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  #1  
Old 09-08-2015, 03:47 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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Default Truck overheating

I have an 09 ram 1500 5.7 Hemi. Complete factory. No Mods. Engine was starting to run a little warmer than esp at in town speeds. Checked clutch fan. It was wobbling. So I relaced clutch fan from Napa. While I was there I replaced thermostat (Autozone) with 203 deg thermostat. Changed heater hoses, top and bottom hoses, replaced metal tube coming from thermostat housing(rusted), flushed entire system, block, radiator, heater core. New antifreeze(mixture checked out at +265 deg and -35 deg F. Checked new clutch fan when got home by shutting off engine and coolant was at 206 Deg. The new fan spun pretty freely. I would have thought it would be locked and trying to cool with driving in town at that temp. It went up to 212 deg today at one time. When I finally am able to drive at speed it does cool it down some. This truck always ran at 194-195 deg whether it was cold or hot. So I went down and purchased a MOPAR thermostat and coolant temp sensor from my local Dealership. Haven't installed yet. The clutch fan is engaged and roars at cold startup as required. Any ideas. I Love it. I do preventive maintenance and now it's broke. LOL! Any Help!
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:15 PM
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Turbovsix Turbovsix is offline
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If it's running hotter than what your normal range is, maybe there's some air in the system still from when you flushed it. When you flushed the system did you burp the air out of it sufficiently?

FWIW, mine runs around town at about 203 on average it seems - I'll see 210/212 idling in traffic occasionally in the summer.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:38 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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Thanks for the reply Turbo. I installed the coolant temp sensor and the factory thermostat. I burped it again even by removing the plug at the thermostat housing like it says to do. Squeezed the top and bottom hose and most air came out. I took it for a ride and now it stays at 201 deg. From what ur sayin that's normal. Top hose is hot-hot and the bottom is hot but nnot as hot. I took the belt off and spun the waterpump and it moved water out of the thermostat housing and it spun real free. I just can't understand why it ran at 194-195 for 6 yrs and just rolled 100,000 miles even with this being my 2nd thermostat and flush and fill. The only time it would go to 201 is if I stopped and shut it off and say got fuel and when I started it back up it was 199-201 but would cool right down to 194-195 in a minute. Baffles me. I don't think it's internal because it takes a long tome to heat up to open the thermostat. I'm talking 15 min or so sitting idling. If both hoses are hot then radiator and pump is OK right.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:18 PM
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Turbovsix Turbovsix is offline
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Yeah that's kinda interesting - I'll say my normal driving around range is 201-203, This has been pretty constant since I bought the truck. Sitting in NJ traffic today, I saw 208, but only for a few - then right back down to 201-203. I don't typically see the temps you mentioned on a regular basis which is why I was kinda puzzled in the first place....

I'm at 154K miles so I'm due for a flush (did one at 80K) and this time around I'll probably do the upper and lower hoses and heater hoses and a thermostat - plan on keeping this truck for a loonnnnnnng time haha.
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:28 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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OK UPDATE- Replaced temp sensor for coolant. No change in temps. Put a coolant pressure tester on system without truck running, NO leaks. Tester fell of maybe a half pound in 5 minutes at 16 psi. Put tester on truck and started and let truck come to operating temp which took forever. Needle on tester didn't build pressure very fast all. Right as thermostat was opening it went from 10lbs pressure to 16 psi in 5-10 seconds. I released tester so I didn't blow system. Some antifreeze came out with a lot of air. Maybe it burped itself for me after I burped it. Let in run and topped off and let the thermostat open at least 10 times without cap on. Put tester on and it didn't build any pressure so I pumped it up to see if needle would fluctuate or bounce to show compression leak(Bad head gasket or head or block) but it didn't so I'm confident no internal damage. No bubbles in oil or trans fluid. No milky look to either also. Idles now after an hour right at 197 deg. Top hose and bottom hose hot. Bottom not as hot. No leaks in heater core and not plugged. Have plenty of heat in cab so heater core OK and water seems OK. New factory thermostat (203 deg) is working fine. I guess it is what it is. I just can't figure out why it ran at 194-195 deg for so long and now it runs from 197 up to 206 deg at times. Put a new cap on today also.Old cap seemed to fall off pressure considerably.Baffled.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:07 PM
RayK RayK is offline
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Do the sniff exhaust test for coolant. Check the radiator for internal corrosion restricting flow. Also, spray the radiator fins to get all the dirt out. Check the upper and lower radiator hoses cold to see if they pass the squeeze test. You should be able to pinch them.

