Originally Posted by MADDOG
Anti-Sway and load equalizer hitches are necessary. A brake controller is necessary. Make sure your tire load rating is sufficient to meet your GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).
Look at your manual for your GVWR which is your truck and trailer in combination. That means the weight of the truck and trailer with your passengers, clothes, fuel, water, etc...that you will be packing with you. Don't fixate on towing capacity, be aware of your GVWR so as to avoid damage to the hitch and the truck.
To save some towing weight, unless you are going to a location with no water, don't fill up your fresh water tank until you get to your destination. And also drain it and your black water/grey water tanks before you hit the road home.
Very good advice, but you mean GCWR gross combined weight rating, the GVWR of the truck dictates how much pin weight you could have.
Originally Posted by americon
I have a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi. I'm looking at buying a 29ft pull behind trailer that weighs 6200lbs dry and 8100 GVWR and my truck is good for 8350. I only plan on packing 1000lbs of camping gear in the trailer. I will also have a 600lbs quad in the box of the truck, and the truck/trailer will be equipt with break controller and stablizer hitch. I plan on driving in the mountains from time to time.
Will my truck be able to handle the load? If not what kind of weight should I look at as far as a trailers dry weight?
oh and my payload rating for the truck is 1150lbs and the trailers hitch weight is 912lbs.
Your truck CAN NOT handle that much weight.
A trailer that is 6200 dry will add up fast. Some manufacturer don't include weight of any accesories, propane etc. So as you said 1000lb for gear then water in the tanks 7500lbs would be a fair loaded weight.
8350-7500-600=250lbs so that's all you have left for passengers and other stuff, but then again the hitch assmbly and the sway controller could add up to 200lbs. So unless you tavel alone and only weigh 50lbs'ish you are well over weight.
As for hitch weight, with the weight distribution none of that really matters much, as long as you have at least a class III hitch and the right bars for the tongue weight.
Originally Posted by bamataco
You have been given lots of good advice. The only thing that I can think of to add is that you should consider wind resistance when buying. This can have a very adverse effect on your towing. More aerodynamic trailers will give you a little more gas mileage. And be easier to handle in windy conditions.
Seems like wind has more effect than the weight, with my trailer loaded it doesn't seem to be any heavier to pull than empty, on highway that is, starting from a light you notice a small difference
And as for tire size as mentioned the 20's are about 33" tall and the 17's are about 32" so that makes the difference in the drive ratio.
Best tow capacity is 17" wheels with 3.92 gears, with 20" wheels typically you should minus 1000 lbs rating, part of that is the load rating of the lower profile tires too.