Threw a CEL P018C code

Thunderhorse · Jan 15, 2017

So I finished waxing my truck this afternoon to find that I was out of Rain-X. Fired up the truck to go to Autozone and it didn't roar quite as much as usual-then as the dash lights went off one by one as usual, the CEL stayed on.

Whatever, I am headed to Autozone anyway, so I buy a bottle of Rain-X and have the guy come out with the OBD II scanner and it comes up with "P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor 'B' Circuit." Ok, I figured it wasn't a misfire or anything because the truck seems to run just fine; here are my questions:

-Looking around online it seems that this is a common code to pop up on 2013s-even at much lower mileage than I have, however while I found a bunch of threads on various sites where people said they had the issue, none of them had any resolution or said what the poster did to get it fixed. I assume its just the sensor, but how would I tell that's what it is for sure and not the fuel rail or fuel pump?

-Looking over the warranty paperwork it appears that the fuel system is not covered by powertrain warranty, but is covered by bumper to bumper (3/36,000) and emissions (2,24,000) warranty. Those don't do me any good since I am at 62,000 miles. Does anybody know about how much it will cost to get this fixed?

-How easy is this to fix yourself, and where is the fuel rail pressure sensor located? I know the fuel rails are right on top with the hood open (my engine cover is removed), and it shouldn't be hard to get to, but I am not sure I want to depressurize the fuel system. If its just a pop off the old one, pop the new one back on sort of thing though I will absolutely do it myself assuming I can find it.

Is this something that could be caused by bad gas? I just towed a 4000lb trailer a little more than 120 miles yesterday and it was totally fine; my last fillup was at the same station I usually go to, the Shell by my house.

I appreciate any responses. I am going out of country in a few days and don't want to leave this to my wife to deal with.

GTyankee · Jan 15, 2017

this is a unconfirmed answer ...... from another forum without the Z ...

tack_tech ...
it's been awhile since I changed one but I'm pretty sure it's on the driver side under the engine cover. Should be attached to the fuel line going to the fuel rail.

As I said, it's on the driver side. You can see it in your picture right next to the brake booster. It has the purple part on the connector.

jwheeler ...
You don't replace the connector or any of the wires. Just unplug it and disconnect the fuel line
====================================================================
hopefully this image will come up, if not i will post it in the regular way

it looks like the only thing purple is right at the backside of the 4th coil pack

http:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160305/ac03b421a7826eb350c8b1a6f2052ee4.jpg

huntergreen · Jan 15, 2017

sorry to hear about this thunder. here is what i would do for what is worth. i would check all wiring and connectors. use a multimeter to check voltage. if all that checked out, i would replace the sensor. if you know how, and i dont, might want to check your pcm also. i dont believe this code involves the fuel pump.

Thunderhorse · Jan 15, 2017

Thanks gents,

So looking at that pic GT I know exactly where that purple thing is. I suppose I may stop at Napa on the way to the dealer to see if they have the part, it looks like I won't have to actually fudge with the fuel lines, just the sensor. I'll look up part numbers tonight and be sure to get back with what I find out.

Hunter I will go see what I can get from the multimeter

Thunderhorse · Jan 15, 2017

Ok so I did some googling and found some diagrams and part numbers and I am about 90% sure I found what I need. Its called "Jumper, sensor and tube. Fuel Pressure Sensor, Pressure" Part Number: 68210332AA ; 68210338AA (the first number replaced the second part number)

There are a lot of vendors that sell it, but I will plug Benny's site since he is a supporting vendor. Incidentally he also has it for about the cheapest price I could find:

https://parts.moparonlineparts.com/oe-mopar/68210332aa

Looks like this:

Now this is just what I could find out based on the multiple threads where people had this same issue-seems fairly common for 2013s. Unfortunately most of the people who started those threads did not follow up with any information as to whether they ever got the issue fixed, what ended up fixing it, or any part numbers; with the exception of a single thread on the dark Ram truck board with no Z. Given that the dealer will probably charge me twice the cost of the part to diagnose this issue that I have already had diagnosed, and another 4 times the part cost to buy and install the part, I am going to do this myself.

The Haynes Manual says to depressurize the fuel system which does not seem too difficult or time consuming, then its just R&R the jumper and sensor. Looks like the most difficult part will be actually getting my hands on the part; I want to do it tomorrow while I am off work so hopefully one of the 4 dealers in the area has one in stock, or Napa or someone.

I'll let y'all know if that does the trick. If not it may be the fuel pump or a fuel pump relay, in which case I'll probably just bend over and head to the dealer. This seems to have happened to enough people (especially 2013s) though that I'm pretty sure this will fix it. Apparently some dudes have had theirs go at like 4000 miles :wow:

2013 was the first year for pulse width modulation, which is used for the fuel system (injectors, fuel pump, etc..); that may be why there is the 68210332AA part that replaced the 68210338AA part. Maybe the earlier part was problematic and an alteration was made

MEMTOWN05 · Feb 11, 2017

How do I disconnect the sensor for the purple wire harness

GTyankee · Jan 16, 2017

The company that Benny works for is in Long Island N.Y.

