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  #1  
Old 05-16-2010, 09:05 PM
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Default Swirl Question

Hey Guy!

I have a question about swirl marks. I just used my right hand polisher today for the first time, for about 5hrs haha. I used a rubbing compound followed by wax. I noticed that I had some swirls after the rubbing compound I figured the was would take care of it. It did for the most part but there are some swirls still left.

No how do you avoid making swirls with the poliher???I tried my hardest to go even and in the same direction. What is the cause of swirl marks from the polisher??

I guess I can use a wax again to get rid of the swirl right??
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2010, 10:58 PM
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The swirls are caused by the abrasives in the rubbing compound, the swirls are small scratches in the clearcoat. Wax only covers up the swirl marks, the only way to virtually eliminate the swirl marks is to use progressively finer cutting compounds. I would try using a swirl remover, I use the Meguiars Speed Glaze or Swirl Free Polish which is available at many autobody supply stores. I would advise against using any product that is labelled as a rubbing compound as many of these products are simply a tub of abrasives with various solvents. Most quality products that are designed for surface correction are marketed as a cutting compound or paint cleaner which contain abrasive compounds which break down during the application process.

The best way to examine the condition of the clearcoat prior to wax application is to wipe a small area with isopropanol alcohol to see how the surface looks without any polishes etc. The surface should look fairly smooth, nearly as good as you would expect after applying wax. It is important to remember that wax is primarily designed to protect the surface not to enhance the appearance.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:52 AM
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Rubbing compounds are rarely used for detailing, they are for paint inperfections (from a body shop), fadeing (on older cars without a clearcoat) or scratches. Anyone who takes reasonable care of their automobile should never have to use an abrasive compound. Hopefully your swirl marks are not that deep and are reversable, always use caution when buffing. It is a true art, and it is very easy to ruin the finish on a car or truck without a lot of experiance.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:29 PM
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I will be bringing my truck to a detail shop to take care of it. I did not think it would be a problem since it seemed like it was not a bad product. It seemed like an easy product to use from Meguires.

I do not think it is a big deal I believe a detail shop should be able to fix it.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:23 PM
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Being black makes it worse, if you can find a professional auto paint supply center in your area 3M makes a real fine or finishing compound and also a swirl mark remover.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:28 PM
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I talked with a guy from a detail shop I told him what happend. He told me it was probably the pad I used on the polisher. I used the rough pad with the rubbing compound. He told me to use the rubbing compound I had by hand and it should get rid of everything. I am going to try that before going to spend a bunch of money.

I was thinking of getting the paint protection done at the dealership. has anyone done this yet??? They do a high speed polish first and then add 3-4 layers of the paint protection on. It should get rid of everything on the paint and also protect it longer. Had anyone done this??????
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Performance- DS Predator w/91oct Tune, Gibson CB, BFI CAI, E-Cutout, Jet Stream Scoop, 180 Tstat, Optima Yellow Top.
Suspension-12"Lift, 6" Fabtech Lift w/ Steering Stabilizers & Dirt Logic Shocks, Bilstein 5100s, Oasis Ram Head Diff Cover, 3" PA Body Lift, SSBC Big Brake Kit
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:37 PM
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Do not do the paint protection, it is just a wax that costs a lot of money..
And you take such good care of your truck I am sure you have something better hanging around in your garage to use already.
Wish I were closer, I would enjoy helping you out.
Also take a pic of your bicepts after you hand buff your truck and post'em.. It's a great workout, I learned that the hard way !
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:40 PM
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hahaha I know man! I did a paste wax before and really put some elbow grease into it. That took me like 5hrs straight just to wax it. I was dead after that. I am planning on doing this in sections.

I will do half the truck tomorrow after work and then the other half the next day. I will do the compound by hand then wax by hand.

I AM SO PISSED IT DID NOT WORK OUT!!! I have to do it twice in one week! Oh man hahahaaha
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Performance- DS Predator w/91oct Tune, Gibson CB, BFI CAI, E-Cutout, Jet Stream Scoop, 180 Tstat, Optima Yellow Top.
Suspension-12"Lift, 6" Fabtech Lift w/ Steering Stabilizers & Dirt Logic Shocks, Bilstein 5100s, Oasis Ram Head Diff Cover, 3" PA Body Lift, SSBC Big Brake Kit
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Exterior- 20" Moto Metal 951, 40" BFG KM2s, N-Fab W2W Black Side Steps, Recon Black Headlights & Tails+3rd Brake Light & Light Bar, Hella 500s, T-Rex X-Metal Black 1pc Grille, Tints All Around, Painted Bushwacker Pocket Flares & Door Handles & Mirrors, LoRider Tonneau Cover, Hornblasters Train Horns, Iron Bull Bumper w/PIAA Fog & Driving Lights
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:44 PM
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I would try a finishing compound, keep your pad clean I bet it would work and be a lot faster.. No need to wax after either. Are your pads sponge or cloth ?
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:47 PM
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Polishing compound is what you should use . It's not as harsh .
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