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  #31  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:46 AM
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starquestbd22 starquestbd22 is offline
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Man, that sucks. I'm no mechanic but I've done a lot of reading about the valvespring issue. I just found and read through the entire thread today and I have been thinking the entire time that it sounded like a broken spring. If the valve has fallen into the cylinder, you will likely have piston damage, cylinder wall scarring, and severe damage to the cylinder head. If you haven't already, do some more searching on the effects of the valvespring breaking (if the valve drops into the cylinder....this doesn't always happen) and look at some pics of the damage it typically causes. I know there are pics out there because I have seen them in my own research.

I agree that a proper rebuild is needed and you will likely be faced with replacing the head on that side.
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  #32  
Old 11-11-2013, 09:54 PM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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Ok, got the piston out with the engine still in the truck. Wasn't sure this could be done as I was concerned about clearance once the oil pan was off but no problem. Should be plenty of room to get a torque wrench in there and reinstall rod & bearings. Hey BTW has anyone heard about the new racing pistons for the 5.7 Hemis? That's right, these aren't OEM! Here's a sneak peek.

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...kers/image.jpg
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  #33  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:08 PM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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I would just like to say thanks for bearing with me to this point and thanks for the help thus far. My daughters' truck has taught me a few things that previously I was ignorant to and not just the wrenching it required. I've learned through all my attempts at google(ing) my questions a couple things I'd like to share. One is that google will lead you to potential answers that are (unscientifically) 80% prior forum discussions/ 20% paid for advice i.e.. Ehow, Ask.com etc.. The paid for info is good but not always helpful. The forum info was better but I discovered that often a 2-3 even 4 yr old thread was left dangling. Whomever needed help got great info from other members in the forum but failed to bring the thread up to date with what eventually fixed their problem! That left me still unable to compare their problems with mine to work toward a fix. It would be nice if all members whom post a need for help would finish with what ultimately was the fix.
If you're with me on this to the end I promise that I will submit my end results and hopefully some other poor soul will be helped as a result down the line. I know, some of you probably are wishing I would take my problem to another sight! Too bad, I'm still able to post. Thanks
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  #34  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:43 PM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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Here's one that I had great difficulty finding helpful info on:
How to remove the oil pan on a 2003 Dodge 5.7L Hemi 4x4 auto trans by backyard mechanic. (?)
Dump all oil (preferably after running the engine a while to heat it). Throw some jackstands under the front end for support. Loosen the transmission mount to the point that the bolts are still in but by a turn or so, take the trans dust cover off located at the rear of the engine, start of the transmission. It will be covering some of your oil pan bolts. There are 3 -15mm. bolts that attach a engine support to the pumpkin on your front end, remove them as you will be lifting the engine ultimately to drop the pan, (drivers side). Remove your two lower engine mount bolts and loosen the two top bolts. Remove all of your oil pan bolts in the same pattern you will be putting them on in. This is the point whereby there appeared to be nothing holding the pan on but I could not get it to budge. Your first impulse is to wedge something between the pan and block and give her heck. DON'T DO THIS! I used the flat side of a good sized maul to whack the sides of the oil pan and eventually got it to break loose,(no dents either). Now your pan gasket is part of the windage tray so don't expect the gaskets of yesteryear when the pan drops. Note: the pan will not come off the truck at this point. You will need to raise the engine, however there are 2 more things you must do prior to raising the engine. Get a 13mm. 3/8 drive socket ready and 13mm. wrench. You will find at the front of your oil pan the oil suction tube is bolted to the block with a 13mm. bolt, remove this with your socket. Now half way on the pan the tube has a 13mm. nut on a post. Remove that nut and your oil pickup tube will drop into the pan. Congrats, you are now ready to raise your engine just enough to allow the oil pan to slip off. I used a jack with a piece of wood slid in under the support that I removed the 3 15mm. bolts from and it worked great. Dodge calls for special tool #? to raise the engine with but you can do it without, just be safe. Everyone knows install is same as above but backward. You'll probably want to install a new windage tray and seal as well as the rubber seal on the end of your pickup tube to block connection. Why? Cause who in their right mind would want to do all this again! Unless you're getting paid to do it. Remember my customer is my daughter.
Someone was kind enough to post links to download pdf. manuals and I downloaded for this truck. Guess what, not a great help in this instance. They made no mention of the two 13mm. keepers on the oil pickup tube. Didn't tell me I'd have to beat the heck out of the sides of the pan to get it to finally drop. Anyway, cheers! Think I'm gonna have a beer.