They are good, but they don't control UPS or USPS delivery times

Good Luck

Thunderhorse · Jan 16, 2017

Yeah I am looking to buy one that's already here or if I can't I'll overnight it

Dalt10 · Jan 16, 2017

Went thru the same thing. You can't clear the code. The dealer will have to. I have one of the better code readers and it will not clear it. I had the same P018c code but the dealer said it was something different. Maybe you can fix it but mine ended up easier to take it to the dealer and they fixed it cheap. Read my thread.You posted in it.
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=227959&highlight=p018c

Thunderhorse · Jan 16, 2017

Dalt10 said:
Went thru the same thing. You can't clear the code. The dealer will have to. I have one of the better code readers and it will not clear it. I had the same P018c code but the dealer said it was something different. Maybe you can fix it but mine ended up easier to take it to the dealer and they fixed it cheap. Read my thread.You posted in it.
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=227959&highlight=p018c

Ah ok I remember that now, thanks.

I'm not sure I'd consider $240 cheap, but I just got off the phone with my dad and he keeps telling me I'll screw up and set my truck on fire, so I may just take it to the dealer

09itsmine · Jan 16, 2017

That looks like a really easy part to change. Do it with the engine cold and fuel system depressurized. Change the part with a towel to collect spilled fuel, dispose of this towel correctly call the county and ask them how. Let any fuel that the towel didn't collect evaporate completely before starting it back up. A fan pointed at the truck with the garage door open will speed this up. By the part number change there is definitely a difference in the part. A basic revision is usually a AA to AB or AC change meaning new will work in the place of old and vice versa.

Dalt10 · Jan 17, 2017

I'm sure you can change the part. But you will have to take it to the dealer to erase the code/check engine light. Maybe you can get one of them to do that for free. I think $240 is cheap for any newer car.

Thunderhorse · Jan 17, 2017

Well against my better judgement I took it to the dealer like dad said to do and so now I am paying $109 for them to re diagnose what I had already diagnosed, and told me that that is indeed the part that needs changed. I asked how much it would cost and they said...

Wait for it....

$912!!!!!!!:SHOCKED:

I about told him he was out of his f****** mind.

Definitely doing this myself, going to cut my losses as I will already be paying over twice the part cost for the diagnistic and the part which has at least a 100% markup. Part will be here tomorrow.

Now I gotta figure out how to clear the CEL.

crusher · Jan 18, 2017

Thunderhorse said:
Well against my better judgement I took it to the dealer like dad said to do and so now I am paying $109 for them to re diagnose what I had already diagnosed, and told me that that is indeed the part that needs changed. I asked how much it would cost and they said...

Wait for it....

$912!!!!!!!:SHOCKED:

I about told him he was out of his f****** mind.

Definitely doing this myself, going to cut my losses as I will already be paying over twice the part cost for the diagnistic and the part which has at least a 100% markup. Part will be here tomorrow.

Now I gotta figure out how to clear the CEL.

you can try this;

unplug one battery pole , press on the brake pedal a few times(this action will drain the remaining battery power in the system by trying to turn on brakes lights) and reconnect battery pole.

don't know if it will work for the ram, but it use to work for most older vehicle (90's and 00's, American vehicle (most of the time it didn't work on imports)) ,.. and it's free to try

Dalt10 · Jan 17, 2017

Let us know how it goes.

Thunderhorse · Jan 17, 2017

Will do, I'm about to head to the dealer. I will get a printed up quote and call a few dealers afterwards to compare prices. Even at $150 for the part there is no way its another $750 for labor. I may lodge a complaint with Chrysler Customer Care.

ETA: Meant to submit this before I left, got back and realized I hadn't hit the enter button

Thunderhorse · Jan 17, 2017

Ok, just got home. Here is the break down of the quote they gave me:

-Labor: 3.93 hrs @ $123.36/hr= $486.06 (Problem 1-this is not a 4 hour job)
-Parts: Fuel Rail and sensor = $459.45 (Problem 2-the fuel rail does not need replaced)
-Fuel System Treatment: $48.61 :i_rolleyes: (Even if I got the job done at the dealer and this were absolutely necessary I'd do it myself)
-Tax: $66.19

Total: $1060.31

I brought it to the service advisor's attention that the fuel rail (which costs $412.50) doesn't need replaced according to what he told me. He recalculated and it came to $665.22 with fuel injector treatment, or $531.22 without. Whatever, I'll buy myself a few bottles of Techron.
Better, but still too high.

