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  #21  
Old 01-16-2014, 10:07 AM
Hermes1 Hermes1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterGDRam View Post
I instaled catch cat. When you empty one after 2000 miles , you will know what the catch can is for.
Hell, although the instructions on mine recommended checking at a 1000 miles, I could not wait and checked at 700 miles and that was confirmation enough. I can only imagine at 2K. So yes it is probably the best mod one can do.
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  #22  
Old 01-16-2014, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhp View Post
Will engines run thousands of miles with little to no maintenance. Yes. .
I like to keep my engine clean. .
The Catch Can does what it says. .
If a person doesn't want to run one, fine. .
Break time..............
I was going call you out on what's wrong with the "tech" part of your post, but I realize, to each heir own theories.
So I figure I can agree with the above.
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2014, 06:54 PM
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I have a catch can and i check my oil and the can every fill up, i have always checked oil at fill ups. It's pretty easy to do both while the pump is running.
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2014, 07:29 PM
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Long winded but truthful explanation about what a catch can does

Before smog devices, every engine had a Draft Tube, build up of excess pressure that can & will blow out gaskets , that builds up in the Crankcase chamber was vented through the draft tube & dumped out onto the road & also into the air

Along came the smog laws, preventing environmental pollution
basically engineers started using the PVC valve, it took the excess pressure & redirected the oil fumes up to the combustion chamber in the hopes that the spark plugs would burn off the fumes, keeping the oil off the road & out of the air
The spark plugs only partially burn off the fumes & over time the partially burned oil fumes become carbon build up on the pistons surface & on top of the Compression Ring, (The principal function of the piston rings is to form a seal between the combustion chamber and the crankcase of the engine. The goal is to prevent combustion gases from passing into the crankcase and oil from passing into the combustion chamber. During the compression and power strokes, the compression ring seals the combustion gases and prevents blow-by. Although blow-by is not completely eliminated it is kept to an acceptable limit)
The gasoline also has a lubricant in it & does not need any extra oil from the crankcase to get the job done.

Any extra fumes & carbon that do pass through the exhaust valves would normally just pass out of the tail pipe, this was not acceptable to the environmentalists, so the Catalytic converter came into use

The catch can does not eliminate all of the oil fumes from passing into the combustion chamber, but it does cut down on the amount to a degree that the combustion chamber is kept a whole lot cleaner & using Sea Foam or another Fuel Injection Cleanser should also be used about every 30,000 miles

Benefits:
1.Running a commercially available cleaner through the injectors while the engine is running removes many of the deposits & varnish on the valves and inside the combustion chambers as well as in the fuel injectors.
2.It takes only 15 minutes to determine, by running the engine, whether the treatment resulted in resolution of the symptoms of the fouling problem (poor idle, etc.).

with & without a catch can

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  #25  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:55 PM
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Yea great pic to illustrate the need for a catch can. I have a few cents to throw in here & some may or may not agree.
1- catch can works & works well, provided you periodically check, empty & clean the can.
2- I personally do all my own maintenance which includes about a can & 1/2 of sea foam in the fuel tank every 3000, then I pour aprox a 1/3 full of sea foam into the catch can & let the motors natural vacuum suck it out thus cleaning intake even further.
3- Oil & filter swap on next refill post my 3000 interval/ foam run thru.
4- Magnusen act. B.S. first off your or any dealer is gonna do one of two things. Address your issue to keep you as a customer & quiet you up or argue your claims, tell you it's your problem & whatever you altered is the direct cause for your issue. (If your motor took a crap post installation of say new rims & tires the dealership will point to this as the direct result). Chrysler as I have experienced will act as though their on your side & they'll "look into the issue further" then you'll go a few w/ out hearing from either & should the dealership choose to not back you the customer & put their foot down in regards to warranty claims you'll be left shaking your head while chrysler tells you they agree w/ the dealership & no further inquiries will be conducted. You'll more likely than not be discouraged & just resolve to purchase another brand next go around. Sorry but U.S. Canada & anywhere else that Magnusen act is equal to toilet paper.
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  #26  
Old 01-17-2014, 08:16 AM
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Do you really need one if you just drive around town? Not really wheeling it.
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  #27  
Old 01-17-2014, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
Long winded but truthful explanation about what a catch can does

