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  #1  
Old 02-13-2010, 11:24 PM
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Default HID questions. help me out!

I just bought a 2010 ram st. I'm looking to put HIDS in....ive heard these trucks can be a bizzitch. i bought a 10000k bixnenon kit which includes a relay harness...im hoping not to have any problems with it once theyre installed...have any of you guys successfully installed HIDs? anybody had trouble? let me know.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:53 AM
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Prepare for problems! I tried the plug-n-play kit. No luck. They told me to add the relay harness. Still no luck! I wrote a forum vendor and still NO LUCK! Im pretty pissed at the moment. They would flicker and then run fine. Flickering is hard on the bulb.
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:43 AM
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Agreed, Prepare for issues. I installed a 6000k set in my low beams and a 4500k in my fog lights. The fog lights work great but the headlamps are an issue. The first time I installed them the headlamps would turn off then on about 4 times and then just turn off because the computer would think there is no bulb and shut the circuit off. Then I put two 1000qF capacitors in with the balasts and now they just turn off then on and run great but the odd time they will flicker and not turn on, ussually it is just a matter of turning them off then back on and they light up and stay on. Not satisfied with that I took the front end apart again and put a relay harness in. The relay harness would do they same thing, but everytime it would just flicker and not turn on but on second activation they would work. Not to mention with the relay harness the truck still thought there was no bulb so the tire pressue light flashed everytime you turned the lights on. So that being even worse I took the relay harness out and am now just running the balast straight off the low beam circuit with a capacitor on each circuit. It works fine this way other then the odd time they don't light up. I can deal with the odd time having to turn them off and back on. I'm still looking for a way to get them working properly but it is a pain having to take the front end apart just to test something.
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:58 AM
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I asked one of the vendors and he told me that they still have issues getting the HIDs to work correctly on the 2009/2010s.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:55 AM
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Agreed, Prepare for issues. I installed a 6000k set in my low beams and a 4500k in my fog lights. The fog lights work great but the headlamps are an issue. The first time I installed them the headlamps would turn off then on about 4 times and then just turn off because the computer would think there is no bulb and shut the circuit off. Then I put two 1000qF capacitors in with the balasts and now they just turn off then on and run great but the odd time they will flicker and not turn on, ussually it is just a matter of turning them off then back on and they light up and stay on. Not satisfied with that I took the front end apart again and put a relay harness in. The relay harness would do they same thing, but everytime it would just flicker and not turn on but on second activation they would work. Not to mention with the relay harness the truck still thought there was no bulb so the tire pressue light flashed everytime you turned the lights on. So that being even worse I took the relay harness out and am now just running the balast straight off the low beam circuit with a capacitor on each circuit. It works fine this way other then the odd time they don't light up. I can deal with the odd time having to turn them off and back on. I'm still looking for a way to get them working properly but it is a pain having to take the front end apart just to test something.
okay, so the most successful route for you was to add a capacitor in with a simple plug and play style? bc, if so, ima just try that until a more dependable route comes along....this is so strange to me cuz i actually sell HIDS...ive installed over 50 kits and never encountered a situation like this. lol. i absolutely dont want to drive a vehicle that doesnt have HIDS either so i hafta make it happen....btw...do you have the two beam setup? or the four beam setup? cuz i got the two beam h13 headlight.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:40 PM
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I have the four headlight set-up but electrically it is the same. Your correct the most succesful way I could get it to work was with a 1000qF capacitor wired in parallel with each ballast. Atleast this way they work 95% of the time, the odd time either one or both will just flicker and turn off. But, if you turn them off and back on they ussually light right up and stay on just fine. I have a couple more ideas I want to try but I need the time to get around to trying them. I'll let you know if I find a more succesful route.
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cormacs View Post
I have the four headlight set-up but electrically it is the same. Your correct the most succesful way I could get it to work was with a 1000qF capacitor wired in parallel with each ballast. Atleast this way they work 95% of the time, the odd time either one or both will just flicker and turn off. But, if you turn them off and back on they ussually light right up and stay on just fine. I have a couple more ideas I want to try but I need the time to get around to trying them. I'll let you know if I find a more succesful route.
awesome. my next question is, where did you buy these capacitors? link me to a similar product if you can. i wanna order what i need ASAP......also have any of you guys had any problem using LED lights in like the liscense plate lights, dome lights, etc?
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:04 PM
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also....is it not true that the reason why HIDs give so much trouble in the rams is that the PCM is reading a 35 watt HID as opposed to a standard 55 watt bulb? and if so...what would happen if i tried plug and playing a 55 watt HID kit? has anyone tried that yet?
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:34 AM
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It's not the wattage of the ballast that's the issue. It's the completly different resistance of the ballast. Sure the ballast is 55watts but while running it has different resistance values. The TIPM monitors the bulb and wants to see a certain value. The headlights of the ram are duty cyled, so this means that the computer is turning the headlights off and on like 50 times a second. I don't know what the exact value is but it turns off and on so quick that you don't see it. The reason it does this is for diagnostics, there are other reasons in other cars to duty cycle the lights, but as far as are trucks are concerned it's for diagnostics. Everytime the computer turns the feed off to the bulb it actually sends 5 volts out on a diagnostic resistor. It can diagnose three conditions this way, A short to ground, an open, or a short to voltage. It can see a short to ground because if it was shorted that 5 volts would go right to 0, it can tell an open if the 5 volts stays at 5 volts, and finally it can tell there is a short to voltage if that 5 volts goes higher then 5. It is all doing this like 60 times a second. So finally if the ballast doesn't have the right resistance the computer wont see the voltage coming back it wants to see and it will actually set an open code and think tht the bulb is burnt out. The capacitor tricks the computer because every time it turns off to do the diagnostics it changes the resistance a little bit. I can't ffind you a picture of the resistor, I just went to an electronics store and picked them up. Convienently they come in a package of two for 3 bucks.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cormacs View Post
It's not the wattage of the ballast that's the issue. It's the completly different resistance of the ballast. Sure the ballast is 55watts but while running it has different resistance values. The TIPM monitors the bulb and wants to see a certain value. The headlights of the ram are duty cyled, so this means that the computer is turning the headlights off and on like 50 times a second. I don't know what the exact value is but it turns off and on so quick that you don't see it. The reason it does this is for diagnostics, there are other reasons in other cars to duty cycle the lights, but as far as are trucks are concerned it's for diagnostics. Everytime the computer turns the feed off to the bulb it actually sends 5 volts out on a diagnostic resistor. It can diagnose three conditions this way, A short to ground, an open, or a short to voltage. It can see a short to ground because if it was shorted that 5 volts would go right to 0, it can tell an open if the 5 volts stays at 5 volts, and finally it can tell there is a short to voltage if that 5 volts goes higher then 5. It is all doing this like 60 times a second. So finally if the ballast doesn't have the right resistance the computer wont see the voltage coming back it wants to see and it will actually set an open code and think tht the bulb is burnt out. The capacitor tricks the computer because every time it turns off to do the diagnostics it changes the resistance a little bit. I can't ffind you a picture of the resistor, I just went to an electronics store and picked them up. Convienently they come in a package of two for 3 bucks.
very useful info. you really know your shit. lol. thanks for that. and have you had any trouble with LED accessory lights?
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