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View Poll Results: What Brand of Motor Oil Do You Use?
Amsoil 77 10.13%
Castrol 67 8.82%
Dealer 46 6.05%
Havoline 5 0.66%
Mobil 263 34.61%
Pennzoil 80 10.53%
Quarker State 29 3.82%
Royal Purple 79 10.39%
Vavoline 72 9.47%
Not Listed 42 5.53%
Voters: 760. You may not vote on this poll

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  #131  
Old 07-16-2012, 11:51 PM
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Well guys in the first few pages i saw a number of you spending your $ on a trk of choice and leave its health in the hands of someone with a dodge shirt and tag on their over alls...
I drive a rig for a liven and i have learned to study your product....Do you guys realize that many of those service reps and tecs dont know as much as you think...Many of the dealers have techs that only know one thing,do what the computer tells them...Thet fix the end result and not the cause......If your wheel falls off do you just buy another wheel?? ok the tech puts a new wheel on,prob solved right?? wrong...."WHY" did the wheel come off,bearings destroy themselves cause they were to tight,were the lug nuts tightened......Same idea about oils,tires,hids ect....Do some research and find out whats worth 2.99 a liter(quart) or 10.00 a liter(quart)...
For you guys who are not proactive in what dealer does should be put out to pasture..Whos ta say they dont put pig slop or dog crap or drain a cpl quarts and add used oil from the 205963 mile 1976 plymouth fury that grandma is doin the 1st oil change...YOUR truck and your money make the dealership work for it..

FYI....Oil doesnt wear out but its the addiditves within that oil that are over come with contamination...If you start the trk,drive 2 min to the store,shut it down 2 minutes later you start it again and drive home....You do that a few hundred time over the 3000-5000 mi oil changes,you would be surprized how quickly oil get over come..
Here is a site to give you a lil knowledge in in what happens in oil.....This site is geared twards big trucks with diesel engine but i hope this can help in your studys
http://www.polarislabs.com/test-list.php
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Last edited by craigsez; 07-17-2012 at 12:02 AM.
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  #132  
Old 07-17-2012, 01:16 AM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zonestar View Post
It seems like a favorite question among members is what is the best motor oil to use. Of course we all have our favorites from what was used by generations before us and we do not break tradition, misinformation from some auto mechanics that have been using it for over 40 years, and also the television commercial said it was good. So lets vote on your brand that you like and feel free to elaborate why.
15W40 Shell Rotella T ONLY in my diesel. Because the only thing better for a diesel is Red Line Synthetic & it's too expensive -- an oil change in my truck is 12 quarts (3 gallons). Red Line Synthetic lubricants in the drivetrain because there I can justify the cost. And I use Red Line engine oil in the Harley Sportsters.

FWIW, I'm a (semi-retired) automotive/mechanical/manufacturing engineer, at one time I worked for a chemical engineer & I've spoken @ length with 2 others. Red Line is the best synthetic there is -- BUT -- it would have to last 10 times as long as the Rotella T to come out about the same price-wise ($13/gal. vs. $131/gal.) & NO synthetic does -- nor can it.

Oil doesn't "wear out" but the additives in it sure do & when the detergents have done all they can do you have to change, even when the oil is still lubricating & cooling just fine. Especially if there are aluminum parts inside your engine -- "blow by" (unburned or partially burned air/fuel mixture that gets past the piston rings) contaminates engine oil & forms compounds that "eat" aluminum, so dirty oil has to go, although the every 3000 miles sales pitch is generally too soon -- today's engines have "tighter" clearances, better machining & less blow-by -- see what the owner's manual recommends & go from there.

But gear oils in the differential(s), transmission, transfer case, etc. do not get contaminated unless moisture gets inside the gear housing & there synthetic oils can last almost indefinitely. Still have to check @ recommended intervals, but synthetic oils don't have or need as many additives as conventional oils & as long as they stay clean & don't get overheated they'll do fine. Also, I drove semis cross-country back in the late '70's & it's interesting to note that before trucking companies or independents started trying synthetic engine oils, nearly everyone had already switched to synthetic in the driveline (transmissions, axles) & recording some cost savings.

