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  #1  
Old 06-10-2012, 10:46 AM
Boston James Boston James is offline
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Default P0760 code

Hello everyone. My truck is giving a code and is not running well so I was wondering if anyone had any advice.
Yesterday my wife was driving the truck and it started to stall and run rough. Today I tried it and it was doing the same. Also it seemed like it was pulling a heavy load but it wasn't.
I plugged the code reader in and got a P0760 Shift SolenoidC
I know that I am well passed due for a transmission servicing so I'm wondering if I should get this done first and see if this corrects the problem?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Kevin
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:25 PM
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Get your service done and replace the solenoid pack at the same time. Make sure they use mopar fluid and filters.
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:58 PM
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P0760


Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shift solenoid C valve
- Shift solenoid C valve harness or connectors
- Shift solenoid C valve circuit is open or shorted
When is the code detected?
The P0760 code is detected when the TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve. Symptoms- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Transmission will not shift gears.
P0760 Description Shift solenoid valve C is turned ON or OFF by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch, vehicle speed and Engine Control Module (ECM) (throttle opening). Gears will then be shifted to the optimum position.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This was put out before 2008, but still may apply

NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 42 RLE automatic
transmission (sales code DG6


http://engine-codes.com/uploads/chrysler/21-009-05.pdf
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:31 AM
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You may just have a wiring problem. Does this same fault reset every trip? Trans is in limp-in (4th gear only) all the time in Drive?

Servicing the trans (fluid and filters) is fine, if it's time for that, but that will NOT fix the problem. You need to diagnose it first to figure out where the problem is.

P0760 is OD Solenoid Circuit Error, which indicates a problem with (duh) the OD solenoid circuit. This fault will put you in full limp-in mode (4th gear all the time with no TCC engagement), so truck will feel really sluggish when you launch from a stop, and will have high RPMs at speed. Do not drive it for extended distances in limp-in; it is easy to overheat the trans if you run in limp-in. Restarting the engine will clear the limp-in condition (as long as the solenoid circuit keeps working OK), but if the problem is there all the time it will go right back into limp-in again.

The PCM periodically (every 10 seconds, I think) checks the continuity of each of the main clutch solenoid coils. There are six of these solenoids (LR, UD, OD, 2C, 4C, and MS). To check each solenoid, the PCM briefly changes the state (turns it off if it was on, or on if it was off), and then turns it back to its original state. When each solenoid is on, it develops a magnetic field around the solenoid coil. When the current is turned off, this magnetic field collapses, which induces a short voltage spike on the solenoid wire. The PCM monitors the voltage on the solenoid wire, after it turns the solenoid off, and watches for this induced spike. If it fails to see the spike, it repeats the test. After I think 3 successive failures, it sets the related fault code (for the OD solenoid, P0760) and puts you into limp-in.

Now there are basically three different problems that can cause a solenoid circuit fault:
Solenoid coil is open (broken coil wire)
Wiring between solenoid and PCM is bad (open, or shorted into another wire)
Solenoid driver chip in PCM is bad (either not activating the solenoid properly, or not recognizing the voltage spike)

The problem is in tracking down which one of these is the real root cause. I would suggest you first try simply disconnecting (and reconnecting) the trans wiring harness. Sometimes the connection on one of the pins gets flaky, and simply unplugging it and then reseating it fixes the issue. So disconnect the harness at both ends (trans and PCM), inspect the connectors (look for bent pins, pins that are pushed part-way back into the connector, water or other contamination, corrosion, etc.), and then re-connect.
Make sure the key is OFF when you pull the connectors. On the PCM, there should be four (4) identical main connectors. The trans harness is the 4th connector (so it will be one of the end ones), and usually has a green stripe or mark on or next to the connector.

At the transmission, the main electrical harness is on the driver's side of the trans. The 23-pin connector is on the solenoid / valve body and sticks vertically up out of the trans, a few inches above the oil pan rail.

The harness connector has a locking lever and a secondary latch. The transmission side of the connector is square and has two small round posts sticking out of opposite sides of the connector (one towards the front of the vehicle, one towards the rear). The locking lever on the harness (which is probably gray in color) wraps around three sides of the connector. The latch is on the driver's side. The two sides that wrap around have slots that engage with the two posts on the transmission connector. When the connector is unplugged, the locking lever (latch side) is down (toward the open end of the harness). When you plug it into the trans, the slots engage with the posts. Then, you push the locking lever latch bar up, which rotates the locking lever and clamps the harness connector down into the trans connector (by grabbing and pulling on those posts). I know this is hard to visualize... sorry but I don't have a picture.

To disconnect the harness, you first need to release the secondary lock. This is typically a red plastic piece (on the driver's side of the connector, just below the locking lever latch bar, which will be at the TOP of the connector when it's locked). You'll need to slide this red secondary lock either up or down (I'm not sure which, probably down but I'm not positive) before you can unlock the lever. Once that's done, reach up above and behind the center of the locking lever. The latch that holds the locking lever is just behind the face of the center of the locking lever (there's about 1/4 inch space between them). Put your finger behind the face of the locking lever, and push it and the latch APART. You need to push the latch (the piece just behind the top of the locking lever) in, towards the transmission (away from the locking lever) in order to release it. Once the locking lever pops free, rotate it down as you lift the harness up and off.

When you go to re-connect it, make sure the locking lever is DOWN (towards the open end of the harness connector) so it will engage the posts on the trans connector, then plug it in and rotate the locking lever up til it latches. Then slide the secondary lock into position to retain it.

If unplugging the harness fixes things, you're home free. If you still have issues, post again and I can give you details on how to troubleshoot further.
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:29 PM
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Im guessing that fixed his issue. you are always so informative i rep you for that sir!
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