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Washing & Waxing Washing and Waxing your Dodge Ram! Talk about it here!


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  #11  
Old 07-23-2010, 06:50 AM
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dtownkcufo dtownkcufo is offline
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WOW! That you made the sled do a complete 180! Great work!
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:22 AM
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Nice work on the car! I am going to have to learn about all those products mentioned here and try if its possible to do what you do My engine bay is horrible lol

~Mike
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2010, 07:25 AM
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My engine bay could use some work, also! I am so much better about keeping everything else clean, don't know why that part seems so daunting.

- Cajun
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2010, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhkr View Post
Looks real good! What polisher did you use, PC7424xp, GGROP, ?
PC7424XP, LC Hydrotech 5.5" Cyan, LC Hydrotech 4" Cyan, LC Hydrotech 5.5" Tangerine, LC Hydrotech 4" Tangerine. Wax was applied by hand on a microfiber applicator.

Quote:
Next time you wax her, try Natty's Red wax or WG Fuzion. That'll make that paint just POP.
Nah, I have enough quality waxes that look just as good and cost less, but thanks

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Don't you just love the tape preping. It's my favorite part.
Nope, sucks.

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Just curious, how'd you like using M105. I find it has AWESOME cut power, specially with thos LCHT pads (my personal favs) however M105 has SUPER short work time, lots of dust is usually created.
M105 worked great. Using the Kevin Brown method with a little additional methodology imployed, it can finish down very well with less dust than traditional methods. I made two passes in each section which gave desired results.

Quote:
M205 is probably my favorite mild cut compound. Never had any issues with it. Good work time on it too.
Works great, easy to use, there is really nothing wrong with it. The only qualm could be the amount of oils found in the polish. If you do not use a prep wash solution or multiple IPA passes you could find yourself with improper bonding, holograms, or other issues down the road.

Quote:
I havn't decided if I want to switch to the WolfGang brothers for my next detail or just stick with what I have. I'm definatly going to swtich from Natty's Blue to either WG Fuzion, WGDG 3.0, or Pinnacle's Sig II. Either way it's fun to mess around with different products to get different results.
I do have WGDG 3.0, but in all reality, the wax is a fraction of a percent of the looks a vehicle has. 90% is the actual paint correction and polishing. I did however test a few waxes to see which one I prefered on my details.

In this test, I have 5 of the Waxes/Sealants that I presently own [of about 10 different ones] being tested, including

Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845

I find this wax to be extremely easy to apply. After I have owned it for nearly 6 months and kept it at room temperature and transfered it to my 8oz dispensing bottle, it has retained a warm butter consistency. It spread very easily and removal is quite easy as well. After 24 hours of application and spraying the surface, the water forms into small circular beads. When greater quantities of water is sprayed, the beads collide and run off leaving the surface almost completely bare, even without flooding. In comparison to the unprotected surface next to it, it is actually noticeably darker and deeper. Under the right conditions the difference could probably be caught in a picture.

Collinite Super Doublecoat Auto Wax No. 476S

This wax is very hard. Even being kept in warm storage the wax is still rock hard. After moving the foam applicator over the surface in swiping motions, the wax melts onto the pad and can be easily applied. Per the collinite website: "The 845 and 476s are made with the same ingredients, but the 476s lasts longer due to the fact that it has a higher concentration of natural and synthetic waxes. This is why the 476s is tougher to work with. The 845 has been Collinite’s overall best seller for 20 years due to the fact that it has excellent durability combined with an ease of use." This is exemplified through the use of both waxes. 476 is much harder to use in comparison to 845, but still not difficult. When spraying the surface, the water forms beads. Unlike 845, 476 likes to stay in beads instead of sheeting like 845 did when water was sprayed heavily on it.

Optimum Car Wax

An extremely user friendly wax, OCW can be applied by spraying the surface and wiping it off with a microfiber towel. The surface reminds me of a waxed, then QD'd finish. Because I have other waxes that are applied in a more traditional sense, I like to use OCW over existing waxes to boost the protection and looks. OCW creates beads on the surface which are a little larger than beads formed by the Collinite products. I am still testing the durability, but since i have began using it a month ago, the protection is still remaining.

Optimum Opti-Seal

Probably the easiest sealant to use. Just wipe on and walk away. It is hard to not use too much product with OOS. Just remove any excess OOS with a MF if you can see streaks. OOS creates uniform, larger beads that sheet off when on vertical or angled surfaces. I have not tested OOS without topping it with OCW, but I hope to see how the looks and performances differ.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

I received this for free from a contest. It is considered a quality sealant and I am hoping to find out how well it performs. DGPS is a little harder to apply than the other waxes or sealants and a little harder to remove. In terms of ease, it was not as nice as the others. It did not sheet as well as OOS, but hopefully the durability will shine through. The beads on horizontal surfaces were fairly large as well.

Pictures

My entire truck had OCW on it from last months wash/wax. Still holding up on the drivers side door.


Stripped the wax from the hood :biggrin:


The surface was clayed a few months ago and has had an LSP on it since. To strip the wax, I used TW Liquid Clay bar [found it in the cabinets]. Then rinsed the surface and sprayed with a diluted degreaser and washed the surface with ONR to wash it all off. I then gave it an IPA wipedown before applying the waxes and sealants.

The 5 next to each other.
845, OOS, 476, DGPS, OCW
The outsides were split with the tape, the middle 3 were separated by the body lines


This first shot has lightly misted water on the surface, you can see the differences in the products.


Another similar shot with added contrast. It helped to define the different sections. There was more water added to the surface, enough so some surface began to run while other held the water.


Collinite 845


Beads with beads of air in them.


Here are two waxes demostrating the contrast in color from an unprotected to a protected surface. Both are collinite.





I have since added Collinite #915 which is a beauty wax that looks fantastic.


Quote:
You did a fabulous job! WTG!
Thank you! Lots of research and practicing
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2010, 09:43 PM
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Nice review on those products. I may just have to give that 845 a try next time I'm doing my supply ordering.
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  #16  
Old 07-23-2010, 10:03 PM
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Super nice work!
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2010, 01:55 PM
Leadfootluke Leadfootluke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhkr View Post
Nice review on those products. I may just have to give that 845 a try next time I'm doing my supply ordering.
It is not going to look the same as your high end pinnacle or PB or natty in the sense that it is a hybrid sealant and wax so it will shine versus the glow/wetness that waxes offer. It does however last very long, is detergent proof, and does not stain trim, so I have found it extremely useful on plastic window trim/mouldings/etc.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2010, 09:57 PM
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That's why I like Natty's Blue. NO STAINING!!! I just have fun trying different products from time to time. But I also go through a lot of product too.
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  #19  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:32 PM
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Excellent results!! I might give some of your products a try. Right now my favorite is Zanio. I've gotten excellent results using their products(if you can afford the shipping costs--LOL)
Jay
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  #20  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:41 PM
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Wow! That looks great!
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