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Heating & Cooling 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #31  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:41 PM
Alfisto Steve Alfisto Steve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrmobile View Post
I have this same problem on my '03. Most of the time it works fine, but when on long trips on the interstate with cruise set, it will all of the sudden stop blowing air through the vents. If you sit at idle for a few minutes, it goes back to normal function. I am thinking maybe I have a vacuum leak? I'm not familiar to this system so I don't know if it is even a vacuum run system... Any ideas anyone?

Thanks,
Mike
Turns out I am not home free on this vac tank/non-vac tank issue as my new used 2000 Ram still shut off a/c dash ducts under heavy acel today.

I may have to install an /Alfa Romeo 164 vac tank inline at firewall to combat this issue.

Don't make me go Un_American guys, tell me where the darm vac tank is located on this 2K Ram.
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  #32  
Old 07-18-2011, 09:26 PM
BgHrn BgHrn is offline
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Where can you get JUST the recirculating door? I called my local Dodge dealer and you can't buy JUST the door, you have to buy the whole box/door together. My recirculating door broke and was sitting on top of my blower motor.
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  #33  
Old 07-25-2011, 08:33 PM
charger fan charger fan is offline
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Default a/c does not blow hard, but does blow cold

Just bought a 2004 Rumble Bee. It blows cold air, but not very hard. I adjust the selector switch to all speeds and i can hear it change in power level, but the amount of air doesn't seem to change coming out of the vents. also, when adjusting the air direction to my feet, or face, it doesn't seem to redirect the air either. any suggestions out there? thanx in advance
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  #34  
Old 09-28-2011, 01:12 AM
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cntbill cntbill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stage1 View Post
I just did this, took me less then 10 mins!! Just as BlueLineRam said: The foam door was lying loose, just pulled it out and everything is working like new!!! This is a great tip!!! Thank you!!
Just got done doing this tonight using a flashlight and it really only took minutes. Thanks All
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2016, 09:14 AM
Twice Pipes Twice Pipes is offline
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Co-worker has this problem on his 2008. I popped out the fan and pulled out the door but still not blowing very hard from the vents. While the fan motor was out I checked the different speeds and it seemed to blow with good strength. When mounted though it blows just a little over an ooze of cool air. It is like something is restricted whether in the floor, dash or defrost. Could there be anything else to check before replacing what seems to be a good motor? Maybe the motor just does not blow hard under pressure and spins more efficiently when not mounted?
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  #36  
Old 07-28-2016, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olsarge View Post
mother F**********. wow this blows I have had the truck for 2 months I think my dad got the better end of the trade some times...but regardless I heard mopar has a kit to fix this specific issue is that the best way to go or just buy it from a parts house? also any part numbers would be a great help
Wait! There are access ports!!!! I found them when doing the airbag recall (dealer let me do it in their lot, funny enough my igniter was one of the few good ones.)

Remove the airbag and you can get to all the door motors
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  #37  
Old 07-31-2016, 09:42 AM
ExChev ExChev is offline
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I had this same issue with my 2006. Fan motor blew like crazy but very little air from the vents. After a google search I discovered this is a very common problem with these trucks. So I pulled out the glove box door and then removed the fan motor. Sure enough, the blend door was lying on top of the fan blocking about 90% of the air. The end of the hinge was broken and the piece was lying in the heater box.

Did some checking and Dorman does make a replacement (didn't bother calling the dealer) but it was $70 up here in Canada. So, being a cheap (and broke) SOB, I decided to try gluing the piece back on. All I had in the house was a tube of Crazy Glue do I used that, let it set up overnight, then put it back in. Held together for about 2 twists of the fresh/recirc knob then broke again. Ok, so Crazy Glue was a bad idea. Time for plan B.

So, I picked up some plastic epoxy with a 3500psi rating and reglued it with that. Not wanting to do this again, I also drilled 2 small holes and wrapped some thin mechanics wire around the hinge as a little added support. Waited another 24 hours for it to set up good, then reinstalled. Been a week and I've been turning it from fresh to recirc a lot to test it. So far so good.

A couple of tips: when taking out the broken door, turn it toward the firewall. There's enough space there to allow you to tip it downward and remove it through the fan opening. I've heard of people cutting out the grill in the heater box but that's really not necessary.
You will need a stubby phillips screwdriver to remove the actuator motor on the side of the box. There's a small white piece that connects to it and goes through the side of the box and into the hinge of the door. You'll need to squeeze the tabs on it inside the box to get it out. The other end of the hinge just fits into a hole on the right side. To reinstall, just fit that end into place, line up the hole on the other side, and push the white connector piece back into the hinge.

It took me about 30 minutes to take it apart and reassemble it the second time. It took longer the first time I did it but now I know how it comes apart and it's actually not a bad repair (if you don't mind standing on your head under the dash). Hopefully this helps a few people out.
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