don't use the capacitor.

Run your wiring kit to the extra battery (+) then connect your amps to that extra battery. Make sure you use a sealed battery and a fuse after each battery.

Hope your alternator can keep-up with the power draw.

Greg
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