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Engine Cleaning Cleaning the Engine bay and under body. Degreasing etc.


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  #11  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:59 PM
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I lightly spray the engine compartment with water, then mist everything with simple green. I have a real soft bristled brush and use it to scrub where I can reach. Rinse things off gently and use compressed air to blow the water off. When everything is dry, I apply VRT(vinyl,rubber,tires) with a sponge. VRT is very similar to Armor All, but I think it lasts longer and does a little better job.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:51 PM
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It's ok to spray the motor , just be careful not to concentrate a stream on any one component or electrical connector . Remember moisture is a electrical systems worst enemy .
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2010, 07:27 PM
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I personally have never had any type of problem when I detail my engines. Basically, spray off the dust, then give it a good scrub with your least favorite brush spritzing every now and then with simple green dilution (10:1) until everything is sparkly clean. Then rinse with water on low pressure. If you really want to "WOW" them, you can spray detailing spray on the hoses, plasitics and rubber parts. Just make sure you wipe off excess. My .02 worth.
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:53 AM
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It depends on how well you maintain your engine compartment. The one product I would never use on anything in my truck, car, home, or anywhere is an oil based product such as Armorall. The way I look at it is, if you want to ruin a piece of plastic or rubber, just use armorall. I use a product called More Shine in my engine bay and on my tires and I use DWG products on the rest of my truck. Oil based products with silicone, break down rubber and plastic products over time and when you add heat to the equation, it happens even faster. If you are unlucky enough to get the armorall between the plastic and a chrome plating, well I'm sure some of you have seen what that looks like. Like everyone has said, it's a personnal thing, I'm just speaking from an auto detailer aspect (10 years). After you have cleaned all the oil off a mishap like you had, then you can start detailing. I would have used a product we have called GREEN to first cut the oil off and then used a light rinse and repeat until all oil is gone. Then wipe everything down with microfiber towels. If you have a lift or drive ons I would get the underside too.
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  #15  
Old 01-28-2010, 01:24 AM
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I've taken to 'borrowing' some of our work's Re-NU to detail any and all plastic/rubber. We use it all the time on our rubberized breathing air hoses and all our SCBA/SABA pelican cases. The stuff is amazing, but is a commercial grade so not availiable at your local parts store.
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2010, 01:49 PM
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I detail a few cars a week, the basic engine cleaning goes something like this.

Lightly hose everything in the engine. No need to cover anything as long as your weather seal on fuse box and relay box is good and the covers are on.

Find an old sponge(I usually have one that I use on engines and tires/wheels). Mix up a separate bucket of soap and water (Not to be mixed with soap to wash car). If the engine is really greasy and dirty, use a good dish soap water mixture first. Then finish with standard car was soap.

Wash everything in the engine down with soapy sponge. A cool engine is ideal so you can clean heads and headers ect. Clean everything until you think your pretty much done and your satisfied with how it looks.

Lightly rinse everything in the engine that you cleaned. If you missed any spots grab your sponge and clean em again. Finish up make sure you get all your suds out.

Grab an air compressor and a high pressure nozzle, blow off all the electrical stuff first. Then move on to the other components try to get as much water off as you can with the Air.

Grab an old shop towel and finish drying everything off.

Grab some armor all original and spray down all the plastics, rubbers, hoses weather seals, moldings ect. Using another old towel or some kind absorbent paper towels(blue shop towels work great) Wipe down everything thats has armor all on it to make it have a smooth shine and not drenched.

Let it sit for 10-15 mins while you clean something else or just wait. Then start it up and let it run for 10-15 mins or so. Turn off the AC/Heater blower inside the car and leave the hood open while letting it run. Basically if you got any over spray from armor all on any metals that get hot or missed some suds it will burn it off. It will vent it out rather then driving around getting the smells inside the car.

Thats about it. Hope this helps for everyone.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:44 AM
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Armorall is water based, not oil. It does contain silicone though.
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2010, 12:07 PM
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I prefer Zep Citrus Degreaser from Home Depot diluted 3:1 over Simple Green. Simple Green can screw up your aluminum. I've heard too many horror stories about it to chance it when Zep Citrus costs the exact same and does just as good of a job.

Also, I steer clear of Armor All products (with the exception of the extreme tire shine gel). They all leave a very greasy/oily, shiny finish. First of all, this is a problem because it attracts dirt because it merely sits on top of the plastic/rubber, and dust quickly sticks to it. Also, it just looks very tacky, in my opinion. I want mine to look like it just came from the factory, so I prefer a clean, matte look. I use Aerospace 303 since it is water based and gets absorbed into the plastic/vinyl/rubber instead of sitting on top. Also, Aero 303 has anti-static properties, which is nice. It's kind of hard to find OTC, but I've heard it can sometimes be found at Ace Hardware.

But that's just one man's opinion. To each his own!
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:06 AM
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You can get Aerospace 303 at RV dealers.
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  #20  
Old 09-27-2010, 01:41 AM
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I use Griots Engine cleaners and dressings. Their stuff put moisture back into the rubber and plastic, and it works great on tires.
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