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  #11  
Old 05-11-2010, 02:29 PM
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Default Fuel Pump ?????

I have a '98 Dodge Ram 4x4 5.2L with 214,000 miles. You have a '99. I am going to assume for sake of argument that you have the factory original fuel pump and that your truck has well over 100,000 miles. Point 1: Trucks and Cherokees from this time period are known to have issues with the check valve in the electric fuel pump at about 100,000 miles if not sooner. My friend at work had a Cherokee with this issue. The purpose of the check valve is to hold fuel line pressure. This is why when you start up a truck with fuel injection it instantly roars to life with very little engine cranking. My friend's Cherokee would have to turn over like a half dozen times before it would start. Point 2: My factory original electric fuel pump died at 165,000 miles. I was told that they don't normally last that long. Dodge sells a kit to repair the check valve. But wouldn't it be smarter to put in a new electric fuel pump if you can afford to go that way? Nobody likes to take gas tanks in and out of vehicles. Something to think about.

Last edited by Quiet Lunatic; 05-11-2010 at 02:32 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2010, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverino View Post
I have a '98 Dodge Ram 4x4 5.2L with 214,000 miles. You have a '99. I am going to assume for sake of argument that you have the factory original fuel pump and that your truck has well over 100,000 miles. Point 1: Trucks and Cherokees from this time period are known to have issues with the check valve in the electric fuel pump at about 100,000 miles if not sooner. My friend at work had a Cherokee with this issue. The purpose of the check valve is to hold fuel line pressure. This is why when you start up a truck with fuel injection it instantly roars to life with very little engine cranking. My friend's Cherokee would have to turn over like a half dozen times before it would start. Point 2: My factory original electric fuel pump died at 165,000 miles. I was told that they don't normally last that long. Dodge sells a kit to repair the check valve. But wouldn't it be smarter to put in a new electric fuel pump if you can afford to go that way? Nobody likes to take gas tanks in and out of vehicles. Something to think about.
The pressure will bleed down over the course of a few hours. The main point in the valve is to retain the fuel in the lines. The fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when the key is switched on in order to rebuild lost pressure.
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2010, 05:02 PM
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I understand what you are saying Randy, but I was under the impression the IAC mostly functioned for controlling the cold air intake when the truck first starts up. Kinda like the old auto choke controls on carburetors. That's why I have always heard that the first thing to look at with a cold start problem was the IAC.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2010, 05:06 PM
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It controls idle speed at all times, not just during cold starts.
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:46 AM
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You all have given some great things for me to look at, it starts fine, its just after a few seconds of running that it begins to run rough, and when you accelarate is when it sputters and hesitates, I replaced the battery, only because it needed to be done the other was 6 yrs old, for some reason its doesn't seem as bad, but maybe it's only a coincidence.

Thanks for the help, I'll look at these ideas

Mike
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2010, 10:30 PM
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I had the same problem, after cleaning my distributor cap and rotor button and regapped my plugs it solved the hesitation on acceleration. This also cut out alot of my sputtering issue on start up. it happens every once in a while now but quickly clears itself up. Keep in mind I only cleaned and not replaced these items. The Distributor is a pain to get to, it's located at the rear of the engine under the firewall lip. I had to remove the purge vavle located on the drivers side of the engine and the breather ofcourse. have patience and I think you will be happy with the results afterwards. Keep in mind I replaced my IAC, TPS, purge valve, and map sensor just find out all I needed to do was clean the distributor cap and rotor button. Also pay close attention to how your plug wires are routed and be sure not to let them cross each other or lay over on the exhaust manifolds.
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2010, 12:53 PM
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had a 96 5,9 that did that sputter on start, fuel pump going bad .
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:10 PM
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I found the problem, I was the upstream O2 sensor, running great now, thanks
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  #19  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:26 PM
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Sounds like I'm having the same problem with my 98 Ram 5.9 L. It starts fine, and ever since I changed the sparks it idles good too with only the occasional rpm rev. When I drive it cold though it bucks and sputters real bad on acceleration. I flushed the coolant which I was told by a mechanic that it could have something to do with it, but it didn't stop the problem. When I changed the sparks I did notice that they were black with some oxidization, got me thinking maybe fuel injection? When the truck warms up, the problem goes away and the truck drives like it should. I am new at this and just stabbing at it in the dark. Is it necessary to change the fuel pump, or can the check valve be checked and replaced?
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