So, here I sit, $289.51 poorer for my own weak constitution-befuddled as to why I let dad's apocalyptic warnings cow me into the service department (he agreed that quote was way high btw and told me I was right to do it myself now:doh

. Live and learn I guess. On the plus side, the dealer will clear the CEL for me for free when I get the work done, so its not as bad as it could be; I was anticipating that to be another $150.

I have the part on the table next to me right now, it is indeed 68210332AA. Apparently there was also another truck in the shop for the same issue today. The fittings are literally snap on clips-I feel like a total idiot for not just ordering it and paying for overnight shipping. I'd definitely be money ahead:hitfan:

I will post a write-up when I get the work done, so at least there will be a thread somewhere on the internet that tells people how to do this.

Let this be a lesson to everyone-the internet and auto parts store code reader will save you hundreds or thousands of dollars if you just do a little searching around, especially if the issue is relatively common. The mechanic is a man just like you, and you can do all the same steps he can. Sure he has more training, but for simple things do your own maintenance-I am at least to poor not to.

huntergreen · Jan 17, 2017

thats why i like the lifetime warranties.

Thunderhorse · Jan 18, 2017

Do they cover sensors? I expect sensors to go bad over time and don't consider it a big deal. That would be like replacing shocks or TPMS sensors under warranty

striker2237 · Jan 17, 2017

Nvm. My bad, didn't finish reading the rest of the thread.

Anyhow still, PM me if you want my thoughts on working with the fuel system. I assume you still want to be the one to fix since the dealership wants your soul for the work lol!

(God this make me glad I can fix/upgrade myself. I forgot just how much they charge!)

Explorer Rob · Jan 18, 2017

Yes all sensors are covered. Even radiator upper and lower hoses are covered. My Maximum Care Warranty covers everything on my truck except:

Maintenance services and items used in such services
Wear items (such as tires, manual clutch assembly, brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, belts and wipers)
Snow plows, winches and trailer hitches
Body and paint items, including soft trim
Remote transmitters & headphones
Glass and plastic lenses

GTyankee · Jan 18, 2017

The trucks computer set the Code

The trucks computer can shut off the code

you need to follow this procedure:
http://www.obd2.com/support/reprog/downloads/chrysler/chry-imset_procedure.pdf

ignore Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
- MIL must be off
- Cold start (Note: cold start temperature is undefined)

Borrow a good Code Reader, it must have the Drive Cycle checks ( 8 checks is normal )

you can use the code reader before, during & after doing the Drive Cycle

DRIVE CYCLES

If the MIL lamp comes on while driving, or remains on after starting the engine, it means OBD II has detected a problem. The lamp will usually remain on -- unless the fault does not reoccur in three consecutive drive cycles that encounter the same operating conditions, or the fault is not detected for another 40 drive cycles. If OBD II sees no further evidence of the problem, it will turn off the MIL lamp and erase the code.

An OBD II drive cycle is not just turning the ignition key on and off or starting the engine. A drive cycle requires starting a cold engine and driving the vehicle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. The next drive cycle doesn't begin until the engine has been shut off, allowed to cool back down and is restarted again. On some vehicles, the drive cycle also includes the cold soak time between trips. On some vehicles, the EVAP monitor won't run unless the vehicle has sit for eight hours. There no way to bypass or get around such requirements, so you have to do what ever the system requires. And if that means waiting, you have to wait.

Most Techs will mention that normal driving for 2 weeks should do the same thing as doing a dedicated Drive Cycle

I have gone to places like Pep Boys & they can't seem to keep this Code Reader in stock, it has the Drive Cycle Mode checker
several other scanners have it also, but this one would be perfect for my uses
It would pay for itself in my neighborhood
Auto Parts stores in California are Not Allowed to check to see if your vehicle will or will not pass the Emissions Test, because it would take money away from the Emissions REPAIR Shops
If your vehicle passes the 8 Drive Cycle Tests, there every chance that it will pass the Emissions Check if the emissions Visual Check passes

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vj9dJtvqOpw

Thunderhorse · Jan 18, 2017

Ok, all done. Here is what you'll want to do:

1) Relieve fuel system pressure
a) Open gas cap
b) Pull the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay, this shuts off fuel
c) Try starting the truck, it should immediately stall or not start at all. Mine did not start
d) Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

2) Remove the old sensor/line. The connectors are easy to figure out if you have the new part to look at. I disconnected the one from the fuel rail first (red one), then the one that connects to the line off the fuel tank (blue one). Note that these are different types of connectors, the red one has a sort of gate that wraps around the line to cover it all the way around.

The wiring harness was the most difficult to get off. There is a shroud that covers the latch that clips to the sensor, I had to get a narrow flat blade screwdriver under there to pop off the latch.

