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Suspension 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Suspension Problems and Questions

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Old 07-21-2010, 12:21 PM
latitud's Avatar
latitud latitud is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southwest VA
Age: 44
Posts: 575
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2010 Dodge Ram
Trim Level: SLT
Color: Deep Water Pearl
Rep Power: 6
latitud will become famous soon enough
Default Rancho RS5000 installed

2003 4x4:
Well because this truck originally came from New York, an hour job turned into 4.5 hours and a few chioce words.
Started on the fronts:
bottom bolts is supposed to be 100 ft/lbs but I guess the rust locked it into place and I pounded it with an impact and lots of PB and was finally able to get it out. The top was ridiculous as the nut was so rusted to the shock that I eventually ended up cutting the nut and beating it off with a hammer. The RS5000 that I was installing surprised me in the fact that they have no nitrogen fill and therefore they do not uncompress on their own...this was a first for me. They include new upper hardware and you resuse the bottom bolt so make sure while you have the shock off that you chase the treads and clean them up before installing the new shock. Simply put the boot over the shock and then install the top hardware and tighten the top nut down pretty far. The final torque is 40 ft/lbs and that will compress the rubber bushings way down almost outside the washer. All you need to do at this point is put the nut on to hold the shock in place. You will have to pull the shock down to get the bottom bolt in. Now this is where things are a little odd. I made sure to get the "stock" ride height shock which is RS5282. When the truck is jacked up and the tire is in the unloaded position, the mounting bolt is about 1/2" lower than the maximum extension of the shock. This concerns me and I am thinking that if I had it to do over again, I would get the RS5373 which is for 1" to 2" lift. I am not real comfortable thinking that the maximum stroke of the shock is the stop for the full suspension travel. Time will tell. So you basically have to raise the tire slightly to get the bottom bolt to line up. Finger start the bolt and final torque to 100 ft/lbs. Now tighten the top nut to the final torque of 40 ft/lbs using a crows foot on your torque wrench. One very nice item on these shocks is that you can push the top of the boot down and there is a 3/4" nut that you use to hold the shaft from spinning while you torque the mounting nut.

Now for the back:
I used RS5474 and this fits stock height or 1" to 2" ride height. Again the fact that this was a New York truck, the bolts were frozen in place and lots of PB was used to finally break them loose. The bottom nuts are 21mm and you need a 21mm wrench to hold the bolt in place. It took no less than 20 minutes hammering on it with an impact to finally get it to break loose. The top is 21mm and you have to remove the bolt and hold the nut (kinda opposite of what is normal). You access the bolt directly behind the tire on top of the frame. Another hour and lots of PB and I got it to break loose. The bolts came right out with a little help of the hammer. The rear shocks do not uncompress either so you have to twist them slightly and then pull it to extend it. The boot is extremely hard to put over the top mounting part of the shock so take your time. Once the boot is in place, you simply mount the shock with the boot at the top. I reused all the factory hardware and final torqued to 100 ft/lbs. Repeat for the other side.

On a side note: use lots of anti-seize so the next time it will be much easier. ( yep I said anti-seize, but thats another thread within )

Sorry so long, but I hope it helps.
And I didn't remove any tires to put the shocks on, just turned the wheel for access.
2010 Dodge Ram, 5.7 Hemi, Crew Cab
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