Make sure the coolant is the right mix of water and anti-freeze.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:03 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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No smell from the exhaust. Hoses are pliable. All fins including rad, ac condenser, and trans cooler are clean as a pin. Rad looked good from what I can see. Hard to see in the top where the cap is. It turns 90 deg. This just happened all of a sudden. No water in the oil or trans fluid. I'm just wondering if the water pump fins are wore down. I hear they are plastic. It seems to be flowing but hard to tell the amount of volume. Guess I could get it hot and take off the upper hose and find out. Carefully. LOL!
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:30 PM
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your water pump fins are likely OK

when a water pump is about to need replacing, it weeps water from the hole just below the shaft that the fan blades are bolted to

on many vehicles, you need to disconnect the battery, before reaching your hand down to check for that water drip

radiator hoses usually have a spring where the hose makes a curve
if you squeeze where that curve is & you hear or feel a crunching, your hose is shot & there is rust in your radiator

If you want to insure that your radiator is indeed clear of rust, drive it to a real radiator shop to have it inspected.
if they say it is partially blocked, pull out your radiator & take it back to that Radiator shop, not an auto parts store, & have them Rod Out the radiator.
That will make your radiator like new

Labor cost for removing & replacing the radiator at a shop cost more then the actual cleaning, that is why you should do your own removal & replacement
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2015, 06:19 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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I can feel the spring in the bottom one but I don't remember feeling any in the top one. I've replaced a few water pumps on others makes and models and the weep hole is usually where I can see the leaks and is a sign it's bad. I spun the water pump without the belt on when I was installing the stat and it moved some water out of the housing and it spun real free. I thought it would have more drag on it. That's how we used to clean rads. We would take them out and send them to a rad shop and they would rod them and bake them and they were new when we got them back. Thanks for the reminder. I think I'm just gonna yank the rad and be done with it.
Thanks

Donnie
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:43 PM
DKSDonnie DKSDonnie is offline
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Ok I just took my daughter to a friends house which was a 30 min drive not exceeding 50 mph with some stop and go. 80 Deg ambient and high humidity which makes my truck run warmer moreover than just ambient temp. Thicker air I guess. Truck stayed at 199 3/4 of the trip and finally went up to 201 until I got home. Digital reading. The gauge fluctuated from 2 needle widths to a half a needle width below half the whole way. You could watch the thermostat open and close. this is where the needle has always been since day one since I owned it. The digital doesn't want to come down near as quick as it goes up when the thermostat opens and it cools to the 2 needle widths below half. I did drain some antifreeze and put straight water in because the antifreeze checker pegged which told me too much antifreeze. I also burped the hell out of it again. Maybe the new cap, burping and thinning the antifreeze helped. I'm going to start it in am without the cap and burp some more and top it off. It does seem hard to get all the air out. Top hose was hot hot and bottom was hot but you could hold ur hand on it for a lot longer than the top. I checked rad and it's clean as a whistle. Temps when I got home - Water-201, Oil Temp-199, Trans Temp-154. Would there be problem with digital gauge. I read where there are 2 coolant sensors-Coolant temp sensor for digital gauge and temp sending unit for gauge. Dealer told me know, as far as he knew there was just one(sits on top of thermostat/water pump housing with 2 wires. Other post said sending unit had 1 wire. I guess we''l see. Thanks for the input. Sry to rattle but detail helps with diagnosing problems esp with vehicles. Plus I'm anal as hell when it comes to projects. My father was a Chrys mech, service writer, service director for prob 40 years and I was a mech and parts manager in the 80's and early 90's. I get it honestly. Cars and trucks have changed a lot since then.
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