Before smog devices, every engine had a Draft Tube, build up of excess pressure that can & will blow out gaskets , that builds up in the Crankcase chamber was vented through the draft tube & dumped out onto the road & also into the air

Along came the smog laws, preventing environmental pollution
basically engineers started using the PVC valve, it took the excess pressure & redirected the oil fumes up to the combustion chamber in the hopes that the spark plugs would burn off the fumes, keeping the oil off the road & out of the air
The spark plugs only partially burn off the fumes & over time the partially burned oil fumes become carbon build up on the pistons surface & on top of the Compression Ring, (The principal function of the piston rings is to form a seal between the combustion chamber and the crankcase of the engine. The goal is to prevent combustion gases from passing into the crankcase and oil from passing into the combustion chamber. During the compression and power strokes, the compression ring seals the combustion gases and prevents blow-by. Although blow-by is not completely eliminated it is kept to an acceptable limit)
The gasoline also has a lubricant in it & does not need any extra oil from the crankcase to get the job done.

Any extra fumes & carbon that do pass through the exhaust valves would normally just pass out of the tail pipe, this was not acceptable to the environmentalists, so the Catalytic converter came into use

The catch can does not eliminate all of the oil fumes from passing into the combustion chamber, but it does cut down on the amount to a degree that the combustion chamber is kept a whole lot cleaner & using Sea Foam or another Fuel Injection Cleanser should also be used about every 30,000 miles

Benefits:
1.Running a commercially available cleaner through the injectors while the engine is running removes many of the deposits & varnish on the valves and inside the combustion chambers as well as in the fuel injectors.
2.It takes only 15 minutes to determine, by running the engine, whether the treatment resulted in resolution of the symptoms of the fouling problem (poor idle, etc.).

with & without a catch can

Where would you put the sea foam? In the gasoline or ? Why every 30000 miles?
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  #28  
Old 01-17-2014, 03:13 PM
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MisterGDRam MisterGDRam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi N Haw View Post
Yea great pic to illustrate the need for a catch can. I have a few cents to throw in here & some may or may not agree.
1- catch can works & works well, provided you periodically check, empty & clean the can.
2- I personally do all my own maintenance which includes about a can & 1/2 of sea foam in the fuel tank every 3000, then I pour aprox a 1/3 full of sea foam into the catch can & let the motors natural vacuum suck it out thus cleaning intake even further.
3- Oil & filter swap on next refill post my 3000 interval/ foam run thru.
4- Magnusen act. B.S. first off your or any dealer is gonna do one of two things. Address your issue to keep you as a customer & quiet you up or argue your claims, tell you it's your problem & whatever you altered is the direct cause for your issue. (If your motor took a crap post installation of say new rims & tires the dealership will point to this as the direct result). Chrysler as I have experienced will act as though their on your side & they'll "look into the issue further" then you'll go a few w/ out hearing from either & should the dealership choose to not back you the customer & put their foot down in regards to warranty claims you'll be left shaking your head while chrysler tells you they agree w/ the dealership & no further inquiries will be conducted. You'll more likely than not be discouraged & just resolve to purchase another brand next go around. Sorry but U.S. Canada & anywhere else that Magnusen act is equal to toilet paper.
Would you recommend using sea foam on a truck that has 15000 miles and I have changed the oil every 2000 miles since brand new?
Why to pour sea foam into the catch can?
Isn't enough in the vacuum for the brake chamber?
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  #29  
Old 01-17-2014, 03:35 PM
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GTyankee GTyankee is online now
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on youtube there are videos showing them pulling the vacuum hose off of the Brake Booster & slowly pouring it into the hose that goes toward the engine, then they pour some into the gas tank

They also shows them pouring it into the Crankcase, which is something that i would Never do on a vehicle that is maintained properly, i don't care what they advise

The dealership at some point will advise that you let them do a Fuel Injector Cleaning, usually they suggest doing it some where near 30,000 miles & believe me, they charge for connecting up that machine

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/



read this
http://www.expertswrite.net/prevent-...-cleaning.html
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  #30  
Old 01-19-2014, 02:28 PM
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From only 200 miles
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