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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #21  
Old 04-07-2014, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
Rebuild was a Piece of Cake!


Drained Trans, Removed all the sensors, then the pan
and left the rear section on, since we don't need access the low/reverse sprag



Valve Body out




Pump Out


1st drum assembly out that houses the OD and UD frictions/steels







Cracked the drum open to pull out the frictions and steels



Burned up Over Drive frictions/steels came out first.
These are the ones responsible for throwing incorrect gear ratio codes for 4th and 5th.


Going in for the Under Drive Frictions


Under Drive frictions and steels were flawless, and will be re-installed
No huge surprise that these were okay because my truck never slip while launching it, even with a 3400 stall speed.


Next drum to come out holds the 2c frictions and steels,


But first we swapped the replacement OD frictions/steels Mike sent,
Re-installed my good UD frictions/steels and closed up the first drum.
(to minimize the amount of frictions,steels,bearings and snap rings sitting around loose.)

I sent a quick text to Mike to ask if it was still necessary to go onto the next set,
because the U/D frictions looked so clean, He replied right away, Yes 2C can often be the worst
...he was right.

Pulled the 2C frictions/steels, steels were burned up pretty bad, chunks missing out the frictions


Swapped the ones Mike sent me and re-installed the housing and snap rings

Everything went back in just about as easy as it came out,
Pretty much impossible to do incorrectly because the snap rings wont line up
with the grooves if you got something in the wrong order/position.

Total bench time, not counting a pizza break was probably an hour and a half.
...and most of that was mopping up fluid and cleaning the old RTV off the pan.

Within the next week or two we'll drop the L&M trans out of my truck
and replace the OD frictions in the first drum assembly.

Anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this in no time,
Just don't go a dealership parts counter for rebuild parts, they will rape you!

much better source here: http://www.transmissionsone.com/45rf...s_from_pat.htm



Filters and Fluid ready to go for the next one
just waiting on my header collector flange/reducers so I can pull my shorty headers/cats along with the trans
and make room for the new JBA Catless Long Tube headers
Wanna work on my trans too?! I live in NJ

But for real that looks like you did a hell of a job. I wish I had the tools/balls to do my own trans work...
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:39 AM
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LOL i would come to jersey to help but I got my transmission rebuilt and if it dies I have Mike transmission from L&M to put in later.


GREAT RIGHT UP!
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Gecko View Post

But for real that looks like you did a hell of a job. I wish I had the tools/balls to do my own trans work...
Only tools needed for the job were a couple metric sockets and two flat screwdrivers to pull the snap rings.

Even if you had to spend a $1000 on tools,
it would be cheaper than paying someone else to do the work.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
Only tools needed for the job were a couple metric sockets and two flat screwdrivers to pull the snap rings.

Even if you had to spend a $1000 on tools,
it would be cheaper than paying someone else to do the work.
This is a fantastic thread, very informative

I do have some questions though, the trans you pictured rebuilding here is a stock 545rfe correct? you are using red eagle clutches in the stock drums and ram them for a while, how did they fair comparatively to the stock clutches?

Would there be much benefit to building a up a stock 545 with those clutches assuming a aftermarket VB and a line booster? I guess im trying to ask would reliability go up no a N/a engine?

Again this is great information thank you for sharing this
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  #25  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kamanhart View Post
This is a fantastic thread, very informative

I do have some questions though, the trans you pictured rebuilding here is a stock 545rfe correct? you are using red eagle clutches in the stock drums and ram them for a while, how did they fair comparatively to the stock clutches?

Would there be much benefit to building a up a stock 545 with those clutches assuming a aftermarket VB and a line booster? I guess im trying to ask would reliability go up no a N/a engine?

Again this is great information thank you for sharing this
Yes, this was my stock original transmission, about 22k miles on it.
The replacement OD/UD and 2C clutches were stock, almost new condition,
that Mike had pulled from one of his cores he had in for a re-build.

The Red Eagle frictions he sent me (12)
are replacement OD frictions for his Custom built trans (that is still in my truck)
Those are the ones we will be replacing next weekend.

In MGH's Built Trans the stock drums/backing plates are machined out to allow for the extra clutches
in several of the drum housings. (stock OD is only 4 frictions with 3 steels).

I think MGH's build has about 20 more frictions in total than a stock 545RFE
But just adding more frictions is useless without the increased pump pressure to hold them and the tuning to control it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgh View Post
I built my twin turbo setup 2 years ago and have gone through 4 or 5 trans builds before I came up with the setup that I have now. Every time that I rebuilt my trans it was always the OD clutches that were destroyed. There is some room to have the backing plates machined so that you can get more clutches in OD and UD. I also modify the valve body and the pump to increase the line pressure. All of this is useless if you do not modify the trans tuning to run higher shift pressures and hold pressures.
That's what I found out the hard way, and why some builders like Sharadon and ATS still fail under boost,
...Lack of Tuning!

His build modifies the pump and the valve body for about 40-50psi over stock,
but if you don't have his custom tune to control it the frictions still burn up.

