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  #21  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefred112 View Post
uh..try 5/8th's with the rubber boot....most used for spark plug changes are 3/8" drive sockets an wratchet's seein as spark plugs are mostly tq'ed to 7lbs which doesn't require any drive bigger then 3/8th's... AND, we were all virgins at one time or another...
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Originally Posted by Incognito View Post
You can pick up spark plug tool kits at your local hardware store, if not build your own kit with the following:

Spark Plug Sockets (5/8", 3/4", 13/16")
3/8" Drive Ratchet
4" Extension
6" Extension
3/8" Drive Universal Joint
Nose Picker*

* I don't know what these are normally called, but these are so handy to have around. Remerson knows what I'm talking about. It's a long, flexible tube around 80cm long with a prong at one end for you to pick up stuff from tight spaces you can't normally reach.



I don't have the slightest idea what you're talking about.

Good info
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  #22  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Incognito View Post
Good stuff man. You learn a lot from doing things on your own, and if you break things, which'll happen, then you keep on going and keep on fixing. Far better than paying someone else to do it. Invest in some good tools and keep logging onto the forum and asking questions.
+1 on that, DIY.

Just did my '03's front brakes, haven't touched a floating caliper disc brake in years (my track car and others use fixed 4-piston fronts and are much easier to maintain, pad changes can be done w/o tools in 15 minutes).

But I didn't have much choice, my front pass brake was stuck closed and chewing through the rotor. I couldn't see paying someone hundreds of dollars to replace pads and rotors. Turns out I had to replace the caliper, too, pistons were cracked and melted inside - yes, the OEM were plastic.

Didn't look too bad other than the heat and rust wiped the dust shield - my wife drove the truck like this for 100+ of miles before she told me there "seems to be something wrong with the brakes"



But once inside things were much worse than they looked



Curiously enough the new caliper uses steel, or at least the part you can see before installation of the 2 pistons is all steel.



So, $460 in rotors/pads (all 4 corners, Powerslot rotors with EBC Green Stuff Pads) plus a new caliper (~$120) and some fluid, all done. Wish I had time to put in new lines, too, but I will save that for when I flush all the old fluid and do the lines then. I didn't want to get into the ABS bleed procedure this round with the time I had available.

MUCH better than paying even more to have someone else do it, when I could take care of it myself at home.
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  #23  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:48 PM
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Oh, add $7 for 2 washers for the banjo bolt from the local stealership, outrageous price for 2 copper washers. But you don't want to reuse 6 year old washers that seal the brake line/caliper junction. If I had to do all 4 that would have been 8 washers, $28 and they didn't even have enough of them them in stock.

My rotors/pads from autopartswarehouse, free shipping on the order - no small issue with four rotors almost 13" in diameter!

The nice thing with 4 discs too is no really special tools required, just strong sockets and a 1/2" torque wrench, you need to pay close attention to the torque specs.

hth - full pics here
http://picasaweb.google.com/skylineg..._Truck_Brakes#
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Last edited by Pride0aries; 01-02-2010 at 01:49 PM. Reason: added link
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  #24  
Old 01-02-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Pride0aries View Post
Oh, add $7 for 2 washers for the banjo bolt from the local stealership, outrageous price for 2 copper washers. But you don't want to reuse 6 year old washers that seal the brake line/caliper junction. If I had to do all 4 that would have been 8 washers, $28 and they didn't even have enough of them them in stock.
That's true about not resuing the washers, but I've never seen a new or reman piece that didn't have them included. You should have been able to pic some up at any parts store.
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  #25  
Old 01-02-2010, 02:32 PM
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I have had to reuse them from time to time . If they wouldn't reseal , throw a little heat to them with a torch . Then their fine . I would also strongly recommend replacing the other caliper .
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  #26  
Old 01-02-2010, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toms Blue Ram 1500 View Post
I have had to reuse them from time to time . If they wouldn't reseal , throw a little heat to them with a torch . Then their fine . I would also strongly recommend replacing the other caliper .

Re:washers that was my first question, too, were they included? Nope. They were pretty messed up on that side, probably due to heat. I don't see how, ahem, anyone could have driven it so much with the brake dragging like that. I have strong aversion to anyone else driving my truck as it's not the first time - a basic rear flat turned into a totally shredded relatively new tire because she didn't notice that for several miles... At least the wheel was ok!

This was all that was left of one of the pads on that side




I plan to replace the driver's side caliper, figure if one stuck chances are pretty good the other might do the same. None were in stock at three local Dodge places I checked. I really needed the truck back on the road "yesterday" due to all the snowfall, so I didn't want to wait and do it later, leaving it in pieces on stands with the tail end of the truck sticking out of the garage. IDK why, but nobody seems to carry much stock locally, it's always "I can have that for you in two or three days from the NY distributor" - if I am going to wait two or more days, I sure as hell am not going to pay their markup, in this case easily $25 more than elsewhere for the caliper plus sales tax on top of that.

Driver's side caliper has the same design as the one I replaced, and the ends of the pistons show some signs that look like fatigue or potential cracking down the road. They otherwise look pretty much normal, seals were ok, too. It won't be much of a big deal to swap over the pads and line, I'll wait until I have 4 new lines and do both at once all the way around. When you see the driver's side line you know why. I just started using Fluid Film on the exposed underbody parts which will hopefully avoid rust like this. Looks worse than it was when I cleaned things up:



That's the downside of DIY, even planning ahead, sometimes it means you only can do as much as you have time and parts for. We've had at least two more snowstorms since I did the work on Monday, and today another 6" or so, my roads are at the end of town - last plowed. With the truck, I don't really care if it's plowed or not.

Good truck
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  #27  
Old 01-02-2010, 04:17 PM
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That thing looks horrible . You did replace the brake hoses ? I'm sure , they look just as bad as the calipers did .
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  #28  
Old 01-02-2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toms Blue Ram 1500 View Post
That thing looks horrible . You did replace the brake hoses ? I'm sure , they look just as bad as the calipers did .
Not yet, the hoses were actually better than they looked or I'd have just parked it. One side heat was clearly a problem, the dust shield just crumbled pass side while the driver's side is fine, and the driver's side pads had quite a bit more wear left. Almost all my pics are passenger side, after cleaning off the junk it looks a lot better, but not great:



I need to replace all the brake fluid (only 28k miles, but 6 years). I'll do all 4 lines then.

Any suggestions for sourcing stainless lines for the RAM? I could go with a set of OEM, too, I just would normally upgrade the lines when I replace them.
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  #29  
Old 01-02-2010, 05:14 PM
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Hopefully this stuff will help keep the rust off the underside a bit better. Friends who plow professionally swear by it here. If it can keep steel from rusting on a marine offshore rig it should work pretty well:



http://www.fluid-film.com/products/index.html
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  #30  
Old 01-02-2010, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incognito View Post
...* I don't know what these are normally called, but these are so handy to have around. Remerson knows what I'm talking about. It's a long, flexible tube around 80cm long with a prong at one end for you to pick up stuff from tight spaces you can't normally reach...
I just got a nice little variation on that from my son at Christmas - has a light with a magnet. Not as versatile as the grippers for picking up things but very strong led light built into the tip and a strong magnet:



Not bad for $5, telescoping from 6" to 26". The photo top is linked to their site.
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