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  #11  
Old 08-03-2010, 08:17 AM
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it hasnt been easy, last night i got the exhaust manifolds on, but the two studs in the middle striped out on new heads, which worry me, because you have to thread seal them, just in case the hole got too close to the cooling tube or whatever you want to call it, so im going to find a corse thread stud and re tap the hole and then tread seal. shit pissed me off.

here so more pics that didnt pull of the camera yesterday.

the blow apart rod is why i had to do what im doing. i was only going 70 when it let loose.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:00 AM
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all most ready to get back in the truck.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:17 AM
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lookin good! keep us posted
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  #14  
Old 08-05-2010, 12:48 PM
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You've done a hell of a job so far . Looks great . Tell us more about the motor , stock rebuild or has it been warmed up a bit . How did you make out on the stripped out bolt holes in the head ? Some rep for ya also .
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:17 PM
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now its not a stock build, i got valve cut Keith Black 9.5:1 compression pistons but was told by the people who make KB, ill be closer to 9.8 to 1. ill have to do a compression test when im done, one thing is for sure it will never see 87 octane again. , scat I beam rods, and CLEVITE 77 bearings, for mains, rods and cams, high flow oil pump, and arp studs for the bottom, arp bolts for the head, other than that all is stock replacement parts. i just really wanted to build a nice strong bottom end, best part, rods a pistons supposedly weight less, i didnt compare weights, since i didnt take out the old one out of the cracked block.

the damn head where brand new, new studs, and when the striped out i was pissed. so i went to Autozone, got 3/8"-16 x1" course thread bolt, since i couldnt find studs, i drilled on the holes with a 5/16" bit, then re-tapped the holes for the bolt i bought, took a magnet to the holes to remove all metal shavings, oh use the new royal purple spray lube they have to cut the new threads. used the high temp lock-tight, two reasons i went with that, its not a real strong hold, so when i get my headers i can put studs back in, two its what is suggested to use around water.

thanks for the rep.

hughes engines also have been a great help, its where i bought most of my parts and some tech advise. All the other parts form summit, they where the only ones to have a cam and lifter set for under 400 bucks.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:09 PM
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Just make sure the exhaust bolt is sealed , if it goes all the way into the coolant passages .
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:16 PM
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looks like you are doing a fantastic job.lots of work but it will be well worth it.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:32 PM
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Looks real good, nice job! Can't wait to see it back in the truck! Just one thing are you planing on painting the engine?
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  #19  
Old 08-09-2010, 09:37 AM
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the block and heads are painted silver, which i like, i plan of replacing the intake later, so i didnt feel the need to paint it, the pumps mounting brackets might it powder coated later.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:39 AM
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its done, but i think i have a bad wire or plug, which are new, but i went cheap, because i had too, Ill be testing the resistance tonight, ill be moving back to Virginia beach this weekend and i have a really good friend with full shop and dyno connection, its has a stumble and what feels like a miss fire, but doesnt idle funny, its does have 9month old gas, but i added a bottle of Lucas to it, so this payday it will get a full tank of 93 octane. no leaks on the studs i replaced. so very happy its running and started on the first crank, sorry about the rambling, i cant wait to blow this two horse town.

heres the rest of the pic.
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