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  #11  
Old 11-03-2013, 06:42 PM
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It can't hurt to pull the rear differential cover
just put a catch pan under it to catch the oil
make sure the pan is clean, because you will want to feel around in the fluid to feel for metal shavings, or you could use a magnet to do it

the good part is that it is a AAM rear differential & parts are readily available
there is a website called RING & PINION, that you may want to check out

the pinion stuff that you likely read about, is mostly for the years 2009 & 2010 AAM rear differentials

the hardest part of redoing a differential is getting the shimming correct & then the pre load

here is a video of trouble shooting differentials, there are several on Youtube



this video is a bit more informative

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  #12  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenbored View Post
since its an off-road version (same as my 2000) you have the Trash lok...I mean Trac Lok so be ready to find out your trac lok retainers and springs have broken and taken your bearing out, hopefully your ring and pinion is still good but there is a chance that they went bad too. I just got done rebuilding my 9.25 trac lok rear axle. If your trac lok blew a dealer will tell you that you need a whole new assembly which is around $800 or so plus $400-$500 for a ring and pinion plus another $200 for bearings, and around $600-$800 for labor so yea...not cheap.

I got lucky with my rear axle, my ring and pinion were good so I replaced my trac lok clutchs, all the bearings, and some random parts for $200 no labor. An aftermarket ring and pinion shop will probably rebuild the trac lok if yours exploded. Either way your looking to spend over $1000

A way to check if your limited slip is broken in the second gen truck is to put the trans in neutral, lift up the rear axle, turn one tire, if the other tire spins the same way your trac lok is most likely good. If your tire turns the opposite way then the trac lok is broken.

I'm about 99% sure that all off road second gen ram's came with a limited slip...I could be wrong though.
They all did come with a limited slip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fosrer6565 View Post
Well after reading all this, its starting to seem alot more of a process then i thought it was going to be.

I suppose i should just open her up and see what the problem is and go from there. What do you say?

Would this rear end bolt right into my truck?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261318975029...84.m1423.l2649
Those axles would bolt up, but that ad doesn't mention the condition of those axles or the gear ratio. You would most likely be going to a taller gear ratio which would hurt off the line acceleration and make it harder on the transmission to turn those 33" tires.

You would also have to change the front axle as well in order to keep the same gear ratio front and rear.

That's a lot of coin to spend when you aren't sure what gear ratio those are, or if they even need a rebuild.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
It can't hurt to pull the rear differential cover
just put a catch pan under it to catch the oil
make sure the pan is clean, because you will want to feel around in the fluid to feel for metal shavings, or you could use a magnet to do it

the good part is that it is a AAM rear differential & parts are readily available
there is a website called RING & PINION, that you may want to check out

the pinion stuff that you likely read about, is mostly for the years 2009 & 2010 AAM rear differentials

the hardest part of redoing a differential is getting the shimming correct & then the pre load

here is a video of trouble shooting differentials, there are several on Youtube

It's mainly Chrysler's decision to use a crush sleeve to set the pinion. Stupid design. That's why it's common to need a rebuild on these rear ends.


My advice would be to pull the cover and check the condition of the ring gear and pinion, and also the housing. If those are good, you can probably just get a shop to rebuild the rear end for cheaper than $1000 for sure.
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Last edited by the persuader; 11-03-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2013, 11:24 PM
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Well right now i have my mechanic friend on board to help me. First thing we are doing is going to buy a chiltons/Haynes manual on the truck , then we are going to open up the diff to see whats going on and go from there.
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  #14  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:24 PM
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The howling noise wasn't there when you test drove it prior to purchase?

I would not go with those axles unless I am actually putting my hands on them to verify r/p condition and ratio, plus if they are similarly shot! The front is a 95% bolt in. Control arm bolts are smaller, which are not really an issue until you try to take yours out. Typically you have to cut them off b/c of being seized. 00-01 control arm bolts are larger. Brakes should plug right in even though yours are double piston and those older ones are single.


I concur that there is a higher probability that the issue is the LSD. These Chrysler 9.25s didn't really have any pinion issue, at least not that I have seen as common. Other new axles do. As far as I know, the Chrysler 9.25 is not by AAM. 03+ get AAM axles.

Here are pictures of my LSD showing worn clutch plates and the retainer clips that broke. Rebuilt by the dealership for < $700 Spring 2009.









The howling could also be a bearing rolling over a pit(s) in a race. Also high probability.




Go on your current path with your friend to pull the cover and inspect.

here is link to 2001 Factory Service Manual to download:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwDk...rive_web&pli=1


Do a search for "How to rebuild a Track-Lock" or similar and you'll find the info....

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/10...dana-trac-lok/



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fosrer6565 View Post
Hey everyone just purchased a previously loved 2001 ram 1500 4x4 off road edition , got a great deal on it (i think haha) and it does have a few issues.