I ran for two weeks without his tuning, my Bad
...But he still sent me replacements on his dime and said I could DIY
instead of shipping the trans back and forth 1000's of miles ($$$$).
He was confident he could walk me through the process over the phone if needed.

btw...Best Customer Service I've ever had from a Company !!!
and always available to answer questions related to my build
...even if it wasn't transmission related (like adding gauges/sensors and Water/Meth install)

The reason I didn't get my tuning in time was scheduling conflicts with Ripp and HHP.
Mike needed my Ripp tune unlocked before HHP could add Mikes trans programming to their supercharger tune.

I'm not sure if just upgrading to Red Eagle clutches is enough to bullet proof a 545RFE, and from my experience with a line pressure booster (Sonnax) it only worked for a month or so until the PCM compensates and relearns back to stock pressure.

It would be better than stock, for sure.
How much better and for how long we can't be certain until someone tries.
Knowing how easy it is now to replace clutches I would probably go for it if I wasn't running boost and a custom trans.
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Last edited by BlackRamHemi; 04-07-2014 at 11:58 AM.
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  #26  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
Yes, this was my stock original transmission, about 22k miles on it.
The replacement OD/UD and 2C clutches were stock, almost new condition,
that Mike had pulled from one of his cores he had in for a re-build.
1. Thank you for clarifying that, i must have got it mixed up in my head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
I ran for two weeks without his tuning, my Bad
...But he still sent me replacements on his dime and said I could DIY
instead of shipping the trans back and forth 1000's of miles ($$$$).
2. That is incredible service and ji cant blame you there!!

I'm not sure if just upgrading to Red Eagle clutches is enough to bullet proof a 545RFE, and from my experience with a line pressure booster (Sonnax) it only worked for a month or so until the PCM compensates and relearns back to stock pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
It would be better than stock, for sure.
How much better and for how long we can't be certain until someone tries.
Knowing how easy it is now to replace clutches I would probably go for it if I wasn't running boost and a custom trans.
This was exactly the answer i was looking for, thank you very much man. Next question would be do you know if mike does custom tranny tuning for any 545 trans or just his own? Also good luck with the next rebuild and hopefully she can hold that crazy power youre putting down.
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  #27  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:23 AM
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Mike's tuning is build specific and setting up the TCM tables
took countless hours of Dyno time with HHP to perfect.

Sorry, but I'm guessing that none of that carries over to a stock trans.
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  #28  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
Mike's tuning is build specific and setting up the TCM tables
took countless hours of Dyno time with HHP to perfect.

Sorry, but I'm guessing that none of that carries over to a stock trans.
Hey man no troubles at all, i just had to ask and again thank you for all the info
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  #29  
Old 04-07-2014, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRamHemi View Post
Only tools needed for the job were a couple metric sockets and two flat screwdrivers to pull the snap rings.

Even if you had to spend a $1000 on tools,
it would be cheaper than paying someone else to do the work.
I've got those tools haha

So if I'm doing a VB and a TC this spring it's possible to do it myself? And it's fairly straight forward?
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  #30  
Old 04-07-2014, 01:25 PM
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VB swap is as easy as dropping the pan and removing a few bolts
doesn't even require transmission removal

For torque converter swap the hardest part is taking the transmission out,
which I guess isn't really that hard, just tedious and time consuming.

Only thing that gave us a little trouble was reaching to the top of the trans
to disconnect the stubborn o2 sensor connectors before we could drop the exhaust
================================================== ========
I'm sure there are some shortcuts but this is a copy and past from the Dodge Service Manual.

Here are the procedures for trans removal:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle
3. Remove any necessary skid plates
4. Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
5. Remove the rear propeller shaft
6. Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary.
7. Remove the engine (1) to transmission (3) structural dust cover (2).
8. Remove the exhaust support bracket from the rear of the transmission.
9. Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary exhaust components.
10. Remove the starter motor.
11. Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
12. Disengage the output speed sensor connector from the output speed sensor
13. Disengage the input speed sensor connector from the input speed sensor
14. Disengage the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly connector from the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly
15. Disengage the line pressure sensor connector from the line pressure sensor
16. Disconnect gearshift cable (1) from transmission manual valve lever
17. Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
18. Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
19. Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
20. Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember.
21. Remove transfer case, if necessary.
22. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.

NOTE: When disconnecting the transmission oil cooler lines, it is necessary to replace the line clip that is located on the oil pan stud. The retention force of the clip is severely degraded upon removal.

23. Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
24. Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
25. Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
26. Lower transmission (2) and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
27. To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission

Here are the steps for tc removal:

1. Remove transmission and torque converter from vehicle.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the converter housing end of the transmission.

CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity of the transmission will shift when the torque converter is removed creating an unstable condition. The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution when separating the torque converter from the transmission.

3. Pull the torque converter forward until the center hub clears the oil pump seal.
4. Separate the torque converter from the transmission.

===============================================

For 4x4 its a little more work if you dont have a fully equipped shop with a lift and a trans jack.
We had to remove the transfer case to make the transmission easier to handle. (just used floor jacks)
Top up the new TC as much as you can with ATF+4, just under half full when stood upright.

When installing the new TC it's Very important to make sure it is fully seated, turn push and rotate again until you get the second "click"

Ask Kurtis about what happens if you skip that one lol.

Great youtube vid explanation on Torque Converters:

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Last edited by BlackRamHemi; 04-07-2014 at 01:44 PM.
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