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Heating & Cooling 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:33 AM
Bigvoldaddy22 Bigvoldaddy22 is offline
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Default Heater Problems

I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab. I bought it about 3 years ago and have loved it till this winter. First I need to say that upon buying it the door that's inside the AC (on passenger side near the fan) had broken off and was covering the fan causing the air flow to be low. Instead of replacing I just removed. Was told it had something to do with the recirculation from inside to outside air and was not needed. That was 2-1/2 years ago and has not been a problem that I could tell. About 3-4 months ago I noticed that with the heat on high and full fan the temp on the passenger side is much hotter then on the driver side. I thought blind door. So had it checked and they are working fine. Did some research and found that air bubbles could be in the water system. I did notice (not ever time) but on some mornings when I start it I can hear what sounds like gurgling on the passenger side. sometimes its only a little and sometimes it longer. Never the same sound all the time. So I opened the raid cap and ran the truck a while. hoping that any air would move through system. Nothing. I also need to add that the temp difference is not like hot and ice cold. It's more like Hot (passenger side) and cool (driver side) I think one day it was tested at 160 on passenger and 85 on the driver side. I have not had any over heat problems. the truck seems to run just below mid point all the time on the gauge. When playing with the AC switches when I push the temp level for the driver side all the way to Hot the air flow seems to go down some. and when I push it all the way to the cold side it seems to get real high again. Its almost like I am also changing the fan speed but just moving the temp dial. Its a small change but I do notice it. the air flow on the passenger side seems to stay the same all the time.

I have been told it could be many different things.
1.) air in water system and needs to be flushed
2.) there is a clog in the heater core and needs to be flushed
3.) a blockage in the heater BOX (not core) like foam or something blocking the hot air to driver side
4.) bad water pump

anyone had this problem? anyone safely flushed a water system or unclogged a heater core? I am NOT car guy and struggle with simple task but I am willing to try and save money where I can. Just need good step by step help.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:41 PM
Simple guy Simple guy is offline
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try back flushing the heater core it's easy to do and you can easily find a how to on youtube. you basically just disconnect the heater hoses (not from the heater core side) and either use air or best some liquid. i've seen people use specific cleaners (coolant flushes) or just water and simple green... flush backwards and forward. you can judge how many times by how dirty it looks and how much sediment you get out. that would be the cheapest first step.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:34 PM
Bigvoldaddy22 Bigvoldaddy22 is offline
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Default simple guy

First, thank you! second I am a little worried about doing his. mostly because the repair shop I took it to the owner and one of his mechanics told me not to do this. that it would bust or damage the heater core. I mentioned it to them as something I had seen on youtube and they said 90% of the time when doing this the heater core bust or is damaged. that if its clogged then it just needs to be replaced. but they could not tell me if it was clogged. they said that the only way to check that is to take it out and if you take it out you should just replace it. Have you done this or know of it working? I would like to give it a try but I am a little worried. would hate to make things worse.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:14 PM
Simple guy Simple guy is offline
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Let me just say this tidbit. The flat rate time to replace the heater core is something like 12hrs. That's a nice paycheck to a mechanic that can do it in 6hrs. it will only bust if it is severely corroded and is structurally unsound or too high of a pressure is used to flush it. If it bursts, at that point the back flush just became a diagnostic test for the heater core. if it holds and a clog is removed then... you just saved yourself some time til having to pay out that 12hrs.


Edit: I just want to add that the coolant system is normally pressurized with normal operation.

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Last edited by Simple guy; 01-14-2014 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:42 AM
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just back flush the heater core. my 07 power wagon did the exact same thing. it was the inside of my hoses deteriorating and clogging the heater core. i was right there as they were flushing the core and seen the stuff that was inside the heater core. it was the rubber breaking down into a fine powder that was clogging the heater core. after it was done i had perfect heat. the dealer informed me the heater cores in the rams are very tough and hard to blow or break. the pipes the go inside the core get larger and on the return side they as the pipe comes out of the core it gets smaller. by doing so it drops the pressure inside the core itself. kind of like an expansion chamber. the dealer i was at said since the gen 3 came out they have never had to change a heater core. if you get it back flushed (which will help) get them to catch the water as it comes out and check for fine sandlike particles. if you find that in the water you need to change your hoses (heater and radiator) its the hoses breaking down like mine did. if there is air in the system the shop will be able to make sure the system is fully bled to remove all the air.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:08 AM
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GTyankee GTyankee is offline
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air in the heater core could cause your problem
air can sometimes be BURBED out of the upper radiator hose

youtube has at least 3 videos made by HEATERTREATER
just type Heatertreater Dodge into your web browser

ERIC the Car Guy videos are also a good source for many issues
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