The main one I am worried about is the howling noises the rear end is making. So with research and the mechanic I had take a look at it , im assuming it is the pinion gear issue i have been reading up so much on. Seems to be pretty common with these trucks. I called the dealer to see how much it would cost to just look at the truck they said $140, then i just mentioned the word pinion gear they said ohh your looking at around $1800-1900 right off the bat!!!!!!! That was kind of discouraging and not the answer i was looking for so needless to say i am trying to find another route.

Anyways enough back story , what do i do? Find a used complete axle assembly, do i just need a new rear diff, take it to a mechanic shop?

Or buy everything i need myself and have my mechanic friend and I fix it.

Right now i dont even want to drive it until its fixed. All help is appreciated :/

Update: Here is another option as they are close to where i live would this be possible and would they fit right in just unbolt the old ones and put these right in? http://www.ebay.com/itm/261318975029...84.m1423.l2649

Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenbored View Post
since its an off-road version (same as my 2000) you have the Trash lok...I mean Trac Lok so be ready to find out your trac lok retainers and springs have broken and taken your bearing out, hopefully your ring and pinion is still good but there is a chance that they went bad too. I just got done rebuilding my 9.25 trac lok rear axle. If your trac lok blew a dealer will tell you that you need a whole new assembly which is around $800 or so plus $400-$500 for a ring and pinion plus another $200 for bearings, and around $600-$800 for labor so yea...not cheap.

I got lucky with my rear axle, my ring and pinion were good so I replaced my trac lok clutchs, all the bearings, and some random parts for $200 no labor. An aftermarket ring and pinion shop will probably rebuild the trac lok if yours exploded. Either way your looking to spend over $1000

A way to check if your limited slip is broken in the second gen truck is to put the trans in neutral, lift up the rear axle, turn one tire, if the other tire spins the same way your trac lok is most likely good. If your tire turns the opposite way then the trac lok is broken.

I'm about 99% sure that all off road second gen ram's came with a limited slip...I could be wrong though.
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2013, 06:54 PM
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Update:
Okay so today pulled the diff cover off my mechanic friend and myself started looking around.

We tested the trac-lock by jacking the truck up and spinning the wheels, and according to that test the trac-lock works.

Then i spun the tires as fast as i could so that he could try to find out where the light howling was coming from , definitely the diff housing.

So since i dont know exactly what is wrong with it and these trucks have a history of trac-locks going out i think im going to replace everything except the planetary gear and pinion gear.

Any input? Think i should do something else?

Update: Watching that 2nd trouble shooting video and seeing the play the driveshave had because the pinion bearing was worn is exactly what my truck is doing, there is a lot of north to south play in it. And if i compared it to the play in my front diff i could definitely see something isnt right as my front one has zero play.

Well too easy ordered the parts truck is on jack stands just a waiting game now.

Last edited by Fosrer6565; 11-06-2013 at 08:05 PM.
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2013, 08:59 PM
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well if your trak-loc is good, (you didn't find any pieces of the retainers or spring plates in the diff housing) and your ring and pinion are good, I would just get a rebuild kit. Comes with all the bearings and races, a new crush sleeve, and a new pinion seal. Do not forget to add limited slip additive. The mopar additive is hands down the best stuff. About 13 bucks and all chrysler dealers carry it.

I went to autozone and bought a Timkin 9.25 rear axle rebuild kit for $100. That is if you decide to build it yourself.

If you really want to rebuild your trac lok here is a link to the clutches you need:
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-6...plate-kit.aspx

The dealer charges $250 for that exact same kit.
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  #17  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:08 AM
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I ordered a completely brand new trac-lock just because and rebuild kit, i figured since they are a known issue with these trucks id rather spend a little extra and put it in while i have the whole diff tore apart. i found one brand new for $284 not to bad and the rebuild kit was around $100 should be in the mail any day now!!!!! Can't wait to get the truck back on the road!

Is there any specialty tools needed for the rebuild kit?
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2013, 10:59 AM
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Early 2nd Gens had a tag on the Rad support with the gear ratio (3.5=3:55. etc...) 97 and up to 01 switched it around and is usually in the glove box.

As stated above^ most used parts yards are connected to the internet, if they use the Pinnacle or Hollander system, and have the part inventoried. It will show up on a parts search on Car-Part.com. I'm guessing you have access to the internet and a computer...call it ESP, or a 6th sense.

It'll show anything listed locally and may even make you a little more familiar with lesser known yards in the area. (that was just for future reference)
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock III View Post
Early 2nd Gens had a tag on the Rad support with the gear ratio (3.5=3:55. etc...) 97 and up to 01 switched it around and is usually in the glove box.

As stated above^ most used parts yards are connected to the internet, if they use the Pinnacle or Hollander system, and have the part inventoried. It will show up on a parts search on Car-Part.com. I'm guessing you have access to the internet and a computer...call it ESP, or a 6th sense.

It'll show anything listed locally and may even make you a little more familiar with lesser known yards in the area. (that was just for future reference)
My 01 didn't list the gear ratio on the core support or on the glovebox sticker. But since the OP has the Offroad Edition, he has 4.10's unless the gears were swapped.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:16 PM
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glove box sticker says 4.10
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