3) Once that was done I connected the blue end, red end, then the wiring harness. The part will now be on, you just need to reinstall the ASD relay and connect the battery in that order.

My clock lost the time, but the CEL did reset itself. The job was overall easier than I thought it would be. The hardest part was getting in position to reach the line which is back by the firewall. I had to get a blanket and drape it over the fender like I did when changing spark plugs, then leaned on the intake manifold with my elbow.

Dellagratti · Jan 21, 2017

I got this today and glad you fixed yours. I do have a question though. Where is the ASD? And what did you do to get pressure back in fuel lines or is it an automatic thing when starting?

crusher · Jan 19, 2017

good job and good write up AGAIN

:smileup::smileup:

Thunderhorse · Jan 19, 2017

Thanks. I was going to get pics but I didn't have enough hands to hold a camera without falling into the engine bay. Once you have the part and play a little bit with the fasteners it will be pretty obvious how to do it.

The hardest part of the job was dealing with the wife when she got upset about the fuel smell from the towel I put down to catch the fuel that spilled out of the line. The job itself was easier than changing an oil filter without spilling.

I can't get over the fact I took it to the dealer. That was a bonehead move that ended up costing me 4x what it should have. Live and learn.

huntergreen · Jan 19, 2017

nice write up. good to hear thunderhorse is back to 100% again.

AW139 · Jan 19, 2017

I went to the dealer to take delivery of my new truck with 22km on it. Check engine light was on. The salesman was suprised to see the CEL. Took it into service, was told it was a fuel pressure issue and they would need to order a fuel rail psi sensor. Reset CEL, light came on immediately. Dealer replaced fuel rail sensor. CEL came on again. Ordered a fuel control pressure module, dealer replaced, cold soaked and did some tests. CEL has not returned. 860km on the truck now. Its worth mentioning that it was below -20 degrees C when I took delivery and all of this troubleshooting was going on. I will post the code's I was getting later as I do not have my paperwork with me.

AW139 · Jan 20, 2017

P062A Fuel pump control performance. I think this is mounted to the tank. It's not the actual pump. My understanding is they did not have to drop the tank.

Dellagratti · Jan 28, 2017

Just did the part exchange. It was straight forward if you follow what Thunderhorse did. However, I have 2 thing to add.

1. When you remove fuses/relay and disconnect battery terminal (-) let it sit for 30 minutes and youll have zero fuel spillage. I read that the fuel pressure is automatically relieved after 20 minutes. BONUS: the removal of (-) terminal is what resets CEL code.

2. When you pull old part its a whole lot easier to attach the sensor to new part before connecting the fuel line (obvious to the veteran mechanic).

Thunderhorse · Jan 28, 2017

Thanks for the follow up. Definitely good additions

MEMTOWN05 · Feb 11, 2017

Thanks!!!

Ok thanks I'll try the flat head screw driver trick to see if it works. Also I don't know why this part is so hard to find. Only 3rd party sites and the actual dealer sells this part.

Big horn 2015 · Feb 17, 2017

I replaced the fuel pressure sensor myself you might need quick disconnect fuel line tool. I purchased sensor on Amazon for $49.0. Took 1 hr and disconnected battery for 30 min to clear P018C code.

Auto Zone scanned for me for free and I took picture of scanner code with my phone and looked up part number on line . Seems to becommon problem I had 40k miles on 2015 Big Horn. Eco mode back on and no engine light easy fix if you are semi mechanically inclined . Hope this helps.

MEMTOWN05 · Feb 17, 2017

Thanks for the advice

I'm going to try it this weekend. The only problem I think that looks hard is disconnecting the fuse from the wire. 49 bucks is cheap. The cheapest price I found was 70 bucks on eBay. I should've check amazon. Thanks for the help

latinojose · Feb 27, 2017

Well it looks like I am having the same problem. I also have a 2013 Ram 1500 and yesterday my T-Mobile syncup drive advised me about a DTC code P018< so I am assuming it has to be the same code you fellas are talking about here.. My truck seems to be running just fine with out hesitation so my first question would be, is it dangerous not to have it fixed right away? Or is it just something that is just going to prevent me to pass emissions test? I will keep an eye on this thread for a few days and see if someone finds out more related information. Thanks to all for your valuable input

Thunderhorse · Feb 27, 2017

I lost about 2 mpg during this time. i am not entirely sure of its function but it may have to do with the pulse width modulation of the fuel system and place more strain on the fuel pump but IDK.

In my experience it os best to fix things ASAP before small parts can affect big ones and cost even more. I was fine driving about 250 miles to work and back before I got the part changed out, so I wouldn't worry about that as long as you place a priority on changing out the part. There was a guy on a Hellcat board whose car eventually just shut off after driving 500 mi or so after throwing the code

Threw a CEL P018C code

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