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  #11  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:15 AM
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I have to agree, excellent writeup with pics, and although like Kurtis, I won't be tackling this, either, thanks for taking the time to put it all together!

- Cajun
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:55 PM
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I did this wiring upgrade on my last car (06 scion tC) and it made the car idle ALOT smoother and run smoother. 1/0 guage wire isn't cheap, but a smoother idling engine is worth it to me. Thats not even including the audio system advantages. Thanks for doing a great write up to make it even easier for me to do when i get the chance!
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:15 PM
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the fuseable link acts just like a fuse but can't be esialy replaced like one as if the voltage running through it gets to high the wire over heats and melts to cut current which helps prevent fires, usually the fusable link is 2 sizes smaller then the accual wire you use.
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:14 PM
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also have to add that the fusible link melts slower so that it doesn't just melt if you have a sudden voltage spike like a fuse will if your going to add in a fusable link match the lenght of the original one and be careful when sodering it inline as to much heat will melt it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:20 AM
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Update: fixed up a few of the pictures, had some linking problems on some of them
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:44 PM
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Nicely done man ... u can also just run an inline fuse before the battery from the charge wire if u dont want to hassle running back to the fuse block. Im using a 150 amp fuse there seeing i just have the stock alternator.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:30 AM
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sorry i shoulda posted this early the only time i would reccoment fusing the charge line is if your running a high output alternator. Although even then its just an extra safety precaution for those guys running very high current im talking proly 10000 watts plus and when u get into that range ur gonna be running multiple alternators and batterys.
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:11 PM
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Great write up. I never liked crimping, but soldering large guage wires is a pain. It is better for the conductivity though and keeps any chance of a loosening crimp from happening.

As you know, over time with heating and cooling crimps can become loose or even fall out. This may eventually lead to a "high-open" that will only occur when your vehicle wiring gets warm. May want to just go back and solder the connections.

Great pics and write up! REP added...
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:02 AM
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So i am going to tackle this job this weekend. my question is this. Seeing the fusible link is being replaced with normal wire i am opting for an inline fuse and from what i have seen thats what most do. now with that being said the stock alternator puts out what 136 amps, so what size inline fuse should be used, 150 amp? I will also be bumping up the alternator to a 240 amp in the near future but i will figure out what fuse to use for that later, 250 amp maybe?

Last edited by JDJohnson9; 05-03-2011 at 04:12 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2011, 12:01 AM
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Thanks for the write up and the pics. This is gonna help. Im gonna go get the cable this week, and have a shop crimp the ends. I will then solder them myself and then add the shrink tubing.
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