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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #1  
Old 04-17-2010, 06:19 PM
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Default Upgrading to 1/0 Gauge wiring in engine

This may seem a bit unorthodox but I thought I would post what I plan on doing to my engine in my 06 5.7 HEMI engine.

Basically this is the deal: I put in a ~2400w sound system a while ago, and they put a 1/0 gauge lead on my battery to power my amps. Mind you I only have 2x Boston G2 10" subs, but when they hit when my volume is @ about 1/3 cap, all my interior lights and headlights dim.

This is actually kinda badass in my opinion but i want to fix it.


So what i was planning on doing was this:

Replace the wire from the alternator to the battery + with 0 gauge
Replace the wire from the fuse box to the battery + with 0 gauge
Also, Replace both the battery grounds from the battery - to the engine block and the chassis.

A friend of mine did this to his '02 silverado after he put in a 1000w power inverter that when used caused the same problem i was having. His mod fixed the problem.


My theory is that if i switch out the stock 8 gauge wire from the alt to the battery, to a 0 gauge wire, that i would get more raw energy throughput to my battery and help prevent those energy spikes from my subs that are effecting my lighting.

I know this sounds a little nuts, but other than this the only solution I have is upgrade my Alternator, and that's way more expensive. Right now i have the stock alt (which is ~130 amps if i'm right)

Pictures are attached, the large blue wire is my 0 gauge speaker lead
Alternator pic, replacing the red wire from Alt + to battery +
Fuse Box pic, replacing the red wire in the picture with 0 gauge from battery + to fuse box +
Battery pic 1, Replacing the bottom 2 black wires with 0 gauge grouds to the engine block and chassis
Battery pic 2, battery specs for reference


Any feedback would be awsome, thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2010-04-17 14.48.51.jpg (94.6 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 2010-04-17 14.49.12.jpg (95.0 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 2010-04-17 14.49.39.jpg (93.0 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 2010-04-17 14.49.52.jpg (92.2 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 2010-04-17 14.50.02.jpg (92.2 KB, 18 views)
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2010, 03:22 PM
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Have you thought of installing a capacitor? They store power so you won't get the power spikes that dim your lights.
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2010, 03:27 PM
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A capacitor helps a lot! I have about a 2000w system in my truck and I have no problems. I also have HIDs in the headlights and fogs which also draw power and I never seen a problem.

Get a capacitor a good one and you should be fine.

If not then what you want to do will be the next best thing
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Old 04-18-2010, 06:58 PM
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Didn't think of getting a capacitor, anyone know where to get a good one?

And what correct specs and such will I need?
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:19 AM
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Default

I've never put on a capacitor but I have looked into it because I plan on doing a system in my truck. I used Crutchfield for all my speakers and stuff like that. Good service and reasonable prices with quick shipping.

Here is some info from Crutchfield.com on capacitors:

The rule of thumb on capacitor size used by most manufacturers is 1 Farad per 1,000 watts (RMS). Using this as your guide, then you would use

* a .5 Farad capacitor for systems up to 500 watts
* a 1 Farad capacitor for systems up to 1,000 watts
* a 2 Farad capacitor for systems up to 2,000 watts

Another thing to note on this topic is that you can't really add too much capacitance to your system, so it's safe to overshoot the guidelines. If you wanted to add three 1 Farad capacitors to a 1,000 watt system, it would not be a problem.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Suppo...ifs=capacitors

Hope this helps out some.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:34 AM
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Thanks man, my main concern was upgrading my BATTERY to FUSE BOX with 1/0 gauge wire, I dont want to overload the fuse box by my battery pushing too much power through the larger wire.

I already have the wire so I'm trying to save some money by not buying a capacitor.

Thanks again for the info
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:49 AM
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where did you get the cabling and how did you do the ends..this is exactly what I want to do on mine..
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:40 PM
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@ Chefed112, I bought the cables at a place called MarVac Electronics, It's in Huntington Beach, California (where I live) but since I don't know where you live ill give you the next best thing, there is an online ebay store that sells Stinger wire, they make very good wiring and sell 1/0 Gauge for about $4 a foot I think (not including shipping etc.)

1/0 Gauge wire

There is the link, they sell a bunch of different kinds but I would get red sleeved for the + and Black for the - . This makes the most sense to me and also helps people out who work on your engine what you did to it, don't want to electrocute people lol.

And for the connection method I used 1/0 Gauge Ring Terminals, seen as the shiny silver connection on the pic with the huge blue wire on it (that my power lead to my speaker system)

Those terminals are kinda hard to find, at least the kind i want, so I'm just going to go the place that did my speaker system and buy some from them.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2010, 05:51 PM
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Ah yes, the "Big Three" upgrade. Good idea. You don't have to switch out the stock wiring though. Just add it to the factory setup for even more juice transfer.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:54 PM
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thanks for the info bro...I'll check at the more serious local electronics/audio stores here and then maybe the link you posted...fred
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