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  #11  
Old 10-24-2009, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airdog View Post
Wow! Thats good to know. I've been thinking about swapping out the stock
muffler for a Mufflex kit. I'm really suprised you had those problems. They make
it sound like its a simple swap and a perfect fit on their website.

I wonder if you would have had the same issues with fitment if you had gone with the 18" kit.
I'm thinking of going with the 18" myself for a little more tone.
First, the tabs on the pipes don't get ground off. There is plenty of engagement left beyond them. Just slide the muffler on till it hits the nub.

The tips can be aligned to the bumper. If you don't get the tailpipes lined up back to exactly where they were from the factory, the tip location in the bumper will be off. It is a very simple adjustment though as they have a ball type joint about 18" from the tip so they can be moved around to line them up. There is so much adjustment available, you could install the tailpipes on a bumper without cutouts and line them up below the bumper without them hitting.

As for the clamps not tightening up, the rear clamps have been an issue as mentioned on all the forums. All you do is cut a few slots in the muffler so it can close up a little tighter. You shouldn't have to but it has been mentioned over and over that this is an issue. Also, place the clamp as close to the edge of the pipe as possible so you get the maximum clamping pressure. It is a tradeoff to having the muffler removable. You could use crush clamps or weld it on but then you would never be able to go back to stock should you wish.

In the picture below, you can see where I put my clamps and the tab up against the joint. No leaks whatsoever. I did cut an additional slot 90 deg from the ones on the Mufflex ones though so it looks like a + sign. Just don't go too deep or you would then have a leak from the slot. I stopped a little short of where the Mufflex slots ended depthwise.

Overall, it isn't too bad. But like almost everything you buy today that is suppsed to be an exact fit, you need to tweek it a little. I didn't want to do any welding on my pipes and wanted to do it all myself so this was about the only real option out there. (If you plan to weld it on, just go to a muffler shop and get them to install a muffler) I got the 24" kit and it is not too loud. Actually think the 18" may be OK too unless you are towing. When towing with the 24", it's about the loudest I would want, especially on hills. So the 18" would probably be too much.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2009, 07:50 AM
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The ball type joint near the end of the pipes gives the pipe the wrong angle. I tried moving it and it still didn't look right. I guess no two mufflex are alike, because if I wouldn't have grinded off the tabs, I was having more leaking issues and the tips stuck out way past the bumper and just didnt look right. I guess the best advice to give anyone purchasing this set-up woull be, be ready for a little tweeking to get a good fit.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgun View Post
First, the tabs on the pipes don't get ground off. There is plenty of engagement left beyond them. Just slide the muffler on till it hits the nub.

The tips can be aligned to the bumper. If you don't get the tailpipes lined up back to exactly where they were from the factory, the tip location in the bumper will be off. It is a very simple adjustment though as they have a ball type joint about 18" from the tip so they can be moved around to line them up. There is so much adjustment available, you could install the tailpipes on a bumper without cutouts and line them up below the bumper without them hitting.

As for the clamps not tightening up, the rear clamps have been an issue as mentioned on all the forums. All you do is cut a few slots in the muffler so it can close up a little tighter. You shouldn't have to but it has been mentioned over and over that this is an issue. Also, place the clamp as close to the edge of the pipe as possible so you get the maximum clamping pressure. It is a tradeoff to having the muffler removable. You could use crush clamps or weld it on but then you would never be able to go back to stock should you wish.

In the picture below, you can see where I put my clamps and the tab up against the joint. No leaks whatsoever. I did cut an additional slot 90 deg from the ones on the Mufflex ones though so it looks like a + sign. Just don't go too deep or you would then have a leak from the slot. I stopped a little short of where the Mufflex slots ended depthwise.

Overall, it isn't too bad. But like almost everything you buy today that is suppsed to be an exact fit, you need to tweek it a little. I didn't want to do any welding on my pipes and wanted to do it all myself so this was about the only real option out there. (If you plan to weld it on, just go to a muffler shop and get them to install a muffler) I got the 24" kit and it is not too loud. Actually think the 18" may be OK too unless you are towing. When towing with the 24", it's about the loudest I would want, especially on hills. So the 18" would probably be too much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smartel View Post
The ball type joint near the end of the pipes gives the pipe the wrong angle. I tried moving it and it still didn't look right. I guess no two mufflex are alike, because if I wouldn't have grinded off the tabs, I was having more leaking issues and the tips stuck out way past the bumper and just didnt look right. I guess the best advice to give anyone purchasing this set-up woull be, be ready for a little tweeking to get a good fit.
Great info from both of you and I'm sure I speak for all that we greatly appreciate you sharing your experience with us. I put a MBRP direct bolt on dual exhaust kit on my 2006 Ram and it installed with very little issues. I plan to install either the 24 or 18 Mufflex kit on my 09 and was expecting it to be like the MBRP kit I installed so I'm glad you posted this to prepare me for what could very well be a challenge. Thanks again for the great infor shared!!
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