When you're running 140,000 miles/year, even a little savings in cost-per-mile adds up & that's the best way to measure the cost of anything for your pickup -- break all expenses down to cost-per-mile driven, not just the initial purchase price. If you don't do that in the trucking business you'll soon go broke & keeping track of cost-per-mile will save you $$$ in your "daily driver".
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  #133  
Old 08-13-2012, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigsez View Post
Well guys in the first few pages i saw a number of you spending your $ on a trk of choice and leave its health in the hands of someone with a dodge shirt and tag on their over alls...
I drive a rig for a liven and i have learned to study your product....Do you guys realize that many of those service reps and tecs dont know as much as you think...Many of the dealers have techs that only know one thing,do what the computer tells them...Thet fix the end result and not the cause......If your wheel falls off do you just buy another wheel?? ok the tech puts a new wheel on,prob solved right?? wrong...."WHY" did the wheel come off,bearings destroy themselves cause they were to tight,were the lug nuts tightened......Same idea about oils,tires,hids ect....Do some research and find out whats worth 2.99 a liter(quart) or 10.00 a liter(quart)...
For you guys who are not proactive in what dealer does should be put out to pasture..Whos ta say they dont put pig slop or dog crap or drain a cpl quarts and add used oil from the 205963 mile 1976 plymouth fury that grandma is doin the 1st oil change...YOUR truck and your money make the dealership work for it..

FYI....Oil doesnt wear out but its the addiditves within that oil that are over come with contamination...If you start the trk,drive 2 min to the store,shut it down 2 minutes later you start it again and drive home....You do that a few hundred time over the 3000-5000 mi oil changes,you would be surprized how quickly oil get over come..
Here is a site to give you a lil knowledge in in what happens in oil.....This site is geared twards big trucks with diesel engine but i hope this can help in your studys
http://www.polarislabs.com/test-list.php
My brain's hurting trying to understand what you just said.

That's all.....
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Truck was sold today [5/19]. I got an offer I couldn't turn down. I had no more need for a pickup so I cut it loose. About to purchase a '14 Jeep SRT8 this week.

Grub out!
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  #134  
Old 08-13-2012, 08:33 PM
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I put M1 5w-20 in mine, with the M1-210 filter. I get the local lube center to change mine out and watch them all the time cause I've learned my lesson with other lube centers.
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  #135  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:52 AM
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All the dealerships use Pennzoil for gas engines
for diesels they use Rotella

both are Shell Oil Products

I don't know of anyone that knows just which oil filter they use, could it be a FRAM?

The box just reads Magneti Marelli. & some #s
http://www.magnetimarelli.com/
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  #136  
Old 09-22-2012, 04:02 AM
ArtNJr ArtNJr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
I don't know of anyone that knows just which oil filter they use, could it be a FRAM?

The box just reads Magneti Marelli.
Two completely different companies & a Fram filter is about the last one you want -- cardboard end caps, pressure relief valves that leak, etc. -- the quality is nowhere near what it once was. Since there's a NAPA store right down the road from me I get their "Gold" filter which is made by Wix (NAPA also has a "Silver" line of products).

Here's one article about different brands of filters with photos of 'em taken apart:


http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

Excerpt:

"While there are dozens of oil filter brands out there, there are only a few actual manufacturers. Most filters you see on the shelf are sold by companies that don't actually make oil filters. The exceptions are Baldwin/Hastings, Champ, Donaldson, Purolator, and Dana/WIX. Those are actual manufacturers and you can be fairly certain of what is inside the can. Although Fram hasn't made filters in decades, it seems that the brand is tied closely enough to Honeywell that you can be pretty sure about what is in the orange can (for better or for worse)."
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  #137  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:18 PM
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Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet but I used to use M1 religiously with all my vehicles. But, according to M1's website, whether conventional or synthetic 5W20, neither oil meets the requirements of Chryslers MS-6395 requirements anymore. It only shows the API certification label. This is important to think about if a warranty issue should arise with engine malfunction or failure. And yes, when such a failure occurs, we are always asked to provide a test tube size flask of engine oil out of the failed engine by the warranty representative to take back with him for testing.
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  #138  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:08 AM
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Pennzoil Platinum is currently the best mass-marketed synthetic. It used to be Mobil1, but their quality has fallen off in recent years. Next choices would be Amsoil or Royal Purple.
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  #139  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:54 AM
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I run Mobil 1 in all my machines. A chemical engineer on a ATV forum did a very detailed write up on some of differences between the major brands.
Amsoil was top, Mobil 1 a close second, and since mobil 1 products are easier to find wherever I'm at, I choose mobil 1
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  #140  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:19 AM
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Mobile oil says that they exceed the chrysler specs,
they just are not going through all the tests to prove it
it costs too much & they don't think an extra certification is worth the cost

I believe them & i sure as hell won't put Pennzoil into anything that i own
they left a bad taste in my mouth way back when most of you were not even born yet
Back then it was really Pennsylvania oil & would not mix with any other oil, it gummed up an engine faster than any other motor oil product made
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