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...rs/image-1.jpg
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Last edited by dalboa; 11-12-2013 at 09:48 AM.
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  #35  
Old 11-12-2013, 07:57 AM
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Maybe I just missed it but I'm still curious about something. Have you been able to examine the underside of the cylinder head? I would think it would be difficult to do by looking through the lower portion of the block but maybe not.
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  #36  
Old 11-12-2013, 08:17 AM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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Starquest, yeah I should have included a pic sorry. It's not bad at
all. Biggest damage was to the valve guide. Took it to a good machine
shop and they think they'll repair the valve guide, new seat, I'm going with
the 6.1 springs on all. Truck was idling when this occurred fortunately. I was busy
chasing codes and throwing sensors on it hoping its problem wasn't that bad. Hindsight
they say is 20/20. I'm blind as a bat!
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  #37  
Old 11-12-2013, 07:16 PM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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Took both heads into machinist today, he noted that cylinders 1/3/5 were not firing when on the engine. I had determined this earlier by the new spark plugs in these cylinders remaining new looking as if they had not been firing. He stated that some of these engines had problems with firing only on one side or irregular due to the harmonic balancer. I'm still wandering why when I pulled out the plug it would fire and the fuel entering the cylinder would fire too from the one of two plugs as evidenced in the video earlier. I had checked ground on all coils and all were fine & noid light showed they were getting power.
What malfunctioned on the head was cylinder #3 exhaust valve guide. Upon failing the exhaust valve dropped into the cylinder then the broken shaft was pushed up through and into the valve cover breaking it as well. I've reamed the cylinder with a straight reamer 400 grit to look for any bulging in the cylinder. Not perfect but not bad by my standards. I'm no machinist though.
He's going to give me a estimate to install new springs, new seats, valve guides etc..
I don't like the idea that once this engine is back together I may still have problems with other things so I'm considering just buying another engine and installing it ( Damn sure not another 03 year). Guess the estimates on the heads will be my determining factor. Oh, was going to order a piston, rings, rod, rod bearings and any of the auto parts stores would supply if possible as a one piece order. The machinist made a very good point however that were I to order willy nilly any ole 5.7 hemi piston I likely will have a problem with balance resultant of the piston inevitably being the wrong weight. He said I should go to the dealer with the vin and order. So I did, piston,rod,rings,rod bearings were available and $150.00.
Auto Zone 5.7 crate hemi $2850 + core
Napa 3000. + core
Local auto yard: 2004 5.7 hemi 90k miles 1800.00
Leaning toward the 04 for 1800.00
This will be an around the town ride for my daughter and will likely remain a garage queen, as in not a true working, load hauling, pulling truck.
Any opinions?
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Last edited by dalboa; 11-12-2013 at 07:18 PM.
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  #38  
Old 11-12-2013, 07:37 PM
Tommycat Tommycat is offline
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Chances are the 04 should work for you. If she's not putting a lot of miles on it, the 04 won't be too old. The extra $1k would be better saved than spent. Just make sure before you put it in that you remove the plugs, and turn it through a full 360 to ensure no binding. A lot of times these salvage yard trucks are involved in accidents, so there can be times that the crank was damaged. Better to find out before you install it that the engine will rotate through the full 360 without binding... Plus it makes sure you replace the plugs. If you don't and one of the plugs is damaged, you'll be right back where you are now.
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  #39  
Old 11-12-2013, 07:50 PM
dalboa dalboa is offline
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Tommycat, thank-you. Very wise advice. Course too I'm relying upon their integrity that the engine only has 90k on it so very good advice from you. Thanks
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  #40  
Old 11-12-2013, 07:53 PM
Tommycat Tommycat is offline
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Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. I had to RE replace a motor because it wouldn't turn over.
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